Delaware Valley Tackle

Depends completely on the sentimental value. The cost of service and shipping exceeds replacement cost.

Maybe slightly under-spooling will help. You can pull off a long cast worth of lune plus some and tape the line. This helps keep backlash from going too deep. As for the reel itself it is what it is. An inexpensive reel built to loose tolerances.

In general you get the most mechanical advantage using lower ratio reels for deep diving and high resistance lures. A 7:1 is plenty fast for a jig rod but it’s more preference than mechanical advantage. I’ve done some math and not sold on the more casts theory but a fast reel takes up slack quickly when needed and makes burning a bait easier if need be.

My inbox was full. You can get me here too: mlawson@delawarevalleytackle.com

Pretty much all those Doyo variants take a 3x10x4 in the side plate and a 5x11x4 on the spool. The crank side is just lateral support and won’t affect casting. I can hook you up, just email me.

The tension spacers aren’t springy so backing off isn’t going to do anything. Over tightening can dimple them and limit adjustment range though.

I go back and forth on this. I use a lot of Fuji K guides and the loop shedding braces don’t leave enough neck. Careful attention to wrap tension seems to avoid pullouts, at least so far. Also makes the finish want to ride up and clog the guides.

Handle spin time means nothing. After a yr and a half of use it’s time for a deep cleaning. Research and dive in or send it in. Just judging from the OP I suggest the latter. Let me know if I can help.

Be sure the spool is not over filled. The line can rub on the underside of the frame.

https://www.mudhole.com/Fuji-All-Purpose-Spin-Cast-Top-F?quantity=1&custcol21=16&custcol_tube_size=10 this a match to your guides.

Mud hole and Get Bit have large inventory. Tip tops are pretty straight forward. Fuji BFAT is my default. That’s a black,f, Alconite, top. 6.5 it stout tip is it for a h or mh?

Those are pricey too. I might try one someday anyway.

What you’re doing is fine for interim diy care. The orientation of parts in the roller assembly is important. You may or may not be comfortable disassembling.

Both are right. Roll cast has two different meanings depending on context.

So little of my hand ever contacts the grip, material is mostly cosmetic. Cork had gone the way of dimensional lumber, cut from young trees and of mediocre quality at best.

Better but still can be stripped if you crank non it. That’s why I use pliers to push it flush then the Hedgehog to press it through.

Ya casting is like throwing a ball in that it’s about release point.

I actually use both: the pliers to push the pin flush and the hedgehog pin to push it out. Use the pliers to push it back in. I’ve stripped threads on the hedgehog on really tight pins. Go easy. Note: the pin goes out and in the same direction. One side of the pin slightly thinner than the other. Pretty sure I’ve had reels sent to me in a bag after using this.

Don’t. You’ll almost surely damage the spool. What did you buy for bearings and why did you decide to replace them? If this is a one and done deal you might want to have them installed. The tool will cost almost as much as the bearings but less than a spool. If want to return the bearing and buy one from me I’ll install it. The other thing to consider is did you flush the stock bearings before deciding to replace them?

If I ever use a leader is almost never due to visibility.

Nothing wrong with enjoying the fight of landing a fish as long as you use some sense and don’t exhaust them to the point of collapse. In fact I don’t care for seeing fish skated across the cover and swung into a boat to flop around on the carpet. I try to strike a balance between enjoying and respecting the resource.

1oz<jigs isn’t usually considered punching. A heavy power fast or mod fast action with appropriate lure weight range will work. Do some browsing with this in mind and if you see something that catches your eye check here for anyone with hands on.

You can also get parts on e-replacement parts. Some of the odd parts for E series are N/A but most are there.

Shimano started redoing the website and never completed it. Lots of schematics are missing.

A 5” is easily m-mh casting territory. 4” I throw on either and would be ok on ml with exposed hook.