Delaware Valley Tackle

What that’s doing is wetting and temporarily lubricating what should be cleaned and properly oiled. Purposely dunking a reel is a horrible idea.

Deep cleaning is a complete frame off tear down. The slide washers are thin plastic spacers on the frame each side of the thumb bar. The clutch lifts the yoke and pinion to disengage the spool.

The noise you’re hearing is the spool pin slipping on the end of the pinion gear. I can’t tell you why without seeing it. I d start with a Deep Cleaning to see if the clutch frees up. Look at the slide washers on the sides of the thumb bar. They wear and bind the thum bar sometimes. The drive gears themselves have nothing to do with it.

I’m also a fan of the E series. You’re not at any disadvantage using them by any means. I also have a Revo Winch that has served well. Really just depends on where you’re at personally. Lots of good new stuff to experiment with, or stick with tried and true.

You’ll get all kinds of theories on this. Whatever the original intention, where we are at today it’s 100% personal preference. I’m right handed and prefer lefty casting reels but own and use both.

Something is obviously not seated correctly. If a drag washer came out, it goes back in. If you want them diagnosed or just reassembled without deep cleaning I’ll do a pro rated rate for you.

Make sure to designate 71 left hand when ordering parts. Some don’t matter but gears definitely do.

You can click one of my logos and link to my site to email or type it mlawson@delawarevalleytackle.com. If you click on the name in this post you should see a message option for PM. Spin time of a light spool with no load isn’t a good indicator. And yes 3/10/4 is the spool bearing size.

What is a “noticeable amount”? On an inexpensive reel, my guess is that there is some normal movement from the loose fit of the AR sleeve around the shaft. This is normal to varying degrees in a lot of reels.

Yes just go real easy

Stopped before I started.

The easy fix is to slide a rubber chair leg cap over the end. Another option is to cut at the butt cap, cut off the length you want, epoxy a dowel or rod into the butt cap then into the end of the rod. Be sure to cut square so the pieces match up.

Give your Buddy my number.

Oh ya for sure. I’m a custom rod builder myself. I read that you were talking about reel internals over and above what average anglers have access to.

If you never hear about it what makes you think it’s happening? They might get a prototype to try before launch but that’s probably as radical as it gets.

Look inside the spool and you should see a little spring loaded clicker. It contacts the click gear on the main shaft. Either the clicker has partly broken off or the spring is bent, broken or misassembled.

IF that chart can be believed red stands out at depth except it looks black. Interesting but I still fall back on my own experience and anecdotal evidence.

He could be bedded or protecting fry, just running the bluegill off as opposed to feeding.

He won because he found fish and established a pattern. It’s impossible to tell whether he would have won or not having changed any or all of his tackle. We’ll never know.

I guess all my spinner baits and ARigs are going in the trash too until then.

Depending on the maker, probably yes. That’s why I added later that my personal preference is for graphite is party for the lighter weight. My point was just that material by itself doesn’t make the blank. Fiberglass is great vigor making softer blanks if that’s what you want, but they could in theory be made stiff and powerful.

The technology has changed too much over that period and until now to say whatever they did is better than what’s available today. There’s more to a blank than material too. A glass rod of sufficient power and action to work the way you want will work as well as a graphite with similar properties. The spinner baits I throw use a heavy hook so I like a fast action to drive it home without a he-man swing for the fences set. Prefer graphite for weight reduction.

The power of the rod blank determines how much weight or pressure is needed deflect/load the blank. The action is only where along the length the blank bends when the load is applied. You can have a very stiff moderate fast action like you’d find on a flipping stick, you can get a soft tip with a fast action such as that found on some labeled as popping rods and everything in between. All else being equal, if you take two blanks of identical Power, and apply a given amount of weight Deflecting the rods to the same level, one will bend in a more shallow angle which doesn’t make it softer, only slower action.

Who’s making that recommendation? You’d have to ask them. I don’t agree with any of those assertions. A slower action doesn’t equate to a softer tip or better loading.

They’re a PIA. Just keep playing with it.