Delaware Valley Tackle

The worm oscillator and self contained AR clutch are Stradic selling points for me

Any blank. If the straightest axis is used it’s hard to see when built. It’s more apparent in a bare blank.

An arrow straight blank is actually rare. Any curvature is just expected to be within tolerances.

This is about it. No need to disassemble any DC system. There’s nothing to self service there.

Email me what you’re looking for and I’ll do a quote for you.

I liked the Dingers until a couple years ago, they changed the formula and are lighter now.

How many yrs is several? Daiwa has built for cabelas and probably BPs but the PQ has been Korean for decades as far as ive seen. Daiwa and shimano maintain production facilities and some Ambassadeurs might still come from Sweden I’ve lost track. As far as I know the rest are contracted. That doesn’t make them bad by any means. But to say Lews is the best and ABU is junk just doesn’t hold water.

Maybe a popping blank will work well. Likely have to extend to the length you want though. They’re soft tipped but with backbone.

I don’t see the need for loc-tite on that screw but it’s not going to hurt if you use blue.

And EVERY centrifugal brake system activates immediately upon casting and lessens as the spool slows. We can’t help until you accept that you’re operating under some preconceived notions that just aren’t correct.

Gloss finish on rods is very thin urethane. Shouldn’t hurt much if at all.

Why don’t you use the rod to move the fish and the reel to take up the line?

I can’t tell you how many “bag-o-parts” arrive here every year. Don’t feel bad you’re definitely not alone.

It’s not a problem unless it is to you personal preference wise. They just use a little shorter handle than some others. Plus a 7’4” is going to be a little heavier. Unless it’s ridiculously poorly designed “balance” as it’s often used is a non concern for me.

The acceptable terms are “budget friendly” and “financially prudent”. Lol

If saving money is the objective rod building is not for you. If you consider your time worth -0- when your learning curve flattens out and you invest in high end components, you can end up with a rod better than off the shelf at a higher price point.

A man after my own heart!

I appreciate you thinking of me, but I don’t stock oem parts. ABU direct would be my first try.

The more supple the line, the less spool diameter will make a difference. Matching the lure to line weight and rod power is more important. The real potential game changer is the rods guide train. If standard height guides are used, the reel with the smaller frame may well cast better.

A reel is not a lubricant bath application. Grease will only fling off or build up if over applied. 00 grease might be ok on sliding parts (clutch etc)

There are no real problem areas on those. Maybe a worm and pawl for the level wind if anything. Most issues I see result from mishandling, neglect, or failed attempts at DIY service.

Reel sizes are arbitrary designations, you can’t compare them in this way. Spool diameter in part determines IPT and the width and line diameter determines how much line out decreases spool diameter thus IPT.

Call them and check the lure weight rating. Website shows 1/4-3/4 typical of their M or MH. I’ve built on both generations. If I remember, I think the x is more crisp, not necessarily more powerful.

Service, yes. Fishing, no. They’re well built, some added features but no game changer imo. One advantage to buying new is parts availability down the road. Some E parts are getting scarce.

99.99% of the time it’s something simple like that.