Delaware Valley Tackle

I had constant backlashes with a reel during a tournament so I put it away. Realized later on that I had missed a guide ring and threaded it through the frame

Lews doesn’t make BPS reels or their own. They both use the same Korean and Chinese manufacturers as does Pure Fishing(ABU, Pflueger, etc). Daiwa has relabeled some reels for Cabelas. You’re not going to find a store model identical to a manufacturer model for a lower price. They don’t undermine themselves that way.

For raw casting distance go with a 7.6-8 spinning rod with a 4000 size reel spooled with 20# braid. If you perfect your technique a fast action casts best but a slower action is more forgiving as jj alluded to.

I appreciate you thinking of me but shipping would be cost prohibitive for that repair. Replacement of the guide is the fix and the video walks you Through it. Feel free to reach out with questions.

Be it a spinner, baitcaster or rod, light weight rigid material transmits feel. The ci4 is a great reel if light weight, trouble free and longevity are what you’re looking for. Van ford is just a name change. No reason to sell off everything and start over.

Pinion and drive are always a set. If you like to tinker that’s one thing, Yes there are gains to be made, but 7# of drag is plenty for a bass reel

Line ratings on a freshwater rod are virtually useless. As stated common sense prevails.

Be respectful of the boat, don’t step on seats etc. feel put your partner to see if they like small talk or prefer quiet concentration. Fishing wise, don’t be afraid to fish off the opposite side (deeper or shallower) and target the backside of structure the boater has hit the front of. When in doubt, ask. Communication is critical.

I recommend never locking down the drag. Hitting the thumb bar under load can do damage itself. Tighter than usual, sure but never locked down.

Google rod building supplies and browse the sites. That one looks like an American Tackle or PacBay item. Can’t be sure though.

I’ve never read of and certainly never experienced any “breaking in” “weakening” or “wearing out” of a rod blank. It would be a hard sell to convince me of such. Any tube will flatten into an oval shape under load but I can’t see a blank taking a permanent set barring overload that compromised the integrity.

I was referring to the Anti Reverse in Shimano’s reels. $100 is a generous budget for a quality reel among any of the name brands. Just compare features to see what appeals to you personally.

Each brand has worthy models as well as some disappointing ones. Bang for the buck wise Pflueger still has some bargains. Shimano AR is the best, Daiwa’s air bail I like. Weights are easily found if that’s important.

Leader length and type depend on the reason for a leader at all.

Like a car that doesn’t crash? Reels don’t backlash, users do. Learn to use one correctly or stick to spinning Tackle. Don’t mean to sound harsh. You can do it but there’s no shortcut.

You should look at a rod build as a total package. The smallest, lightest guides that will pass connections and hold up in the application will preserve the maximum of the blanks inherent quality. There’s no one secret or silver bullet. Like anything else, there is the issue of bang for the buck and point of diminishing returns. When you’re ready, I’ll be happy to talk with you and work through the decision making process and hopefully do a build for you.

As a supplement to casting tackle, I lean more towards ML/F lately. As an everyday all purpose rod I’d step up to a Medium.

Yes I can do the service and drag upgrade. Send it at your convenience.

The schematic lists the parts but you’ll need to able to diagnose to figure out what needs repair, replacement or service.

If I remember the Fk has the felt washers. Cleaning and grease will help but I recommend Carbontex upgrade. An improvement that will last the life of the reel.

I never looked at arbor material as a structural component, just something to keep things concentric with the epoxy in the gaps being the true bond.

Does the pin come out or does the clicker press onto it? Is there a small e clip perhaps. That’s one I haven’t needed to do yet. A clearer close up might help me help you. Some of the schematics don’t show the clicker as an available part separate from the spool. Maybe ordering bad pool and having a back up is worth considering. If you have tools and are up to the task maybe drilling the broken one out and replacing it with the screw in version could be experimented with.

Yes I’m a steelheader too. Center pin mostly so I get the drift aspect. I was referring to those make absurd claims regarding casting distance based on misleading videos.

Technological evolution, like price points can reach a point of diminishing returns. Lots of times equipment choice is more about the angler experience than actual effectiveness. Which is fine if realized.

Spiral wrap won’t have any negative affect on any application that I’ve seen.