Delaware Valley Tackle

Nice trip. I’m going Nov 16 for a few days. Hopefully the bite is on then. It’s not like bass fishing where you can have 50 fish days but the few hookups are worth it.

Blank sanding is a skill that requires development and training. I don’t recommend it.

If you don’t use the insert you have to to be careful where you place the arbor or it will show. I’d use an insert and thin tape arbors if needed.

There’s nothing wrong with the reel. That’s just not how they’re designed to work. By slapping the handle Luke that you’re making the spool pin skim across the bottom of the pinion. If it disengages and engages under normal use it’s fine.

The correct repair is replacement of the guide. Anything else is just a stop gap.

Ya, with today’s drags I can’t see the need, compound that with the good chance of damaging internals if your technique or timing is off why chance it.

In what regard? Except for heavy cover flipping and punching braid is about sensitivity and line management. Lots of bass are caught on 6 or 5# test mono and fluoro with 12-15 being average and 20-25 for those that don’t like braid for slop fishing. A good rule of thumb for braid is to pick a diameter that matches that of the mono lb test you’d use.

Aluminum frame and quality bearings are the two things I’d be looking for. I’m not sure how the DC would work in a salt atmosphere. I’d pass on that.

I’m not as quick to bash Quantum as some. The upper end models like you mention aren’t terrible. That said, I don’t see you have anything to gain by switching beyond satisfying curiosity. Not necessarily a bad thing.

Shortening a rod from either end slows the action. Remember action is where it bends not how easily. Losing the tip will raise the casting weight significantly, how much exactly only trial will tell. A competent rod builder can splice it with imperceptible affect on performance. Probably looking at $40 give or take. Graphite isn’t brittle per se but the trade off for sensitivity and light weight is intolerance of rough handling or high sticking. It’s important that a rod not be bent with the tip beyond 90* to the butt. That pic is a classic high sticking break.

Balance is over thought, if a 9” grip is comfortable run with it. Some guide height on the stripper (first guide from reel) improves line taming and casting, to what degree depends on the reel. On a relatively powerful blank like you’re talking about the weight between a single or double foot guide is of little consequence but neither way is a deal breaker.

Fuji Kr Double foot 10, krb 5.5(2) kr 5.5 (6). rethink grip length too. I’d use a 12” or an adjustable cut down to 10-11” if you like the 9” that fine just be aware of what it is.

Blank tips are usually in 64ths of an inch I’d expect that blank to be a 5 or 5.5. The 1.7 might be millimeters. 8oz. Of epoxy is enough for a dozen rods or more. Size D thread looks like rope. Wrap with A. I wouldn’t invest in reamers until you’re sure you like it. Rat tail files will work especially for those grips. Turning a blank by hand to set epoxy is a pain but a great way to learn how epoxy behaves. I always recommend doing the first one at least that way. You can make a hand wrapper out of a couple shoe boxes with notches cut. Work into it gradually.

A dry brush and air. I use old tooth brushes.

Along with making sure it’s spooled correctly, no twists and just shy of the bevel on the spool lip.

That’s a unique idea. Nice

I’m right handed and use left hand reels 90% of the time

Try as in handle them or actually fishing? Tackle Warehouse has/had a trial program.

Rebuilds are labor intensive thus costly. Unless it’s an expensive high end blank or something so unique it can’t be matched, a ground up build makes more sense. If you sent the blank I could take measurements and shop for a match.

It won’t cast its best with the wrong guides best you’ll get is a rough idea

If there were an advantage it wouldn’t be 60 yr old technology. The models with level wind and idler bearings cast better, but even the older reels cast 1/2oz> fine, a little lighter if cleaned and lubricated properly. In a reel with a wide spool the synchronized level wind minimizes the angle of line coming off the spool into the guide but I’m not sure that offsets the having to drive the level wind when casting.

It’s not already? Oops

From the bank you probably can’t benefit much from deep running cranks or the 5:1 reels

When line shoots the friction on the blank or guides is inconsequential. The two piece experiment gives you an idea how it works. A true spiral is even better.

There are liquid and paste epoxy adhesives. Use a liquid.