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Delaware Valley Tackle

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Everything posted by Delaware Valley Tackle

  1. Oh ya there are absolutely good reasons for baitcaster applications. I just don’t think modern bass reels are best used as a winch.
  2. Your rod will move any fish way faster than any reel.
  3. I don’t know what to call that but it’s not a double uni or a blood knot
  4. 20# braid won’t be longest casting but not restrictive either. It’s thin braid that digs in not thicker. Make sure the line is threaded thru the guides correctly(not kidding it happens). Fill the spool as suggested.
  5. Pure Fishing is unreachable due to COVID-19 at least in my experience. You’ll have to try a parts dealer
  6. Everyone's swamped in large part to the manufacturer backlogs and back orders. Getting components and parts is a nightmare right now.
  7. All a drag does is provide limited slip under pressure. Line can only fray from contact with a rough surface: a chipped guide ring, a dinged spool lip, retrieve through cover like wood, rock and worst of all zebra mussels.
  8. There are two philosophies when it comes to blank design: thin wall / large diameter and thick wall / small diameter. Neither is right or wrong just different ways to get the desired performance from a tubular blank. Don’t over think it.
  9. Warm with a hair dryer not too hot to touch with bare hands. Cut threads along top of the keeper to not cut the blank. Rewarm and pull thread to unwrap. The thread will peel the remaining epoxy off with it. The condition of the underlying epoxy and decals will have to be assessed after. Chances are the spot will be visible and have some residue. If you want, sand smooth with 400-600 grit and re-coat with finish epoxy.
  10. The difference between a frog rod and flipping stick “should” be that the frog rod loads and casts better. Contrary to popular belief fast action doesn’t necessarily mean stiff tip. All said, I don’t have hands on with the specific rods you’re looking at. I have worked on Daiwa Steez rods that were heavy power with soft tips so they’re no stranger to the concept
  11. Ya we’ve seen layers of blank material supplemented with the arbor. Forgot to mention that. Fortunately you didn’t have to go there. Just an unfortunate oversight/mistake during assembly. Looks like you’ll be ok.
  12. Don’t remove the cork. Drill two 3/32 holes through the seat but not into the blank. Inject liquid adhesive epoxy into one hole until it oozes out the other.
  13. Tsi321 on spool bearings, AR, 80-140 gear oil on frame bearings, sliding parts and level wind, marine grease on main gear, spring washers for drag tension, drag grease on drag washers.
  14. I don’t understand the leader knot concern with the Daiwa. The large opening on the T wing should make it less of an issue if anything.
  15. That’s a high load area of the blank. You could be asking for trouble fishing it as is. As for “most Tackle shops do rod n reel repair” that’s not my experience. Go to rod building sites and inquire. You’ll find someone local enough.
  16. Not yo hi jack your thread, any tips for remote ramps without docks?
  17. In general, longer for distance, shorter for accuracy. Longer rod moves more line for distant hook sets and reach with fixed line as in flipping. Shorter can be easier to handle when fishing vertically as in drop shot under the boat.
  18. The most disturbing part of your story is the tackle shop clipping off tip tops! ?
  19. ^^^^ yup clear the slack and loops occasionally and you’ll be ok
  20. It takes surprisingly little weight for the lever effect of a conventional guide setup to be visible in tests. A spiral build is the most efficient. That said, the improvement is slight as is nearly every choice: grip length, guide size, number of guides, ring and frame materials, spacing... no one is likely a game changer or deal breaker but it all adds up. if you’re doing custom and have the ability to maximize every aspect why not?
  21. Any liquid epoxy adhesive. I keep CRB from mud hole in the shop. Doesn’t have to be rod building specific though.
  22. There’s a void (empty space) between the cork and blank. Drill 3/32 into cork being careful not to go into the blank. Two holes is so air can escape allowing the adhesive to flow in.

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