Delaware Valley Tackle

Did you account for any time zone difference? I always get right through and the staff is helpful.

Most every brand has offerings across a range of prices. You’ll get better opinions by posting a budget

I always thought the Hobie was waaay cool but I’d find it hard to drop that much $ without a motor.

The devils in the details ain’t it? All this stuff looks simple until you get into it.

The baits don’t torn up as quickly as spearing them as well.

It depends on the reel. At a minimum you need to remove any lateral play. Beyond that feel free to experiment.

There’s nothing wrong or shameful about using the cast control. You don’t need to be weaned any more than you would from the rear brake on a motorcycle. It’s part of the system.

Lots of models use brass spacers. There should be a cross reference if the old part number is no good.

I think it was a fluke. I wouldn’t worry about other rods. You can inject epoxy into the cracks and clamp them with heavy rubber bands. Clean up with denatured alcohol

Those are a wear item. Over tightening can shorten their life but won’t hurt anything else. When they get dimpled flip them over. Replace as necessary. Rest easy.

That’s right. Solid anything is the wrong material for a fix.

I have a set of T5-T10. I want to say the 8 and 10 but The whole set was inexpensive.

The line won’t contact that spot so you’re fine from a performance standpoint. If it bothers you cosmetically the correct fix is replacement.

I have a set. I’ll look at them and see if I remember which one.

Daiwa uses a few different brake systems. They vary between models. You can’t lump them all together

Core 51 or 101

I’ll agree this looks more like a spooling issue than equipment.

My personal practice is that I’ll pay 60% of msrp for a second hand item if it’s in like new condition. Some popular items may command higher. The E reels have a loyal following.

I doubt the worm gear is worn out already. The line guide pawl cap may be loose or you may have a backing to main line knot causing a hump. Barring any of these, I’d look for something in the retrieve, rod angle, finger pressure etc.

A deep cleaning should be your first step. Including bearing flush and light oil.

Both methods are perfectly safe.

Magic Eraser or simple green and a soft brush

Warm the epoxy with a hair dryer and carefully slice the thread along the foot. Pulling the tag end will peel off most of the epoxy. Gentle heat and scraping with the edge of an old credit card will clean up any residue.

There’s a spring loaded washer with teeth under the handle. Tighten the drag all the way, pull the washer away from the handle and turn the handle backwards. It’s threaded right onto the shaft. Quantum’s were like this for a while.

If that model has centrifugal brakes oil the drum.