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I use 6 lb P-Line CXX.

Nice looking fish! Look at that squat, little tail.

Same here. Around heavy cover, a person could always add a punch skirt to the T Rig for the best of both worlds. I have limited experience with punch skirts, but so far, so good. They give your T Rig a bigger profile while remaining sleek and easy to get thru the weeds.

Texas rigged tubes and tube jigs have a drastically different action. The jigs are much more erratic and give you a nicer spiral on the fall than any T rig tube I've used. In open water and around rocks, I've had much, much better luck with the jigs, but they sure find a way to get snagged, that's for sure. I need to check out those internal weights to see how they compare. They look easy to skip.

I don't follow. Are you rigging it like shown in the diagram? http://www.***.com/guides/texasrig.html Another thing you could look into is maybe upsizing your line if you're breaking off tube jigs so easily. They generally have light wire hooks that are easy to straighten out when snagged if your line is strong enough. Also, do you use the "bowstring technique" to try to free your snagged lures? Tube jigs are really easy to free from rocks and crevices with this little trick, maybe the easiest lure. To do it, you put your rod down and hold the snagged line tight with one hand while pulling on the line with the other, drawing it back like a bowstring and releasing it, trying to throw slack in the line after the release to allow the lure to back out of the snag. It might take 5 or 10 snaps, but it works great on rocky snags for the most part. With braided line, it's not quite as effective because there's no line stretch. Tube jigs are one of my favorite lures, and I saved countless jigs like this. Just remember to keep your hooks sharp, because they will get dull by doing this, especially if you have to tug on them to straighten the hook.

Texas rigged with an Extra Wide Gap(EWG) hook.

David P. - Delta frogging.

He's right. I'm a little surprised you didn't get a ticket. It likely would have been thrown out if you made a good case, but it would have sent a message to you and your buddies. If you're in the gray area, you have to get a stamp. Those Wardens don't play, but I've never had any issues with them. I think they generally have better intentions then your average police officer, but with all the authority they have, some will let it go to their head. You might have just met one that has.

Most people seem to be going with 7-8' H power, F action rods for hollow body frogs in heavy cover. Some opt for lighter rigs, like 7' MH/F if they fish mostly edges or lighter cover, or if they fish Texas rigged toads more often than hollow bodied frogs.

Frogs and toads are versatile. They can be fished in many ways and with different speeds. I usually vary my retrieve every 5 or 10 casts until I figure it out. Pop with rod tip up, chug with rod tip down, steady slow crawl, burn and stop, walk, deadstick, skitter, swimming a weighted Spro under the pads, etc. I would recommend that you start by walking the frog slowly, and pausing frequently in holes and on edges. This is probably the highest percentage retrieve for me. I reel down and set the hook ASAP. I have had much better luck doing this than trying to wait a few seconds. It usually takes a second to do this anyway, even if you hurry.

It depends on the season, water temp, and the fishes mood: - Chigger Craw, V&M Mud Bug, Paca Chunk, Paca Craw for the most action. - Zoom Super Chunks and Smallie Beavers for some action. - Zoom Big Salty Chunk, small chunks or small pork frogs for the least action. For the most part, I thread them onto the hook for a smaller profile and rig them as a chunk for a larger profile.

What do you think, with the reel not operating correctly and the seller's negative attitude, is this worthy of a negative feedback? I'd say it's borderline, but probably yes, even though the issue was solved in minutes with a simple inspection.

Thanks Way2slow, I might have to try that, but I'm considering a new one now. I heard that Mirror Glaze is a good option, too. Thanks Catt, but I don't see a windshield for mine on there. It's a 2004 Stratos 275 Pro XL. That's a good looking place, Olebiker. It would be easy to replicate mine. I'll have to give them a call. Thanks.

That's great work. Very clean looking.

I agree. With a restored gelcoat, new carpet, and a maybe a new trolling motor, that could a heck of a fishing machine for $4000-4500.

Jig and curlytail grub.

Texas rigged raw chicken skin. I know an old-timer who fishes this in pads like a floating worm or on the back of a Johnson Silver Minnow.

Fluorocarbon is more sensitive than other nylon lines because it's denser and transmits vibration better. I think it has about the same stretch as Big Game or CXX, maybe a hair less. The other advantage of fluorocarbon is that it is nearly invisible underwater because it comes very close to matching the refractive(light bending) index of water. For shakeyhead fishing, I use 15 lb. braid with a 10 lb. fluoro leader or straight 6 lb. CXX.

I use Bass Boat Saver or Bow To Stern. These are multi-purpose cleaners meant for fiberglass boats. I do the whole boat after I get home from every trip. The water stains, dust, and gunk are gone in a sec. No smears. The stuff is great, but it's not cheap. If you're only cleaning screens with it, it'll last forever. http://www.bassboatsaver.com/ http://btsprotectant.com/

That's what I was thinking, they're silver, but regardless of the color, it still works like crap. I hate hearing stories like this. I keep my fingers crossed each time I order something, but I rarely buy anything used for this exact reason.

Do you own a GLX, Dodgeguy? How many GLX rods have you broken? Or are you basing your reviews solely from what allegedly happened to Marty's buddy? If the answers are no, zero and yes, then you're doing the folks at BR a disservice by giving a scathing condemnation of GLX rods whenever you have an opportunity. Pretty much everybody with personal experience with GLX thinks they are top of the line and would recommend them to a friend.

I started with 20#, which was regrettable, then tried 30#, then 50# and 65#, and after that 40#. The one that performed the best? 50#, no doubt about it. 50# is the way to go, IMO, unless you fish some really nasty cover for possible DD fish. Then I would recommend #65 or heavier. If you're worried about line visibility, it's best to use a leader instead of stepping down the braid size. 40# is the minimum I would recommend, but I don't really see a significant advantage of using 40# over 50#. 30# is really too thin for a baitcaster. The line doesn't lay on the spool right and you lose casting distance IMO. You can feel some shifting when you push on the spool hard, down and side to side with your thumb, because the wraps are stacked on top instead of laying next to each other. Try putting 6# CXX or 20/6 braid on a casting reel and you'll what I'm talking about, there's big-time stacking and overlapping of the lines. It's not as severe with 30/8 lines, but it's still there. Also, if you have to tighten down the drag and break off a lure with 30#, the line will cut into the spool and fray the line on the spool, causing you to mysteriously cast off a lure plus 60' of line later that day or week or month.

I tape the mono to the spool with a 1/2" wide strip of electrical tape, spool it up about 60% with cheap 10lb mono, and use a Double Uni to connect mono to braid. It's not necessary to tape nylon lines to the spool, only braid, but I do it anyways.

Grass and sand will fray up your line a little. I found that out when I was learning how to cast in my back yard. A limp, soft mono like XL may need to be respooled after lots of practice casting, but you didn't really cast very much. Sounds to me like the line was strung though the metal base on one of the guide and not the ring.

I like these Owners and the Gamakatsus. I don't think there has much of a difference as far as hookup ratios. I use 2/0 on spinnerbaits and 3/0 on buzzbaits. http://www.performancetackle.com/freshwater-fishing/terminal-tackle/hooks/trailer-hooks/spinnerbait-trailer-hook/prodSPINNERHOOKTRAILERHOOK.html