blackrain

In open water for smallies, meaning rocks, sand, gravel with tubes and football heads I use straight fluoro mainly because I'm generally dragging the jig and I live in zebra mussel country. I would agree that fluoro has better slack line sensitivity. I also prefer fluoro for pitching and fishing wood laydowns. In grass I'll usually use straight braid. The only time I use braid with a leader is on spinning tackle, for dropshot, Ned, and other finesse.

Very nice review, thanks for taking time to post your first-hand experiences with both versions of the Loomis 844 MBR. I love my GLX 843c and have been looking at the IMX Pro BJR (Matt Allen fan here too) as a dedicated bladed jig rod since I do not feel I need the NRX+ version for chatterbaits.

They are expensive but they are the best. REI carries them as well as cycling base layers, which are also great base layers.

Best mono? For spinning reels? McCoy Mean Green, in clear or moss green.

I'm in the camp with fine tuning the rod's action by using braid, fc, or mono. I prefer mod-fast for all moving baits and fast for bottom contact. I've tried extra fast action rods but found I lost too many big smallies (and largemouth) since they tend to go airborne a lot, especially in Summer. As has been mentioned many times, find a rod brand that feels good and stick with it since each rod maker's fast is another company's xf or mod-fast.

I have owned mine for over 25 years, made in Japan. It's still going strong. Love it.

I'm somewhat of the same mindset as Dwight in that I fish the Great Lakes so when tying on a leader to braid, I'll use copolymer (casting gear) for swimming grubs and swimbaits, mostly for some shock absorption and for keeping the bait off bottom. I'll tie on a fluoro leader for dropshotting and Ned rigging (spinning gear), for abrasion resistance and for keeping the weight/bait on bottom. Everything else is straight fluoro or copolymer, except pitching a T-rig in dense weeds with straight braid.

My vote is for McCoy Mean Green, in 8 or 10 lb test

Braid to leader: Crazy Alberto braid to lure: Palomar fluoro or mono to lure: Trilene knot But I will try the SDJ knot with fluoro and compare, not that I have issues with the Trilene knot.

I've worn both inflatable and standard PFD. Though inflatables are more comfortable, my vote is a good standard PFD that you can try on and make sure it fits snug enough that it won't ride up above your arms and head. Meaning if any PFD isn't properly adjusted, it won't keep you above water when fully clothed. Summer is the best time to test your PFD in shallow water by jumping in (of course don't dive headfirst or cannonball) fully clothed and see what happens. It will open your eyes and make you aware of what it's like should you go overboard "for real". And test whether your inflatable is properly armed or not. This is the one I wear: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Onyx_Tackle_Warehouse_Life_Vest_Red/descpage-OTWSPLV.html Catch it when they have a 15% off sale. It's very comfortable, the Medium fits perfectly (I'm 5'10", 175) and has a zipper closure plus buckles vs the buckles only so feels more secure. Very comfortable and red color so very visible in and out of the water (though not as much as orange or yellow).

Agree with others even though I don't have FFS. I'd probably give up everything before not having my MK with spot lock.

I wouldn't dare speak for the late Charlie Brewer as to what he would have used since today he was one of the true pioneers of finesse fishing and had his "system" of Slider fishing 4" worms down to an exact science, for him. Including cutting off the bails of his spin reels. That said, I have his book (Slider Fishin') and his DVD and would recommend the OP pick up at least the book. If you fish open water with little to no cover then I'd use a ML 6 to 6 1/2 ft rod with no more than 6 lb line and slowly swim the worm using an open hook rigging. For cover like weeds, I move up to a Med power rod and 8 lb test and rig the worm Texas style. Still fish it very slow and steady on the retrieve. A truly deadly system for suspended bass.

Dwight, that last one is a freak of nature!

I disagree about not being able to skip well on line heavier than 10 lb test. Especially on baitcasting gear. I agree you need to first get bit but where I skip baits, I've learned the hard way if I can't get the fish out, it's a waste. Been wrapped around every imaginable piling, pole, cable, rope, etc. Plus the bass is swimming around with a hook stuck in its mouth for who knows how long.

I would never use less than 15lb fluoro when dock skipping. At least the docks and wood I fish that have metal poles and wood pilings often covered with zebra mussels. And, abrasion resistant copoly lines have as or more memory than quality FC like Tatsu. If I were you I’d mimic the pros who recently fished docks and see what they use. Example is Jason Christie during his win on Chick. It’s on YT.

No leader here. Straight copoly/mono in 17lb for me with spinnerbaits. Never use braid unless it’s fishing heavy grass with swim jigs and Texas rigs.

Agree with others that 5000 rpm is way low.

I would search out anything from David Frits. He’s probably forgotten more about fishing crank baits than anyone on the tour. With regard to buying an NRX level rod for crankbaits, this makes zero sense to me. Everyone loses crankbait fish. I would first look into tweaking your line choice and most importantly hook choice. All the pros swap out stock hooks for a reason.

I had the same experience, with their 17lb. test. This gets my vote as well. Awesome line. I use it for topwaters in 15 and 20lb test. They don't grow that big here in Michigan, A-Jay! If they did, then I'd spring for a premium line ?

Don't have the A2 but own and have fished two A's for over three years. Love 'em. We'll see if they last as long as my Daiwas and Shimanos but so far they work like the day I got em.

Agree with you guys, for them to come up to Erie and poach smallies - they must be serious enough bass fishermen. Plus they released the walleyes?? I'd rather eat a walleye! Fine 'em all to repay costs for time staking them out, revoke fishing and hunting privileges for life, and sell their tackle or donate to some youth group.

Don't apologize dude. This forum is loaded with guys who get their kicks showing off their rods and reels. Cracks me up how some guys obviously baby their gear and show them off like a woman shows off her shoe collection. So I saw nothing wrong with posting your excitement about getting a good deal on a good rod. Bet there's guys on here who would never own a "factory blem" rod, LOL. No jealousy here as I own GLX, LE, etc. gear but have come to realize guys like Clunn and KVD learned long ago that fish don't care what boat you fish out of or how expensive your gear is. Spend your time (and money) figuring out the fish and not what reel matches what rod ;D

islandbass, yes, the LSC river channels hold many deepwater smallies which I have not yet targeted but plan to. As you point out, I do need 2 rods, on ML and one M. Most of my dropshotting is in water less than 20 feet though. I am asking about the Fenwicks because I have an older Techna AV which is awesome (head and shoulders above a Crucial, IMO) and there are no local dealers with the Elite Techs for me to feel before pulling the trigger. farmer, wasn't trying to ruffle your feathers, was just hoping that you would give more clarification if in fact you fished the Fenwick. Maybe my stating it would be an 'upgrade' was the improper wording. I have a hard time believing those rods (or any 2 rods) feel and fish identically so I suppose I will just have to buy one for myself and try it out. detroit1: my boat (Alumacraft) has cleats that sit up on the gunnels and while landing a bass I unknowingly nudged the rod under the cleat. When I went to pick up the rod, not knowing it was wedged in there, snap went the rod. I'm not on the 'juice' which is why I was somewhat shocked at how "cheap" the blank looked way down near the butt end. No problem exchanging for a new one at Cabela's though. That's one of the rod's strong points I guess.

NewAngler, you're my hero. I write and edit scientific articles on occasion and can be pretty anal about spelling, grammar, punctuation, etc. But on a public, open forum, it always cracks me up when people reply to someone giving a sincere, helpful response by criticizing said person's lack of the above. Not everyone communicates in the same style - as long as the message gets across, that's all that matters. As far as Quantum tackle, use whatever you can afford and enjoy it. I have used my fair share of low, medium, and high end tackle and they all catch fish. That said, the best rods ever made (factory) were the Fenwick Techna AV's made in the US, with Fuji handles and sic guides. IMO they were this close to GLX at (now) half the price. Anyone have any they want to sell?