ChrisAW

I currently own both of these reels. I just bought the high speed a couple days ago and I paired it with a 7' Medium-Light Carrot Stix Wild. I normally don't care what my combo's look like, but both the rod and reel were on clearance for $59.97 each, and they match perfectly. I couldn't pass it up. But anyways, I was curious if anyone knows if the normal Trio and the Trio HS's gears are interchangable? I'd rather the high speed be on a 6'9" medium heavy I have for skipping docks and general plastics use than my new dropshot rod, as I feel line pickup is more important for that when I often have slack line, but this combo looks and feels so good together I don't want to swap the whole reel. Am I right or what? Who would split this pair. I just thought I'd ask first to see if they are. I've looked at the schematics and tried to find any information but there isn't much available, I'm assuming, because these reels aren't very popular. I'm more than comfortable taking my reels apart, but I'd rather just avoid it if its already known that they aren't interchangable.

I happened to head into one of my local Walmarts today, and wandered to the fishing section. They are upgrading a little as well, only just started to put out fishing rods. KVD's, Vendetta's, Skeet Reese, Falcons.. Some decent reels as well. But I didn't see anything new in terms of tackle. I'd rather see more of that than rods.

The above is exactly it. Once I figured out that I was the problem, I was throwing crankbaits like a rock, easily casting up to 200 feet. Even though it worked well, I rarely throw crankbaits, I ended up swapping the two SX's I have to pitching duty because they do work really well for that application.

Yes, the SX's can be a bit finicky. Both of mine, depending on what im throwing, would have a couple random major backlashes. Most of the time i set them to where i needed to use my thumb for cast control, but not so.loose that it wouldnt mostly control itself, but it still seemed to happen every so often. Depends on what youre going to throw with it. I used mine for everything you could think of and they have been settled as pitching reels, or for heavy texas rigs and jigs. It also depends on the line you choose, hoyow well it will handle those light lures. If youre using that weight head with a chunk of plastic behind it, then yes, thry will handle it fine. But if youre using actual 1/4 ounce lures, it could take a little practice from my experience, but should be able to throw them. But, depending on if its a sleek little rattle trap or a small spinnerbait that will catch the wind will determin how easily.

Nothing wrong with the Skeet rods IMO. I also work at Gander, but instead of just looking at them I do own two and they work fine. The Heavy Cover rod has done great by me. I use it for punching and throwing frogs sometimes. Worked great for punching, had no problem feeling a bite and it definitely has the power to pull them out. Had the Veritas' Micro's been available when I purchased the SR rod, I probably would have went with the Veritas as well.. Mainly because I don't care for the color.

They weren't going after the people on Youtube for selling rigs with the same name (Or if someone was, forgive me, I hadn't seen that mentioned anywhere), they were telling them using "A-Rig" and other such names to describe there videos was illegal when most were just showing others how to make them themselves.

Its not likley they would ever find out, but its just something i thought i might mention. I have no right to say its true or not.

I don't know if Bass Pro is similar to Gander, but there is a chance a person could lose their job if they actually had scanned and showed an advanced copy of a flier. May or may not be true for BPS, but I don't doubt they have the same policy.

Well I've got about 6 molds I've made, a couple two part molds of existing baits, and 4 open pours of my own creations. Nothing too extravagent, but I can already tell this is going to be my favorite new hobby! My first pours. The 4.5" craw pictured above and a different 3.5" that I made up last week. This was just a test so I only used enough plastisol to pour my two craw molds. I definitely could have picked a more photo friendly color for the first, haha

I used this rig throughout the summer trying.to catch bigger fish in the deep water. I use 15# Seaguar InvisX, with 1/2 to 1 ounce weights depending on depth, and either offset straight shank or EWG matched to the bait, usually 3/0 or bigger though. Not only did i pull in quite a few big'uns, i also hooked into a couple 35" plus pike on 10" worms. Lol

I actually thought they were thick as well, but working with sculpy and pouring the molds when its soft makes it hard to transfer from work station to mold pan with thin appendages. I molded it thick so I could get it off my working pan. Being my first mold its trial and error, but I figured I may just be able to poor in what I feel is enough, and not have to top off the cavity completely when pouring plastic.

Mann's holds the copyright to that thing right? Well, I'll be sure not to purchase any of their lures from here on out. What a bunch of looney's. Reminds me of Talon lures with that prop jig fiasco

Its a 4.5" craw. Not many peole fish baits that big around here, so not many local retailers sell it. I was only able to find Rage Tail Lobsters at an expo I went to for work, so I grabbed about 6 bags of them. It just kind of seemed like the best choice for my first mold since I fish jigs a LOT and I want some big trailers for them.

A couple hours of my time sculpting a craw bait, this is what I got from it. I have a couple bubbles to fill but I think it turned out well for my first mold.

You can practice skipping on a cement surface, like your driveway. I did this to learn at times when I wasn't on the water, and had no problem skipping when I started doing it on the water. Geralds technique didn't quite work for me, but its still worth watching. It's a good place to start, and you'll likely end up finding your own, more comfortable, technique if it doesn't for you either while practicing. While learning, braid is going to be your best friend. You won't destroy a bunch of line while learning because backlashes with braid can be picked out much easier, and I found it easier to skip with all together. I still used braid on the water, and even though flourocarbon is recommended because of its abrasion resistance, I had no problems getting fish to the boat with 40# braid being wrapped around lots of stuff.

I didnt see a big difference in hookup ratio, but i did see a difference in how much deeper some hooks would penetrate when comparing Gamakatsu/Owner and Trokar. For everyday fishing, i wouldnt say its worth it. But if you have money on the line, it could make the difference. I was pleased to see them lower their prices 3 dollars a pack to 6.99, atleast at my store. I will likely be using a couple of their techique specific hooks in the future now if i happen to be in a big money tournament.

I like the Havoc plastics. I only have the Pit Boss, Devil Spear, and the new tube they just brought out. The rest of their designs, I have no real interest in. But the plastic itself seems to last pretty good, and takes to being repaired very well, atleast with Mend-It.

I'm in the market as well, and get a discount through work on either Wiley's or Costa's. I wouldn't have any problem spending the extra money on Costa's, but the 580 lenses being glass is what I'm worried about. I had a pair of Wiley's and I thought they were great, especially the day I had a 3/4oz jig come out of a fishes mouth and smack me right in the eye. They definitely saved me from harm there, I'm not sure I want glass lenses if it ever happens again Are the 580s really that much better? How much better do they cut the glare? Are they still a basic couple-feet-wide spot that I can see into the water, or do they cut the glare better and allow me to see a bigger area? The water is very clear in the lakes around me, and sight fishing is a big part of my fishing at times, so the better they are the more likely ill end up with a pair of Blackfins with some 580 lenses.

I have on Blackmax as well and was using it for punching last season. I crossed a few 4+ pound fish's eyes with 65# braid and it seems to be fine. But I can't say that one season is enough to really tell... I don't think I'll have any problems with it though. If you're unsure, just don't lock down the drag. You'll have a hard time getting 8-10 pounds of drag to slip if its capable of that. (I do have mine locked down but I got my Black Max for $10 so I'm not being careful with it) but it would allow for some slippage if you happen to give it a real good tug.

It's experienced some runs out on lake Michigan during some bad swells. My bag was meant for six 2 inch boxes, but has six 1-1/2in boxes and two 2in boxes. They fit very tight, so the lids are pushed down on the dividers and keeps everything in its place, as well as the weights are all down on the bottom so they don't push through any of them. The only thing I had a problem getting mixed up were some splits rings until I put all the strays in a bag of other rings. But yes, some of the dividers I glued in. Mainly the ones around the weights. The rest are changed somewhat often, so I'd almost rather leave them free since I haven't had any problems with them getting mixed.

I used to try and keep all my tackle in with the items I'd pair them up with the most. But that tackle was just taking up precious space that I could have more baits in, so I put it all in its own box.

then you've been using a really junky braid or a dang good fluorocarbon!Braid has zero memory, which means it won't spring off your reel and whatnot, and also isnt as effected by line twist.

Personally, this is pretty much why all my rigs are straight flouro (or whatever) other than my heavy cover stuff. If I would just rather not have that knot, and run one solid line. But basicly, the biggest advantage of braid is that its forgiving. It has no memory, and is very castable. A lot of people use it just for those reasons alone. The strength of the line is only necessary when fishing heavy cover, and the fact that is has no stretch allows one to really horse a fish from cover. But adding leaders basicly allows them to have the advantages of flouro. Invisibility, abrasion resistance, and the ability to break off if needed.

Yeah they are. The SX has just magnetic brakes, while the STX has both( atleast the new ones do.) Stx for sure. I have two SX's and I like them, but that's only because I have them being used mainly for pitching, so they do very little casting. The magnetic brakes are finicky. They seem to like to have backlashes at random, which can get frustrating.

Depends on the use. With heavier line weights like 65# and 20# leader, I'll only tie a leader on thats as long as my rod. Only so when casting, the knot is not reeled up onto the spool and won't possibly rip the level wind apart because of the larger knot. Even if its unlikely to happen, I'd rather not be the first to experience a freak accident. With something like 30# braid and 10# flouro, I make it as long as I feel like making it. these knots are small enough that I have no worries about getting caught on anything. They pass through even the smallest microguides easily. I don't have to retie it as often with all the lure changes with a longer leader.