Hooligan

The SIC guides on the Cumara are superior to that of the IMX, you got what I meant. The Grips and handles are quite durable, and they're completely unlike any of many other grips that get slimy and lose their grip when wet or with sweating hands. I've had no issues at all with them. The CUCX72M is a great rod for 3/16-3/8 ounce jigs, and light T-RIgs. It's one of my favorites. It's got plenty of power to handle good fish, and it's got more than enough blank to cast those lighter baits easily. I usually have two of that rod in the boat, as it fits that specific need better than most other rods, for my feel and the way I fish.

Stuff I take along: Sunscreen, phone, water, vitamin water, food, Haribo Gummy bears (These are an absolute necessity, before even clothing come the gummy bears, it's a luck thing)- I also triple check my licenses to ensure the state I'm in is in there. Lastly, I take a bee-sting kit as I'm deathly allergic- Got stung in a tournament a number of years ago and they had to airlift me from the ramp to the hospital, after an epi-pen injection, too. Luckily we were on the run back for weigh in, or unluckily. Got stung on the face during the run. The guys were even nice enough to weigh my fish without penalizing me, and load my rig and drive it in to the hospital. Then charged me for it out of the check! Stuff that's either in the truck or boat every fishing trip anyhow: Spare Trolling motor, spare prop, spare trolling motor prop, rain gear, spare glasses, first set of glasses. Suture kit/staple gun. First aid kit. Lindy No Scent Soap, TP, a couple towels, a micro fiber rag.

The Cumara stacks up to both in terms of sensitivity, really. The GLX is slightly lighter in weight, but recently, even the Cumara has better finish, imo. The wraps are good, the seats are good, the guides are superior. I prefer the grips on the Cumara. I won't get into warranty, because they're essentially the same- it breaks, it's going to be replaced so long as it's not stupidity. On the breakage note, I've had zero issue with Cumara breakage, and I've fished them since their release. I'd go so far as to say that I have more Cumara than any other single series. I have at least duplicates of most of the bottom contact rods, in some cases three and four. In the Reaction series I have seven or eight of them. I like them not only because of their price point, but they've been very durable for me. Others have reported lots of breakage, I've yet to break one in any circumstance that wasn't my fault. IMO, the difference between the GLX and IMX isn't HUGE but it is noticeable. Step up the NRX from the GLX and it's gigantic. Just like stepping up to a high grade custom will blow most high end rods out of the water. (Even though I own many NRX, I still don't feel the price is justified.) In the end, in the rods in the series that work for me, and my purposes, I've purchased. From here forward, though, I'm moving more and more towards customs because of the tolerances and specs you can manage with them. You can get EXACTLY what you're after.

It's all about the rod on that bait. I throw them on a Loomis CBR843 with zero issue. You've got to have a rod that will load those baits effectively.

Use wire mould to secure to the shaft. The cable can then slide freely through the mould with no issue. You can leave a tag if needed, or loop in the middle around the point that the shaft turns in the housing, but it isn't necessary. It's also a lot less work than taking everything apart.

Pitzen, but I'm usually not throwing A-Rig on braid. Usually throw it on 25lb big game.

I know a couple guys have been fishing 1/2 ounce spinnerbaits on two wires and swimbaits on the others. I've mostly fished grubs and swimbaits, haven't felt the need to change away from that. I try to not throw it as much as possible, and on quite a few lakes I fish it has slowed tremendously.

What'll drive you really mad is to have a couple super tuned. Talk about insane smooth performance. On one of my CHMGs, I had to put heavy brakes in and all on in order to be able to use the reel for short distance work effectively. It's just insane.

Oh no, Mike, by rig, I mean my vessel, my tournament rig. The only time I've spent around oil and gass has been clearing right of way and timber clearing in East TX.

DOH! That's what I get for posting at beforeGod Thirty. Power Pole all the way. I think I was having a thought about the Talon's construction, erased it and left the end of it. The Talon is better built, in terms of the control arm, but the overall build of the Power Pole is better for holding in deep water. I'll edit the post while I'm lucid.

Vinny, that's one of the best Hulls that Stratos ever produced. I had that hull and the 195 Pro XL. The 295 fishes every bit of it's length and it's a great performing boat. There's a LOT that you can do with it in terms of prop and jack plate height to get it running comfortably. It's a very stable hull design that shouldn't present you many issues in handling. If you're not pushing the envelope, it's quite comfortable. It will handle all the water you throw at it, and provide a very good ride while doing it. I fish out of my old 195 a lot, and it's still one of my favorite boats. I've got a 200 Ficht on it and it will out and out scream. It's a 70mph boat with a light chop, albeit nearly empty. Loaded with me, a buddy, and gear, we can hit 64 with no issue. It'll do that all day long and chew through about 16GPH. I still tend, very much, to look at mileage on the water because it's a very good comparison. With my Triton, I'll hit higher fuel consumption but get more miles because of the better speed and better handling on plane. That said, the Stratos isn't far behind at all. The biggest gripe I have about it is the step to the front deck should have been moved back between the consoles, instead of step up in front of them. It would have allowed for better weight distribution and better storage, as well as more deck space. Anyhow, yeah, you made a great buy on that ride, the EFI will serve you well, it's a good, solid motor, and there's no reason the throw an Opti on it unless you're really, really, concerned about consumption. The other thing that you're going to have to play with, is find where your sweet spot is with the prop that is on it. That rig can handle a LOT of prop, there's a lot of guys out there that are running 15 5/8 26 pitch props on it. That's a LOT of prop for a 200, but they're not having any issues with it. I personally have a 14 5/8 25 Raker on it and have found that with my jack-plate settings it's about perfect. The Merc is a little heavier, though, so your mileage may vary. I love that hull... Edit: in terms of length, that boat is a dead on 19' from stern to bow, centerline. I've measured mine a dozen times, the 195 is slightly longer. I believe that Stratos counts the stock 6" jackplate on it.

I'm rolling through the general area on the 23, I might could squeeze a day to fish the 24th, I'll try to make it happen. Some of it is going to depend on travel schedule after getting some work done on the rig. Hopefully everything aligns and I can make it. Don't count on it, but I'd like to. I then need to forge on to another event.

No, I am not. I do not live in their shoes. They bleed red just like I do. I'm proud of who and where I am, but I'm not so conceited to see that there's little difference between us in the end. So long as they are legal in their pursuits, I have no issue. I have more issue with someone that breaks a state record with no valid license, kills a great fish over it, and it will not be recognized. Edit: For the record, brown fish are some of the very best eating for shore lunch. BWCA meals consist of many fillets of smallmouth and walleyesaurus-rex. And I'm not too proud to admit it.

Best Hook- Moaner Swimbait 5/0 or 6/0. Best line- 17-25lb fluoro or 20-25lb Big Game in Grass and Trash. Reel- anything from 5.4-7.1.

Pertty Sure Bantam confirmed this in a recent posting, can't find it though.

I buy it by the gallon, too, and that lasts me easily through a couple seasons.

You're completely correct. I wasn't thinking of the standard 100 and 101, my apologies, the upgradeable handle is only on the 100MG7. BUT- It's also an 84MM handle, which is slightly longer than the standard 80MM on the 100+101. I don't know, however, that it is available yet. I believe, too, they're a standard 4x7x2.5.

They're available pretty much anywhere, I'm sure DVT would have them or be able to get them. It's very easy to install, pull the knob, install bearing after removing bushing, reinstall knob. For a quality bearing you should be around 9-10 bucks.

I guess it's hard for me to choose a favorite, they're all different and based on the particular pattern I'd have a favorite bait for the pattern. I fish a lot of the LIttle John Series, a lot of Lucky Craft Fat CB series (particularly the D20), and a lot of the Strike King XD series. It all depends on the conditions and the fish.

Being in the Midwest, all y'all are spoiled. If it's blowing less than 20, it's a light wind. I don't consider it rough until it gets to the 30-35 mark. My least favorite thing to fish in is freezing ran. It makes the boat deck slick and hurts when it hits your face. I don't mind cold, raid, snow, wind, heat, anything but freezing rain.

That's some of what was in my question in "that other thread". I can't understand why anyone, at any point, wouldn't go at it full force. Regardless of if it is for enjoyment or for money. If you're going to enjoy it, enjoy it to THE MAX, not just half way. If I go fun fish, as stated previously, it's most often to learn more about a specific lake. I'm not going to goof around, I'm going to go all out. In a tournament, it's imperative to have a limit to weigh, yes. However, it's also the mentality that I'm fishing for five good bites versus fishing for one at a time; see the difference? There are those that fish for one at a time, and that's what they get. One. Fish for five solid, then four, then three.. Keep that at the forefront. I NEVER go into a tournament fishing for a small limit. Never. It's counter-productive and it's simply not going to keep you on your max game.

I agree with you wholly, with the exception of the above statement. There are instances in lakes across the US that black bass species become almost pelagic, not relating to structure at any time of the year outside the spawning period. These situations are rather unique, however. In most situations they're lakes with populations of fish that are solely reliant on baitfish; herring lakes, in particular, are a great example of this. Catt, your description of breakline is spot on, as always. One could also get into the definition of a primary break, a secondary break, and a transition. When you consider a primary, it's typically the most abrupt change in gradient be it up or down. A secondary is most often relating to either a depression on the primary break, or it can also relate to a change in gradient angle anywhere along a primary break. Don't confuse it with a primary and secondary point. (IMO, defining a break as so, is somewhat unnecessary, unless you find that specific areas of a body of water are holding fish for a specific reason: A short shelf that sits in 11 feet of water while continuing the primary descent to 19') Bringing up that point also brings up the need to understand what you're looking at, be it on electronics or any other form. If you are seeing fish hanging at a specific depth in a lake and they're relating to the same break- well, there's the start of your pattern. Considering the transitions is entirely different, to me. The word transition is used far too often in angling to describe too many things. I've heard it used to describe everything from fronts to overall weather patterns. I've heard it used to describe changes in bottom content to change in depth and gradient. While all of these may be true, a transition in its pure form is simply any change in bottom content. It has nothing to do with anything else. It's based entirely on structure and content of the lake bed. Fish will relate to transitions at different times of year based on different reasons. Brown fish, for instance, prefer large rock transitioning to soft bottom. Green fish often prefer a transition from soft, vegetated bottom to a hard bottom lacking cover. Not all the lines of a transition will hold fish, and there are reasons for that, as well. Fish will tend to key on one structural element or another; when you find that situation, repeat it as often as possible.

That thing is sick, man. I can't wait to get my hands on one. I'm sure, though, the majority are going to be snagged up by the muskie guys.

Northstar. It's basically the only spinnerbait I fish anymore. I will, on very rare occasion, throw a Hawg Hustler, but over all, it's Northstar.

It's not a bad stick at all, I rather like it. It's a great frog rod, loads well, moves fish incredibly well. I'd be happy owning one and paying the price for it if it were the choice I made. I can't really say anything bad about the rod, but I've not fished it a ton; probably only a grand total of 12 or 14 hours.