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Thanks...helps to get a vote of confidence from someone who has both brands (even though it's the same company now Loomis is still American made in Woodland, WA)...I like your points on the quality...but don't agree with the guides being superior, as GLX and the Cumara both use Fuji SiC's--unless of course you're referring to the IMX series which I believe still relies on Alconite...which will handle most anything, but isn't as nice as SiC. Hooligan does the foam grip hold up? that's what scares me most, because from having one custom done poorly I've learned that cork/grip/handle is the hardest part to replace b/c to really be done right the whole rod must be stripped. Also do you have any experience with the Cumara 7'2" Med Ex-Fast jigging rod?..I'll be pondering for a while...just hard to step away from Loomis...even though they don't have the length and power I need, and I have too many customs going right now...my builder is starting to get tired of taking my phone calls on rods:)

I've never heard GLX being that much more sensitive than IMX, but I've only owned one IMX a custom built popping rod for drop shotting that I accidentally broke years ago. But most people say that the difference between the two is barely distinguishable; I've often heard the IMX is the best price point for Loomis rods. But agian I can't speak from experience because all of mine are GLX's that I now own or custom built NFC rods (Gary Loomis' new company). I'm trying to decide on a rod that is less expensive than my others to put a spare Curado E on...thanks for your input.

...does it stack up? I saw a review TT did about 4 years ago touting it as being as light and sensitive an IMX or maybe slightly above. I had one back around that time in a spinning configuration (cumara 6'8" MH)...but sold it and got another Loomis. i also heard that Shimano changed the rod/blank in 2010/11 and heard it wasn't as good anymore? For those of you who have fished both; and have a lot of experience with each, is the Shimano Cumara worth buying over an IMX? I'm guessing no...but they have a 7'2" Med EX-Fast, which intrigues me b/c I like the longer rods, and IMX isn't offered in a 7 ft Med action, only the 843 (MH)...... thanks

I usually just clean the bearings in the reel with cotton swabs alcohol and then finish with light coat of bantam oil...but your post got me to thinking. Called Mike at Delaware Valley Tackle...He led me through the process. I removed the bearings sprayed with brake cleaner (for the acetone) soaked in rubbing alcohol; let dry for 5 minutes or so, then put a few drops of oil in each on each bearing race....and WOW!! Haven't casted it yet but it freespools for what seems like an eternity. Going to spool up some Toray on it tonight and hope I can get out sometime do take it through it's pace.

Just got the reel today I will try to get some pics up when the new handle comes in next week...I'm considering upgrading the spool bearings this fall. I don't think the spool can be upgraded or at least not enough to make a difference but I'm going to look into it. I'm definately going to get some Avail Microcast spools for some of my Curoado E's and my Chronarch E's.

Not sure if the handles are available yet for the new high speed MG7...but it wouldn't help me yet anyhow because that reel isn't offered yet in lefty version, which is a head scratcher. I would have purchased it if had come in the lefty. Oh well it was only $50 to upgrade to a 4 bearing handle...heck that many bearings alone would have been at least $30-$40. But yeah I really wish I could get a longer handle for it, I really like the oversized handles....I think a chronarch handle would fit but it wouldn't have the bearings either and wouldn't be nearly as nice or light as a core handle. And as I said I could have got an aftermarket handle from japan tackle but it would have cost me almost 1/2 what the reel did....I'll save my money for upgraded SiC ceramic bearings after the season is over.

Will do Francho. Is it hard to post the pictures? Do you have to have them on a site to post them like photobucket? This is my first time changing out handles and stuff...I usually just keep the reels stock and have them supertuned and some ceramics added to increase casting. But I'm finding myself getting more and more interested the higher end reels and adding aftermarket parts. I've just found it confusing to know which parts will fit and which won't. And since I'm a Shimano guy (considering a Diawa PX Type-R though) most of the parts come from overseas or sites like japan tackle and it just gets confusing trying to guess which parts will fit and figuring out the currency conversions. I use to buy mid price reels only like the Curado and Chronarch then tune them slightly and save my money for the custom rods, which I do have some very nice customs that you might want to see. But especially now I find myself doing everything on my casting reels even drop shotting, pulling 1/8 ounce single tail grubs, tubes, etc...all on my lighter casting set ups.

You are correct sir: unfortuntely for me. Called S-Loomis this morning. Took about 4 guys to finally reach someone who even knew you could install bearings in handles, but long story short, you can't on the Core 100's the knob and pin configuration is different. Purchased a Core 51 (lefty) handle for my 101; they said same length and everything...all said only $50 and it's got 4 bearings. Better than the $120-150 Japantackle is asking for supertuned handles. Thanks for the info...saved me a lot of headache down the road.

F**k me! I just ordered the Core 101 MG today. I hope this isn't correct...

Thanks. The thread got a little sidetracked for a while--my fault. That pretty close to how I would use it; oviously I would be on the lighter end on the jig weights but 12 lb test is encouraging. I've really become attached to my 10 lb Toray Superhard Upgrade...maybe the 843 will work. Thanks for your input.

I've got a great builder I use if you decide to have someone do it for you...I'm really picky, he's darn good. I've had some bad builds in the past by poor buidlers...not a good experience. Just let me know. Do you like your Kayak? I've been thinking of getting one...I have a personal pontoon boat I use for smaller water but it sucks in the wind...

Do you have your a builder account with Angler's Workshop? If so, they carry all of their blanks and are a stones-throw-away from NFC's office in Woodland and can get any blank they don't have relatively quickly. I have 3 of their IM graphite blanks and they are considerably lighter and more sensitive than my GLX's...most of mine ran between $160-$175 before your 30-35% discount you'll get off of that. They also have a step above their Next IM, called HM (high modulus) and apparently are unreal...they run about $40-50 more per blank...I will pull the trigger on one eventually. The thing I really like about their blanks is the small diameter sensitive tips and the powerful butt sections....also they carry a lot of 8ft blanks that you can cut to the length you want. If you decide to get one and need help selecting the blank shoot me an email sam150s@hotmail.com I know their stuff pretty well.

Like I said I've already got 3 North Fork Composites Customs that basically fit my exact needs, and are longer, I prefer the 7'2" to 7'4" rods are my sweet spot. I just wanted to purchase one more Loomis MBR and was torn between getting another 842 and trying the 843. Plus I like the fact that if I ever have a problem with a Loomis rod, and I have in the past, they always replace the rod 100% free and ship back to me...whereas customs are nice if they break you really only recover the cost of the blank and then have to rebuild. But yeah...for the money you're right. I just like having the peace of mind of having some of my rods covered 100% instead of roughly 60% if that makes sense. You should try a North Fork Composites. They are make a sweet blank.

I'm a finesse guy....so I'm 10 or 12 pound fluoro on jigs. I also fish a lot of clear water and you can step up to 15 pound or heavier but you start getting fewer bites especially from the wiser bigger bass that have been caught before.

Think I could make 10 and 12 lb fluoro work on there...with big fish on and not run the risk of break-offs? I like my lighter tipped rods b/c they flex more and protect my lighter line when I'm fighting bass over 7 lbs....and I like the power my Loomis sticks have in the butt for hooksets; but would like to get one with a little more umph in the butt section for longer range sets....just wish I could get that MBR 843 butt section combined with the lighter front half of the 842.

Uhhh...not sounding promising for me. I wish Loomis made a GLX 2.5 power I never, or hardly ever, fish over 12 pound test. I've felt a MBR 843 IMX in a store and remember thinking it might work for 1/4 ounce jig and pigs, and 1/4 ounce jig head with spider jigs on them...probably a little stout but might work I figured. You're painting a different picture for me; sounds like the rod might be a little more powerful in the tip than I remembered. I basically never throw heavy jigs--like ever.

San Diego Jam, and the Shaw Grigsby special. There's also a knot similar to Shaw's that takes the wraps going up the line and then through the bottom loop; opposite of Shaw's it works decently also.

I feel that a 1/4 ounce inline spinner is too big for trout, and that rod is a little too stout. You're going to be catching mainly fish from 10-15 inches. 90% of people who don't fly fish for trout use Ultralight and Light action rods. I always prefered the feel of a long light action rod like a 7'6" Light action rod in a spinning configuration. You're casting reel will handle the light line fine but it will overpower most trout, unless you get lucky enough to hook into some trophy brown trout. If you want a high quality spinning rod that can double for bass fishing when you aren't trout hunting try a Phenix Ultra MBX 7'6" ML drop shot rod....it's rated as a ML but is much closer to a Light action. And can be purchased under MSRP and free shipping and no sales tax through tackle warehouse online.

Do you guys consider the 843 a power rod? Just curious; I know a lot of people consider it an all purpose rod, and everyone has their own style...some people won't jig with anything lighter than a Loomis 4 power, which I'm on the other end of the spectrum, and have always felt that's overkill. I mainly do bottom bouncing, tubes, senko's and finesse jigs 1/4 and 5/16 ounce, and finesse plastics; so I've always leaned towards the BCR 852 glx (have 3 of them), and the MBR 842 GLX. Everything else is North Fork Composites customs that are roughly halfway between a 843 and 842 in power. But I was thinking of getting one slightly heavier rod...but was unsure what I could use it for in my style of fishing. Could it throw 1/4 and 5/16 ounce jig and trailers effectively? And could I fish 10 pound flourocarbon on it without risking line breaks? I know it's rated at 10-17 pound test line, but I always felt the tip was a little stiff for 10 pound line and thought it should be a 12 to 17 pound test rod.

Francho bro, never heard of a slot head retainer nut?... ha...Anyways thanks for the great info....I was undecided on whether or not to put anti-seize on the hardware. Delaware Tackle was of great help to me over the phone today...apparently I can go with one bearing and leave one bushing in each paddle handle or replace both for even smoother performance, and it's pretty affordable. Pretty excited to get the reel should have it by the end of the week....then I'll know what I've got to work with. I think my Chronarch E's have two in each grip....and my Curado E's I think have the same but unsure?

Actually not a lefty just never saw the logic in switching hands after casting, and having you spinning reels and casting reels with handles on different sides. Why not just cast and set the hook with your dominant hand?...never understood that. Anyways thanks for the info.

Thanks Hooligan. DVT: how much per bearing?

You mentioned in a post that you could get a bearing to put into the handle on the Core 101 MG to make it feel more refined like the 51 MG...I've heard they're affordable. I think I'm getting a Core 101 MG. Do you know where I could get a bearing for the handle? How much it would cost? And are they easty to install? Going with the 51 if it's a big deal or too expensive to obtain.

You're coming around:)...no seriously though I can't imagine you won't be very pleased with the line. Especially if abrasion resistance, longevity (wears like iron), and sensitivity are the biggest attributes you look for in fluorocarbon. I shouldn't be giving away my secret (at least what I consider a secret) but this stuff is incredibly invisible underwater...it's just less visible than other fluoro's under the water. Just today I spanked my fishing partner again in a clean lake (and again I was in the back of the boat on the lake he lives on) the fish just don't see this line. If you don't like it message me and I'll eat some crow. Also I really think you should give Shaw Grigsby's fluoro knot a try linky: The big bass in my avatar was taken on 10 lb Toray Superhard Upgrade and he was over 9 lbs.

I was leaning towards a 50 because of the extra bearings...but wanted to be sure it could handle large bass and didn't feel underpowered if I threw medium size baits with it...sounds like it passes the test on those two issues. Going with the 51. Thanks guys for the input.