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I always wet my line, probably too well lol, as I've used strictly fluoro for years. I was tying 15# braid to 8# Pline Cxx, as the only fluoro I had on me was 12# or bigger. Not sure like I said it worked a few years ago with the super slick 8... I checked guides with a qtip, and found nothing that I could see. I am very careful with my equipment, and this is a rod used sparingly last season-basically a brand new NRX 852. I'm not sure (no pun intended), but I'm stripping this line off, I hate losing fish so much. I'm going to give braid another shot with Super Slick 8 and possibly SX1...if it continues giving me fits I'm out. I'm hoping to make it work out...as I don't fish my spinning reels as much because I don't enjoy mono...dumb probably I know.

It was breaking above knot, just not sure how far...probably pretty close based on how much line I reeled in in relation to where the fish broke off. Broke on hookset both times...with very little pressure. I did fish rocks the day before and snagged the bottom with my dropshot weight quite a bit, and thinking about it now I pulled the line hard to unsnag it with no problems...but today it was breaking on hookset and the breaks looked clean. I was not fishing rock today. I'm assuming the line has issues. My brother said he had a batch of Suffix do it to him last year, and he went back to Power Pro. He doesn't fish leaders. I use to use Uni to Uni. I'm going to experiment with different knots, and make sure I'm tying the albright correctly. But for now I'm stripping this line off my reel, and going back to power pro super slick. Thanks guys

Having an issue with my line breaking above the albright knot on Suffix 832 braid, 15# test. The break looks clean...I don't think knot came untied or anything. This being said I've only fished braid a few times, I usually just use straight high end fluorocarbon. This year I decided I would try braid on my spinning outfits. I used it the year before last on one trip, Superslick power pro, and caught about 15-20 fish before breaking my line. I can't remember if it was the braid or the fluorocarbon that time. I watched a few videos on the Albright knot. Could it be the line? Or the knot? Suffix 832, 15 pound test

I pitch docks a lot with light to moderate cover like you're talking about. I use Sunline Shooter and FC Sniper in 14 lb test for that scenario. I'm thinking of trying braid this year for a few techniques, with a flouro leader of course. I had too many issues with Yo-Zuri but that's my opinion, and others will swear by it, but it burnt me on a few big fish. Just my two cents.

For those who do this I'm curious how well it works? I recently bought some super slick 8 to try on a spinning rod. I'm getting ready to string it up...I know all about the Albright knot for leader connection and all that. My question is more around what length leader you guys use? I'm hoping to be able to use 8' or longer to avoid having to retie when I change baits. And do recoils give anyone problems passing leader knots through? It will be going on one of my NRX rods...and maybe one of my GLX's if I try it on two reels tomorrow. Also at 8' it won't be entering the line guide, but if I tied a longer one, would it pass through? Or is that something to avoid? On my Zillions (TD's not TWS) the guide is large, but on my Steezs and Scorpions the line guide is small.... Any advice helpful Also should it just be saved for certain techniques? I usually only run fluorocarbon, but was planning to try this in an attempt to save money and that rare lost fish on fluoro when it just breaks for no reason...and yes I'm using Shooter and FC, so basically the best fluoro out there...but all fluoro can break in my experience for no reason...rare but it happens. Also fluoro tends to wear out from being fished a lot, it seems to get weak. I know a lot of guys saying they run their braid for years... So I'm intrigued. Any help appreciated...and sorry for the long post.

True, but it comes down to personal beliefs and your own morality, and everyone is different. I personally would not have kept it, and never will keep a trophy fish...if it comes down to having my name in the books or letting a giant swim free, she's swimming off. I'll take a picture and let it stand at that.

I can't get over the hump: (Kansas fish) One right at 9# LMB A couple over 8# Several smallmouth in the low to mid 5's# Don't ask where...some secrets are better kept to yourself

And my fish-on-face is really weird in that picture...I look like a parolee

The water up around the outlet was around 60. And no nothing on the swimbait. I haven't been on in a while...I'm still recovering from that cold. Of course Clayton had to start at 7:00 am when it was 19 degrees with a ton of wind...I honestly thought I may get hypothermia the first 3 hours, I was underdressed. Around noon I finally got on a steady 4" senko bite and caught quite a few. By that point I was so zoned it, and so cold:) I didn't even think to take pictures...I didn't even realize Clayton took the one of me fighting the fish. I had a 3-4# bass come off right at the boat...otherwise a decent day...I thought 25 fish or so between us was good. Honestly 1/2 the day or more our eyelets were icing over about every 4 or 5 minutes it was cold! I really wanted a big smallie though:(

I've never been on one of these, but if there's room in a boat...I'm in. It will be around finals time for my MBA classes, but I can plan accordingly. I know Clayton, but it would be nice to meet some other local guys. Where did you guys decide on?

I was going to give you a short simple answer, there isn't. It takes practice. Find large underwater structures, ledges, creek channels adjacent to shallows, ledges, brush piles, docks. That's a start. Then learn the lake, the colors the fish like (can start by looking at water clarity) and which colors to use on bright days vs cloudy. When learning a lake I stick to my confidence baits: jigs, cranks, senkos, tubes; then I fine tune and try to locate numbers and size. This is such a loaded question...I could write 3,000 words and would still only scratch the surface. Keep fishing and more importantly keep learning from the fish and other anglers. Once you think you know it all, you'll stop getting better...don't do that.

Good price on that Scorp!

Just a follow up on this guys. I did a lot of research and ordered a bunch of jerkbaits from TW. I'm already acquiring a small arsenal of size 78 and 100 LC pointer minnow sp's. I also ordered some LC slender pointers, LC flash minnow, sp, a Duo Realis 100sp, an Ima Flit (which honestly I'm stoked about- it looks really sweet) I believe around 8 or 9 baits in all, most of them Lucky Craft, and all of them in the 4-6 foot suspending category with weight transfer system. As it gets closer to spawn time I'll try some shallower runners, but I already own some Rapala and Rogue floater shallow runners, actually quite a few. I should be hitting the lake with Bluebasser in a few weeks and break out the jerks...the baits not us lol. These are already getting addictive!

First I've never fished a Kistler rod, but I do know the Zbones are built on NFC HM graphite, which I own two blanks made from this, and it's a step above GLX close to NRX. As far as North Fork IM, that's where it's at, honestly GLX sensitivity and very good blanks. I've owned 4 customs built on NFC IM graphite. But are you sure Helium rods are built on North Fork IM blanks? I've never heard that.

If you're fanatical about fishing, and really, really enjoy sport fishing at it's finest: no question, unequivocally without a doubt, yes. Owning high quality sensitive fishing rods is an exhilarating thrill. Especially for bottom contact fishing there's something magical almost euphoric about feeling a bass pick up your jig in cold water, that you would have missed on a less sensitive stick, or that rush when a bruiser crushes your bait and you feel every head shake like an electric current to your fingers and hands. There are always those who will argue their Ugly Stick is just as sensitive as a GLX, but those are the guys who have never owned a high end rod. it's one of things you can't speak on the differences until you've actually experienced them. Much like the difference between driving a Porsche or sports car on open highway compared to a minivan, is the best way I can quantify it.

x2

I've fished Fluorocarbon exclusively since 2007, and I will second what was posted above, get the good stuff or lose fish. Second and most importantly fluorocarbon knots only average about 80-85% of line strength. So when in doubt line up, and don't set hooks to hard...less stretch also means less shock absorption. And to make matters worse once stretched to a point fluoro doesn't bounce back like mono, it deforms and weakens the line. Read up on the knots, as many fluorocarbon lines work well with different knots, I don't know the reason for this, but Tackle tour did a huge fluorocarbon 2 part showdown and you can find a lot of information there. As far as fluorocarbon goes, I only fish Sunline FC Sniper and Shooter. As it's expensive I always use backing and then just top the last 60 yards or so with fluorocarbon. Good luck. And I hope that helps!

I don't want to give wrong information, so I'll preface this with I'm not positive but: I believe he designed blanks for Sage, Seeker, Shakari, and Fenwick. There is a link to a cool video on western bass in the spring 2014 mag.

Sorry I scanned over this quickly but noticed a few things. 1st Batson Rainshadow blanks are nice, but are built in Asia. I do like their blanks for the price though Then there are other companies like Phenix and Dobyns that are American companies but source labor and construction from Asia. If you want true American companies that sell fully built rods, ie...not custom. The only ones I know of for sure are: Loomis Edge St Croix Cousins Seeker (I'm pretty sure roll the blanks here...) Falcon

Since the rod's have already been prototyped for a few shows this winter, and all that, the amount of customization was limited. Which is fair because it isn't a custom rod; it's just the first one they've built for sale. They did let me pick the guide size though (size 6 running guides with 5.5 tip top)...they didn't go micro but kind of tweener, their rods will have size 5's on them. Oh and the guides are Fuji titanium guide tangle free alconites, basically the only better guide is the same frame with SiC inserts...but at $300 that's a really solid guide. I may see if they'll put a cork foregrip on it, but I don't care either way. It has some new Fuji seat that isn't even available for custom builders yet.

Hey fellas, just wanted to give an update on this, because well this is really cool and unusual: Cousins Tackle a Saltwater company is just rolling out bass rods this year. They have some of their entry and mid-level rods up on TW right now if you're interested. Rods are rolled and hand built in Orange County, CA. I called to inquire about getting one of their new high modulus Xi rods, which aren't out yet...just had some questions. And long story short spoke with their chief rod designer and owners Wade Cunningham. He previously designed and built rods for Shikari (who use to produce really nice blanks for custom builders, Fenwick, and others. Anyways he told me would build me one custom since they aren't out yet...just the designs and specs. So I'll keep you guys updated, should have the rod in a few weeks. Needless to say being a tackle junkie, I'm pretty stoked!! And when he said these should be very similar to the old high modulus Shikari's...well I was sold! I've never had customer service so straightforward and pleasant to deal with. If anything I am extremely picky and objective on rods, so I will see it will be going up against NRX, GLX, and NFC HM graphite rods in my arsenal. Can't wait to put it through the paces! Tight lines

That's two votes for these baits and colors. I'll check them out. I have no problem spending $500 + on a custom rod, but find a $25 jerkbait a slap in the face...lol I guess I'm an eccentric dude! Thanks for all the input guys, I already have a more positive outlook on this, and more importantly where to spend my money. Keep the tips coming, and temps you guys like throwing them at. I have an especially hard time putting the jig down when the water is in the 40's but maybe I need to try these....

Well you know I don't have a problem burning money !! You've seen the crazy money I spend on rods and reels. I guess I would be more comfortable if I had more success on them, and that they worked on the lakes I fish often. I buy most mine off TW, send me some links sometime. And do you ever have luck on them at Wabunsee?? How early in spring do you start throwing them?

Not what I wanted to hear...but I expected this may be the case. Any tips on good colors and models/companies is helpful. Thanks for the input.

That's a tough one I throw so many, and love any jig, because I frieken love jigs! But if I had to choose, it would be a Skinny Bear Football jig...Black Angel Football jig is a close second. 3/8ounce