G_money

Unfortunately with Fluoro's you do get what you pay for...I use to use Seaguar products but had too many "bad batch spools" and switched. The best I've used is Toray Superhard Soloroam Upgrade...tackletour (hate the guys that run that site) did a Fluoro shootout a couple of years back and it's still up on the reviews section of their website. Long story short this stuff outperformed the others and I found the same thing to be true, and it lasts way longer than any other flouro I've used. Downside is it cost 34 bones for 164 yard spool. The best affordable option if you will in Sunline Sniper FC...but don't try either one on spinning gear as they are both stiff, but this makes them tougher and more sensitive. Good luck and tight lines.

I heard this many times from people who haven't fished the Chronarch...the frame is the same....that's it. Buy one fish it....then come back and tell me they're the same. I own 5 Curado E series, four of which are supertuned, and two new Chronarch E series...the Chronarch is completely superior in every measureable aspect.

The best reel I've ever fished for under $400 dollars is the new Shimano Chronarch 200E series reels...they have a $30 mail in rebate right now...do yourself a favor and spend the extra 20 bones....it's 3x the reel the Curado is easily. I own 5 Curado E series (last years curado) and swore by them until I picked up two of these they absolutely blow everything under $400 right out of the water! They are incredible...just like the Curado but much smoother and more refined...My curado's feel cheap and grindy now. This reel will flip a 1/4 jig 40 feet accurately! You really have to fish one to believe it. That's my two cents.

Hey guys...I have 3 BCR 852 glx's and love them. They have a soft tip but then taper into a very stout backbone for a 2 power...they seem to have the same amount of power as my old MBR 843's in the bottom 3 foot of the rod. Now on to the question--I just ordered and received a MBR 842 glx (haven't fished it yet)...I had one before but returned it for another BCR 852 glx b/c it seemed too soft compared to my BCR 852's. So I was a little surprised when I received this one and it's stouter in the last foot of the rod than my BCR 852's. It seems to recover quicker and take more pressure to flex the tip than my BCR's...now the last 1/2 (butt section) of the rod is lighter than the BCR 852....in fact the tip on this MBR 842 feels closer to a MBR 843 than my BCR 852's...(if I'm remembering right I sold my MBR 3 powers 1 year ago b/c I mainly finesse fish) So the question to you guys...And keep in mind I haven't fished this rod yet. Which is the real MBR 842? The last one I had (lighter tip than my 852) or this one which is stouter in the tip than my 852's? (both were about the same in the butt section--lighter than the BCR) I could be remembering wrong I ordered and returned the last 842 last fall, but I did fish it and it seemed softer when I fished it in the tip section and seemed to deflect more fishing a 1/4 jig and pork and it seemed to lack the accuracy b/c of the lighter tip. I ordered this for shakeyheading and fishing tubes, senkos, and light jigs...I expected it to be lighter?? I'm pretty sure one of these rods had to be a build error and was either softer or stouter than it was designed to be....So what is your experience with these two rods? Thanks guys. -Sam

Sorry I've been away from the forum for so long guys it's been a busy spring/winter... I'll try to be back more often. If you get a chance check out North Fork Composites blog on their website they have some pictures of some LMB's I caught late this winter. tight lines...hopefully someone has used this rod.

Anyone know anything about this rod's power, taper, and perforance? I've never used or seen one, but the length and described action sounds like it would work for me...just looking for more info. Thanks, Sam PS--intended use would be shakyheads, tubes and grubs on jighead, light finesse jigs (under 3/16 ounce), 4 senkos, dragging tubes

Anyone know anything about this rod's power, taper, and perforance. I've never used or seen one, but the length and described action sounds like it would work for me...just looking for more info. Thanks

Are Oneida, Conesus, and Kueka all to the South of Rochester? And is Kueka the one with Penn Yann on the North end? Does Oneida have Geneva on the North end of the lake? And does Conesus the one with Canandaigua on the north end of the lake? Trying to see if I'm finding the lakes right...? Ontario is way bigger than I realized.

Thanks Fracho. Really great info! I feel like I'm going into this with way more info than I had before I started this thread.

Forgive the ignorance but some of these lesser known lakes I haven't heard of; not being from the North. Are these all pretty close together? thanks for the info. Since my builder fishes eerie a lot I'm leaning that way but things are still up in the air. Also my style of fishing could come into play, b/c a lake that has my type of structure would make my trip more enjoyable. I prefer fishing rocky ledges, banks with quick drop-offs into deep creek channels, docks, and wood laydowns. Ditches, humps, and points are still fun but not as much as the aforementioned types of structure.

I agree with the Seaguar, but when I switched to Abrazx I found it to be much more abrasion resistant but almost as supple for spinning gear. Shooter is great as is Toray Superhard upgrade (a little better IMO), Also Sunline Sniper FC is great, but gets harry on spinning tackle if you go over 10lb test.

Bluebasser86 we should hook up some time and hit the water. I live in the Topeka area and fish a lot of the same lakes. I have two private lakes I can get you on both around 260-400 acres that would blow your mind for big largemouth...one of them has some good smallmouth fishing too. Hit me up at sam150s@hotmail.com if you want to get out sometime. My usual partner has been getting a little too many honey-do's on the list from the old lady and is hard to get out enough. Always enjoy fishing with new people.

Fracho Are these ranked in order? Tell moe more about Oneida and Onesus...don't hear much about them I'm intrigued. Also more about Ontario? Compared to Eerie,? Road Warrior seriouusly?...20-30 fish in the 3-5lb range!! Wow! Am I looking at the best time of year? Or is it going to still have ice on in April? Nice Pics Francho...if I ever figure out how to put pics up I'll at least have to upload an avatar, and post some pics. We don't have many smallies like that around here. I've only caught 4 smallies over 4.5-5 lbs. However I do catch a ton of monster largemouth...but they're just not as fun

I fish a lot of clear rocky lakes...and catch roughly half smallies and half LMB's. I use three lines, which all seem to work well for bottom contact baits. Seaguar 12 lb abrazx Sunline Sniper FC 12 lb Toray Superhard Upgrade Soloroam 10 lb -- expensive but the best longest lasting strongest line I've fished...and it has a higher breaking point than other fluoro's thus the smaller lb test...could probably even get by with 8 lb

I'm looking at you Road Warrior...seems like you've chased those little brown fish everywhere. Any responses would be helpful. I'm planning a trip. My custom wrapper lives in Penn. and fishes Eerie often so it's definately on the ist and I know it's good. But I'm also curious about others like Dale Hollow, Pickwick, lakes in the Northeast and upper midwest too. Anyone with a ton of experience traveling; I'm looking to take the trip in late March-late April depending on location. I want to catch some decent numbers for sure but would really like lakes that have multiples over 3 and 4 # on good days. Of course a six or seven is always the goal, but I don't want to travel to a lake that has a shot at a monster but usually produces shorts...I can do that here in my local stomping grounds. Thanks guys. Road Warrior I better see on here.

I agree on San Diego jam being the most versatile knot in fishing. I haven't noticed a difference in strength when tying it compared to the trilene knot. To be honest they both work for me. I was tying the double san diego jam with fluoro for a while when fishing jigs, but it takes way too long to tie.

Short fish if you like Sunline FC Sniper (I know I do)...you owe it to yourself to try Toray Soloroam Superhard Upgrade, long name serious performance. It's the most sensitive fluoro I've ever used. And it's WAY more abrasion resistant than other fluoro's. And as long as you don't get a lot of professional overruns it will seriously last a long long time...Give it a try you'll love it. JMO

I never said I've never had line break....I said I've never had a knot fail or line break right near the knot. I'm super cautions when tying my knots. I hooked into a 41 lb flathead when bass fishing with 10 pound seaguar; and it ran towards a dock...well I don't need to tell you how that ended. Lost fish line snapped in the middle like a firecracker. If a knot is tied wrong it can't twist or kink the line and weaken it right above the knot, but Fluorocarbon being more less supple than mono can weaken much further up the line that the physical kinking that you can see. My general rule of thumb with flouro is if you tie a bad knot or see a kink go up a minumum of a few feet and then cut it there. And if your knots are an absolute hack job get some mono and practice your knots before stepping up to fuoro or you'll lose a lot of fish.

Just curious are you only talking about GLX for spinning rods, this style of rods, or all rods in general? Because I have one custom and two casting GLX's and I love them....just curious. Shoot me an email sam150s@hotmail.com

In my experience when smallmouth are deep like he says they are they are schooled up and suspending...I've had tremendous success using float-n-fly in cold winter months on deep fish. I rarely use it when they're shallower. I've had better success on suspending jerkbaits, dropshots, and weightless senkos...but to each his own that's what makes fishing great. Everyone has a go to tactic in any given situation and it's often different than someone else's. I think this also leads to why one person thinks a lake stinks and another kills it every time out.

Actually just realized I clicked on your ad the other day and saved it to my favorites. I am a jig fishing junkie and would love to order some I'll give you a call later in the week or this weekend if the number is on the site.

Sounds perfect...sounds like we fish almost exactly the same style and if you like it that much for the stated purposes I think I will too. I was thinking or purchasing the 852 GLX spinning rod but usually only spend that much on my casting rods. Can't wait to get out and use the rod.

Interested in selling that 852 GLX senko rod...that is a very nice rod. I'm with you on rod length and action. I don't fish anything under 7ft and actually prefer 7'1"-7'4" for casting set ups. But for dragging tube jigs, pitching light jigs, and particularly sekos and shaky heads (especially shakyheading) I prefer a longer rod with more tip flex and power down deep. It allows me to control hard charging fish and steer them with the rod length. Plus you move a lot more line with a hookset on a long rod. Do you have any trouble getting a solid hookset when shakyheading or fishing weedless plastics/jigs? That was my only concern. But in my experience a softer long rod will still set the hook better than a short broom stick type rod. Thanks for your input...I was starting to wonder if anyone on the forum had used this rod.

I'm not going to get into an argument over the best knot for fluoro...everyone has an opinion. I've never tried the palomar with fluoro, but have seen it break too many times times with other people and heard directly from too many company reps for line not to use it. If it works for you then that's great. Typically the two knots that are the most consistent performers and the strongest for flouro are the San Diego Jam and the Trilene knot. i've never had a knot fail on me...but what many fail to realize is that tying the wrong knot (or not tying it well) can weaken the line as much as 10 feet from the knot so when it blows up on the hookset you blame the line when it was really the knot. Tight lines...and do what works for you I'm not here to argue. I would suggest you experiment a little and find what works for you. And always take time to wet the line throughly and pull the knot/coils down slowly and deliberatley so as not to burn or crinkle the line. Good luck.

I've tried many/most fluorocarbons out there and can 100% tell you 95% of them are junk. And another thing I've found through trial and error is you get what you pay for. Here is the LIST of the ONLY fluoro's I can confidently recommend: 1. Toray Superhard Upgrade Soloroam fluoro--expensive but the best and longest lasting fluoro available, and it's about 60% more abrasion resistant than it's closest competitor Sunline Shooter 2. Seaguar Abrazx--the original company that started fluoro this stuff is great and the abrasion resistant is great--also very managable on spinning gear 3. Sunline Shooter and Sunline Sniper FC Fluoro--they are both very good; the shooter is better but costs more And the knot you are using is fine for fluorocarbon. A tip to help with keeping the line from cutting into itself when pulling the knot tight is too wet it with saliva and then coat with a little bit of carmex lip balm. Some other knots that work well are the San Diego Jam, Double San Diego Jam, and the knot that Shaw Grigsby uses you can find him showing it on youtube. Uni knot also works. Don't use the Palomar with Fluoro.