.ghoti.

Tighten the drag star as far as you can. You'll find a plastic collar between the star and the handle. Push this piece in while turning the handle backwards.

Last February, Roadwarrior and I made a trip to Bull Shoals to fish the White River for big brown trout. When we hit the boat ramp to meet our guide it was 2 degrees F. Water temp was around 50, creating a blanket of fog on the river. The first thing our guide did was make a run up-river to the dam area. By the time we got there my mustache was frozen solid and my eyelashes were frozen stuck. I couldn't oped either eye for a few seconds. Of course our rod guides were froze shut every cast. Dip the rod in the water, make a cast, and dip again before setting the hook. Then I had something happen which has never happened to me. I had a nice brown on when my reel froze. The drag froze and would not let any line out, then the rotor froze and I couldn't back reel, or crank for that matter. I think that , by definition, is when it's too cold to fish. When your reel freezes. Of course that did not stop us. We fished the rest of that day and all of the next day as well. And we had an excellent trip.

Clayton, that was my step-son's hands in the pic. This trip to Trophy Country was his birthday present. He's being deployed in October and wanted a fishing trip before he left. He's wearing some kind of military issue rain gear, but I couldn't tell you what it is.

With ever changing fall conditions I'll have to divide it up. For shallow fish; spinnerbaits, jerkbaits and flukes or houdini shads. For deeper fish; deep cranks, lobsters, big worms, jig/craw. To target the entire water column; a gycb swim senko on an evo shake2 head.

You've made a couple of fine choices. I'd suggest also looking at St Croix's Avid series. I have both Avids and LTB's and there's not a nickels worth of difference while fishing. In either line consider a 6'8" M-XF model. For my money, in the St Croix line, that is is close as it gets to an all around power and action. Check out a Pfleuger Supreme XT spinning reel. Lighter, smoother and cheaper that the Stradic.

It's fairly normal to be unable to get fish to bite when they can see you. If you can, try approaching from downstream. If there's any current at all, the fish will be facing upstream most of the time. You want your bait to be moving with the current.

Got it recorded. dunham is funny. carlos is funny blue collar guys are funny. grundle, who do you think is funny? Britney Spears?

Thanks for the head's up. I'm gonna have to bite on this one.

I did indeed loose some fish out of the back of Lee's boat. I was using #12 mono in places I shouldn't have. I did leave my fairy wands at home though. :D

Oh man. That has to be one of the best replies I've ever read on this site. Bravo DVT. Bravo.

If you've ever needed an example of "there is no right answer", this is it. Compare my rig to dockhead's. I use a Kistler Helium LTA 7' med-light rod, R-Edition Alphas, 10lb test mono and a 4/0 light wire EWG hook. The Salty Super Fluke is on of my go-to baits, but sometimes a Yum Houdini Shad is better. For working through weeds and dropping in holes, the Fluke wins the contest most times. For outside weed edges, dead-sticking and fishing on the drop, the Houdini Shad gets the nod. On a 4/0 light wire EWG, on #10 mono, the fluke has a mostly horizontal drop with just a little bit of side to side wobble. On the same rig the Houdini Shad has a tail wiggle just like a Senko. It is deadly at times. Any other additions, shot, weight, swivel, etc, kills the tail wagging action. dockhead, if you try the Houdini Shad, you'll have to experiment with hook choice. Your braid is more buoyant than my mono, so you will likely need a heavier hook to get the same action.

I upgrade most of my Daiwas, but not with Bassart or ZPI handles. I've put TDZ handles on several, and a couple of other aftermarket handles on some. The upgrade to a 4BB handle is worth it to me. Particularly with moving baits. The CF handle is good if you want to say, "hey look, I got a carbon fiber handle". That's all it's good for, in my opinion. For what it's worth, I like the Daiwa cork knobs. Got "em on one reel. I don't like them well enough to pay what they're going for these days.

I like a MH rod for 1/2oz spinnerbaits. You have two choices; the MH AV and the Avid. An Avid M is equivalent to most other rod company's MH. I'd choose whichever of the two has the shorter handle.

sorry about the poor picture quality, but it was raining and the good camera stayed in the vehicle. The rig is a 10.5" worm on a 5/0 ewg. the hook point was not in the fish. his head was stuck between the hook point and belly.

Yeah, the dipper has a narrow groove in the top for the hook to ride in, the swim senko does not. Do yourself a favor and get some of those fin-tech swim jigs. I used to rig both baits just as you described. I much prefer the fin-tech jighead.

I jumped the paddle tail bandwagon a couple of years ago. After fishing them for most of one season I jumped right back off. Poor durability, poor hookup ratio and way too expensive for my taste. I've stuck with the Swim Senko and Skinny Dipper. I haven't tried the cane thumper, but it is one I've had my eye on. How are you rigging these Vinnie? I fish the two baits I mentioned weightless and tex-posed. I'll vary the hook size going from a 4/0 light wire EWG up to a 5/0 EWG superline hook. I fish them more often on a jighead. The Fin-Tech Swim Jig head is excellent for both baits. Nobody seems to stock these, so I order them from Fin-Tech direct. I also fish both baits on an Evo Shake2 head. I rig the bait like a grub on a ballhead, with the hook totally exposed. This works nicely for swimming the bait deeper than weightless rigging allows. And it also works very well as a bottom bait without having to re-rig anything. Fished like a jig or T-rigged worm, the Swim Senko on a Shake2 head has an action you have to see. Most importantly, the fish like ie. A LOT.

I don't care for the ACS seat. It's too small for me. The ECS is a better fit for my hands. I hold mine with all fingers in front of the trigger, with forefinger and thumb lightly gripping the line. My all time favorite reel seat is the one Daiwa installs on their Light & Tough rods. I still have two L&T rods in my quiver, and after fishing with one of them for a couple of hours, all other reel seats just feel wrong.

It's no small wonder the guy has a bum neck. He's been carrying that team for ten years.

If I couldn't fish I'd probably take up knitting. I'd knit sweaters for my reels and leg warmers for my rods so they know Daddy still loves them, and will be back soon.

Clayton, I once had a wife like that. I have a much, much better one now. Show your wife this post.

That's one of the stupidest things I've run across. And I'm still chuckling. Thanks BB

OK, that's it. I have all of the Rage Tail baits. I have the Rage Tail hat. I have the Columbia shirts. I gotta get me some of them camo shorts.

Thanks for the great tip. That should work on the reel seat as well.

I bought one set of Boca ceramic ABEC 7's. I used the reel all of 30 minutes before I removed them and then sold them. I hated the things. THEY'RE NOISY. I believe my reels should be seen and not heard. I do believe these are very good bearings. They're just not for me. I had a couple of Jm baitcasters, and I think they are excellent reels for the price. The best thing you can do for one of those is to remove the brake drum; the part that the centrifugal brake blocks ride on, and polish it. Use a Dremel, a small felt wheel, and some ultra fine polishing compound. Dremel sells a polishing kit which contains several types and sizes of felt wheels, and it comes with a small jar of polishing compound. This works nicely. I've done this to every reel I've ever had that had centrifugal brakes and the improvement is well worth the effort. Remove the drum completely. Do not try to polish it while it is still installed in the side plate. Have a wet paper towel handy. The drum is going to heat up quickly. Before it gets too hot the handle, drop it on the paper towel, wrap it up in squeeze gently to cool it down. You can't get it hot enough to do any damage to anything but your fingers. Take your time, and get it to a mirror like shine. Then get after it with soap, hot water and a toothbrush. You do not want ANY of the polishing compound left. Put a drop of oil on a q-tip and swipe this around the clean drum, and put it all back together. You will like the results.