NebraskaBasser

My feeling... it's like using any fishing equipment, technique, etc. for the conditions. I fish mostly farm ponds from a float tube. Most of the time, the ponds are VERY heavily weeded - moss, duckweed, etc. Between the "small" water, fishing from a tube, and the cover, I rarely make long casts. Try casting a weightless tube 20-30 yards - INTO A BREEZE - with a baitcaster spooled with 15lb or heavier line. It just doesn't work (as well). Oh, don't get me wrong, I still have my baitcasters with me... for the longer casts and/or with heavier lures (i.e. frogs). My point is... to use the "tool" that works best for the conditions I'm in. As for the pricing... yeah, it's just like everything else. It's what you can afford (want) to pay for what works for "you". There are those that would scoff at the baitcasters I use - Pinnacle Solene and Inertia Finesse reels. They have 7 and 9 bearings respectively and either are less than $50 (on eBay)... Are they the BEST reels out there? No, I'm sure not. But is a $250 reel really 5x better...? Yeah, for some... or maybe the angler that's lucky enough to get out multiple times per week, then the cost may be justified. BUT FOR ME, fishing simple and on a budget, I make do with what I can. BTW, the Zebco Omega is one heck of a (spincast) reel - VERY smooth and reliable, 3 pickup pins, etc. It's certainly NOT the type of spincast reels that I grew up with. And if you ever want to try a good reel without the Omega's price tag, try the Zebco 33 Platinum (5-bearings). It's a really fine spincast reel for $30-35. Tight lines...

I fish from a float-tube (don't own a boat), so to maximize the selection while minimizing the quantity, I'll store my plastics in Plano 3600's - that fit my tube's pockets. ON THE OTHER-HAND, I found whee I had accidentally mixed a couple of Elaz-tech (Z-Man) plastics with some "regular" plastics = a big melted-together mess! <doh!!!> So going forward, I'm either going to keep all Elaz-tech TYPE baits in their bag OR in their own box. Bob

My camera came with a TINY remote. So you COULD turn it off/on to save battery/memory. But, kind of hard to do (and misses the point) if you TRY to turn it on AFTER the strike and trying to play the fish. But the other way, you'll go through batteries (and why I chose the model that I could switch out batteries) and memory. Six of one and half-a-dozen of the other.

Bill, what software did you use? Did you like it (the software)? Thanks, Bob

Yeah, what Addict said. The GoPro is the best. I did a lot of research for a "2nd-level" camera... and the Kodak Playsport always seemed to come out on top. They have the ZX3 and ZX5. The specifications were almost identical, but the "5" was more shockproof. But to get that, you gave up being able to change-out the batteries. I was mostly concerned with "waterproofing", and since that was the same, I opted for the "3"... so that I could have a spare battery if the #1 battery pooped-out. Also - as Addict said - a tripod is best... assuming that you have something/someplace to mount/set one. If you decide on the hat-cam route... I went "cheap" again. I got a hat of choice and used stainless-steel parts (1/4x20 bolt, nut and two fender washers) and made my own. To secure the camera to the bolt, I turned a wing-nut upside down and used a bonded washer (metal with rubber fused to one side) to where it tightens into the camera base. Old hat (already had or get a new one of your choice) and less than $5 in hardware, and you're good to go! Good luck and looking forward to seeing that first video!!

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Have to jump on the Mend-It bandwagon too! I've use it for a while now... I keep all my used and torn plastics and "mend" them after I get home from fishing, put them back into their respective storage (after drying) and they're good to go the next time! I took my granddaughter fishing. She was using one of my hard-to-find Kanji frogs. (They're a soft frog like a Spro.) She had it tangling over the side when a big ol' snapping turtle got it!!! Most of the time, I'd have just cut the line... but I wasn't about to lose that frog! Got the turtle to the boat and reached down with a pair of LONG, long-nosed pliers and got the frog back. Well, needless to say, that snapper had made a number of "cuts" in the body... and it now sank like a rock. Took it home and was pleasantly surprised to find out that Mend-It ALSO repairs soft/hollow-bodied frogs!!!!! Just wante to point out that it "mends" more than just your typical "plastics"!!

I like a long "whippy" tail on my spinner-baits, so I use the back half of a 7.5" Culprit ribbon-tail worm. I shorten the "body" to match the shank/hook size of the spinner-bait. Use 'em all the way down to my 1/8oz. spinner-baits! I don't ever have an issues with short strikes/needing a trailer hook. IMHO, I think the longer, thin tail focuses the strike on the "head"... where the hook is. Your mileage may vary... but this works for me... Bob

Cool... and congratulations on your selection! Be sure to post here when that (your) episode will be aired!!

Wax? What wax are you putting on fishing line? Maybe the same stuff they put on fly lines to make them float?? Thanks!

As you're learning, the TUBE is a very versitile bait... let me add one more technique. I fish from a float-tube and fish lakes like you describe and "down-to" smaller farm ponds. In addition to the cover you describe, I'm guessing that you'll ALSO have weed cover of some kind - moss, pads, reeds, etc. I like to fish my tubes Texas-rigged, weightless... and fish it like I would a hollow-bodied frog. This obviously makes for a light-weight rig, so you might have to use a spinning reel (I'll also use a spincast outfit now and then) to cast it far enough. You can buy tubes that float... or you can make a "regular" tube float by inserting one of those foam ear-plugs into the body. THEN... just fish it like you would a hollow-bodied from, in the heaviest cover you can find... pausing in any little openings you can find. Does EXPLOSIVE sound good to you??

I would think that the FRONT legs would catch on moss/every weed and grass stalk? Do they float? When you cast them out, do they (nearly) always land bottom-down?

I fish a lot of heavy vegetation, so it's very important to me to have the frog LAND hook-down. If it doesn't it WILL "dig in" no matter how I rig/prepare the hook. Some frogs are more aerodynamic than others, and will land hook-down most of the time. For the others, I've found the Sebile "soft-weights" work good to accomplish that. I put just enough weight on to make the frog land hook-down. I would think that something similar would work with your rolling issues too. Otherwise, just use a weighted hook - like they use for swimbaits. Good luck!

At the basic level, each has its own presentation... each is a different presentation from the other. If you do a YouTube search on the JIKA RIG, you'll see how that rig puts the weight right under the hook/plastic allowing the bait/plastic to swing freely (unlike a jig) and the plastic actually floats up (if using a floating plastic). I - IMHO - think that it looks very realistic! You'll also find a couple of different ways to "construct" the JIKA rig... and I believe OWNER makes their own pre-made "JIG RIG".. I don't have a recommendation as to when to use one over the other. I would think that the Carolina rig would be better on a cleaner bottom... but will let the other more fishing-savy fishermen/women on this forum answer that question. Most will tell you to let the FISH tell you what they want.

Then, how do you "CAST" with it? (See first post in thread?) After my post above, I Googled "can fishing". They show that you tie and wrap line around a can. The line is tied TO the can pop-tab and then wrap the rest of the line around the can. To the "tag" end, they had a hook and bait (probably a split-shot or two too), and then pitch the whole thing out. The weight of the "bait" unwraps the line and then the can serves as a bobber. When a fish is "on", they jump into the water to retrieve the can... and the fish. Is THIS what the first poster was referring to? Only asking - again - because the first post referrenced CASTING. I was envisioning something similar to my Google search result (above)... but HOLDING ON TO THE CAN and allowing the line to spool off the end... LIKE a spinning reel. Oh well... back to more important things... <lol>

OK, for those of us that DON'T KNOW what "can-fishing" is, could someone elaborate? I've heard of spincast reels being referred to as tin-can reels, but I suspect that you're referring to something different. Thanks!

Is that three "single-arm" lengths (i.e. 3 x 3 or 4' = 9-12') or three "wingspans" (i.e. 3x6' = 18')?? I've always used about one "rod-length"... but after you tie off 2-3-4 time, it starts getting pretty short...

OK... the first few posts made it sound like it was the "end of the (fishing) world" as we know it. I still go by the rule that the "best time to go fishing, is when you can"!!!

"Might make daytime fishing a little tougher, as nighttime feeding will increase." Soooo... since the "nighttime" feeding would be greater... and Saturday the 5th is the Supermoon/perigee-moon, will that make Sunday's fishing tougher (since the Supermoon is on Saturday night?), or Saturday's fishing tougher (from the moon on Friday night)?? Is this "milestone" gravity-related like solunar periods, or only moonlight-related, making the local weather/cloud-cover the determing factor?

As kids, I grew-up using spincast reels. Good thing for Dad's to keep the kids fishing instead of untangling backlashes! <hahaha> As I grew up, I "graduated" to baitcasters when introduced to buzzbaits and crankbaits, fishing from the back end of a bass boat when I was in a club. I now fish from a float-tube... even lower than your "small boat/kayak" reference. Also because of the tube, I make much shorter casts and - a lot of the time - lighter weight lures. I don't know why or when, but I picked up a Zebco Omega Z03. I fell in love with spincast reels again! The Omega's are a seven-bearing reel and are ALMOST as smooth as my baitcasters. I can cast 1/8oz spinnerbaits and weightless tubes with ease - INTO THE WIND. It's wonderful to make ANY cast, with ANY lure, in ANY condition and not have to worry about a backlash. By "feathering" the line as it comes out the "cone", I can also make pin-point accurate casts. I can use it for weightless tubes for top water action, etc. When I go out in my tube now, I carry two spincast and two baitcasters. The spincast have mono for the lightweight and top-water lures (and the baitcasters have braid/braid-fluoro leader for frogging and cranks). Yeah, I'm lovin' my spincast reels!

Yeah, that's what I got too... for, I think, taking the SURVEY. I'm happy to get some of their hooks to try - especially for FREE... but I'm still waiting for the "pro-pack" as a result of taking the quiz and becoming a member of TEAM TROKAR...

Yep... don't have a boat. I have a couple of tubes - an Outcast ODC420 and a Creek Company Super Fat Cat. I live in the midwest where the "lakes" get a great deal of pressure. I can fish "ponds" that don't have boat ramps, so they don't get NEAR the pressure! It's a LOT of fun. Since I fish ponds, I usually enter the water and fish the shoreline, eventually - depending on the pond's size - I wind up back at my starting point, so it's very rare to have a long-kick to get to or back from where I'd want to fish. I don't have a truck or SUV, so taking ahything "hard-sided" would require a trailer or roof-rack (i.e. kayak). There are times that I'll hike a 1/4 mile to a pond... which would make any other type of "boat" impractical. The only negative I've found, is that you really can't "take a fishing buddy" with you. It's pretty much a solitary fishing experience. But, if you can find another belly-boat fishing buddy, you can car-pool to the pond (saving gas $$). At the pond, enter at the same place and then go in opposite directions. You rarely are out of sight of your partner (a safety factor too), and can still share "success"... although it might be a long-distance "fist-bump" across the pond. I've built rod holders for my tubes. I could take 4-6 rigs with me, but rarely take more than four. I like to keep it relatively simple, but there are those that have equiped their tubes with sonar/fish-finders, livewells, etc. More questions? Just post here or PM me...

outdoorsman110 - thanks for your reply! As I mentioned initially, I too already use KNOTS. I had just stumbled across this product... and am always looking for something new/different/better to try. It's kind of pricey for what's basically some glue and some tubing, so I was just trying to get a feel for it's practicality and it it's claims are true. I fish from a float tube and "terminal-knots" are easy to tie, but I have trouble some times with all the equipment/line/etc. when trying to tie a braid-to-leader knot in the tube. You say that you use/you've used it... does it live up to it's claims? smaller than knots (ease of going through guides) stays flexible (unlike if super-glue was used) stronger than any knot you can tie Also wondering if there might be a "poor-man's" alternative?

Like most, when I want to use a mono or fluoro leader with my braid, I use a knot to connect the two lines. I alternate between a uni-to-uni and the surgeon's knot... and I'm sure that YOU have your favorite as well. While "surfing" today, I came across this product: P-Line Stop Glue http://www.p-line.com/product_detail.php?id=637 - and is also carried at Tackle Warehouse. I found a couple of videos on U-Tube, and some demos... but they were NOT easy to find, and there weren't any reviews (yet) on the retail sites either. The product "welds" mono-to-mono, fluro-to-fluoro, mono-to-fluoro, and braid to either mono/fluoro. The reported benefits are smoother transitions through the guides and a "weld-strength" that exceeds the line strength and is "stronger than any knot you can tie". Just wondering if anybody has tried the P-Line Stop Glue??? Bob

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