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OkobojiEagle

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Everything posted by OkobojiEagle

  1. I don't understand the desire for such a large hook. 3/0 or even 2/0 would be plenty of hook.
  2. Quality over quantity... this philosophy started when I married my wife (33 years ago).
  3. limit your search to above the thermacline.
  4. Back the screw that holds the blade OUT about 1/4 turn. Bending the blades SLIGHTLY forward may assist them as well. Steve
  5. Why give them away? They are as good a beaver style bait as any other. Steve
  6. Tie it on tight! Steve
  7. Oh Bobby... First you cut the thingy off your cute little jig, then you refuse to give me a ride in your porche, next you'll be telling me Dozer and Richard Simons aren't one in the same!
  8. I use two stand-up jig heads, the E2 being one of them. They behave as advertised. I do wish Bobby would give me a ride in that Porche though.
  9. Oh d**n... you emasculated another one!
  10. FBL... is the Sniper your choice on spinnning gear? Give me a comparative review of Sniper to Trilene 100%. Steve
  11. At what water clarity do your bass stop eating?
  12. Just jam that baby's tip right into the carpet and give it a good bend to check it out! After you help the shop owner back up from the floor, tell him you read how to do this on the web.
  13. Ok, so what's your float? Mine's an ODC 420... I've been through the inner-tube phase and now prefer a berka-lounger!
  14. Dangerous isn't really a word I'd use for float tubing, but that said, you do need to use some common sense. Float tubing is best planned on a small body of water with very little boat traffic. You are not going to travel far in a tube so don't even consider a "run & gun" approach and in spite of what some would have you believe, a very spartan tackle selection is necessary. AND ALWAYS WEAR A TRUSTED PFD!
  15. Spiderwire Ultra-Cast... 8, 10 or 15lb test.
  16. Am I remembering correctly that the 1st generation Premiers had a pretty light drag max?
  17. I prefer an elongated hour-glass shaped handle with a one inch long foregrip sanded to a slightly smaller taper forward... but that's just the way I like my rods so I'm not sure why anyone else should care.
  18. To the Staysee guys... I too am a fan of the Staysee but have come to think of it more as a suspending crankbait than a jerkbait. I have better luck fishing it near lake bottom with a pull/pause or slow constant retrieve than fishing it mid-column in an erratic jerk/pause retrieve. How have you guys been successful fishing the Staysee? I'm looking forward to trying the Pointer 95 silent this year. It's supposed to run a little deeper than the rest of the Pointer family.
  19. Go back and check the Rapala site again.
  20. A key advantage of braid over other lines is it's strength to diameter ratio. I find it ridiculous to choose a braid that is as large a diameter as the mono you are now using. If you are happy with the strength of 12lb test mono now, choose a 15lb test braid or even a 20lb braid... diameter is a considerable factor in visibility and the thinner diameter braid may well be less visible than the same test rated mono or flouro.
  21. The answer actually is... you need to adjust to the equipment you are using.
  22. A sharper hook point and a thinner diameter hook will both make hook penetration easier. The least stretchy line will make hooksets easier. A stiffer rod will make hooksets easier. Increased rod tip speed will make hooksets easier. (this is can be improved with a longer rod)
  23. I agree they are reaction driven, so what makes this bait better than the others available today?

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