RoLo

I'm no rod expert, but if your favorite crankbait rod has a fast tip (quick taper), I'd say you're good-to-go. With jigging spoons, most of the hits will occur on the drop, so high-modulus graphite would be a big asset. Roger

(True Story) When we lived in Georgia we made two great friends: my fishing buddy Jerry and his wife Genova (were still the best of friends). Genova worked all her life for Delta Airlines at Hartsfield Airport in Atlanta. In every case without fail, Genova pronounced "Delta" as "DELTER". Trying to be funny one day, I intentionally called her "GENEVER", the equivalent of "Delter". She smiled at me, shook her head back-and-forth and said, "We love you guys from the North, but you talk funny". Roger

I agree with Dodgeguy, you get a heckuva bang for the buck with a Johnny Morris rod. Other contenders in that same price range would include the "Bionic Blade" and "Team Daiwa". Without knowing more about what you have in mind (casting, spinning, etc.) I can't elaborate any further. Roger

Yes, "Fishing Facts" is still around, and still superior to most bassing magazines. Spence Petros is no longer the editor, but still writes articles for the magazine. PS: Fishing Facts was the springboard for Al Lindner, who is now retired. Roger

I'm looking at the Poll graph at the top of this thread. Did I make a mistake jumping on a great price for a carton of Browning Reels? : ;D :

I'm with Paparock. I was first introduced to the Hopkins Shorty in the ocean, where they were popular because of their fast sink rate in tidal waters. The "Hopkins Shorty" and the "Diamond Jig" (ava) were the top two metals, called "squiding" spoons back then. We later used them in New Jersey and Georgia when largemouth bass were schooling in fall. They get down into the shad schools real fast. Here in Florida though most of the lakes are shallow and I really don't get to use the Hopkins anymore. Roger

Hmmph...I'm almost sorry I brought it up. This winter after the hydrilla dies back, maybe you can fashion a grappling hook and try to dredge her up. Roger

GOOD GRAVY, do you have a salt-lick on the bottom, or what? Even that yellow perch is an eye-popper!! Russ, is that your kistler rod that you're using? Roger

Better than knowing "which" color to use, is to know WHY. Our 'Color Spectrum' consists of six basic colors: Red - Orange - YELLOW - GREEN - Blue - Violet You will notice that "yellow & green" appear in the center of every rainbow...What does that tell you? With respect to VISIBILITY, the best compromise is yellow, green or chartreuse (which is a combination of yellow & green). When choosing colors from mid-spectrum you'll never be more than half wrong. Compromise is vital because lighting conditions often vary within a single retrieve as the lure passes through sun and shade. The best way to cater to the full range of lighting conditions is to choose a lure with both a Dark hue and Light hue, alternatively you may choose to compromise by using green, yellow or chartreuse. Roger

Actually, fluorocarbon IS monofilament. Between Nylon monofilament, Copolymer monofilament and Fluorocarbon monofilament Fluorocarbon has the most memory, Copolymer is mid-road while Nylon has the least. PS: You'll never get a straight answer from the manufacturers or marketers. Roger

Blow-up the balloon to the desired size, grab the balloon-neck right against the bubble and stretch the stem long. Tie a simple overhand knot around your fishing line, then slide the balloon to the desired position (just shy of weed depth). Lastly, stretch the remainder of the balloon-neck and tie a second overhand knot around the fishing line. Under a lot of pressure the balloon will definitely slip, and may require an occasional readjustment (only takes a second). As you know, bass usually wind up in the salad, but the balloon will bust away and not hang you up. Roger

By Jove, you've got it! The very worst source of advice are the lure manufacturers themselves. If they had their way, you'd buy every color under the sun, and a few over the moon (pumpkinseed candy & s298) Roger

PickerelPiney, I'm with you, I love catching chain pickerel. The scenery in your pictures looks so familiar. I realize that the Jersey pine barrens all look alike, but it reminds me of Bamber Lake and Double-Trouble. Roger

You should really consider "party balloons", because they have four advantages over traditional floats. 1. The displacement (diameter of the balloon) is adjustable, hinging on how much you blow it up. 2. Cork and plastic floats can get hung-up in vegetation, but a hung balloon can be pulled until it bursts free. 3. Unlike snap-on floats, a balloon float cannot damage the line. 4. Balloon floats are obscenely cheaper than commercial floats. The best balloon diameter to use depends on the size of the baitfish, and shiners can range from 4 to 12 inches long. On average, a good all-around balloon diameter is 1½", about the size of a "golf ball". If you'd rather use solid floats instead of balloons, understand that the float length alone is useless information. For instance, a 6" Slim Jim that's 3/8" in diameter displaces less water than a 3" ball float. Below is a good all-around float: Betts Billy Boy Cigar Bobber - 1 D x 3 L (Red & White Balsi-Foam) =============================================================================== Most anglers set the float about 30 inches above the hook, but you really need to set it according to the depth of the weed bed. Adjust the float so the minnow cannot swim into the weeds, which is typically about half the water depth. Roger

Gambler Cane Toad

With the possible exception of surface lures, the best colors to use are generally the most visible colors. Even if you deliver the best lure, at the best depth at the best speed; if the bass doesn't see the lure, you won't get a strike. Actually, there's a window of opportunity, and if the bass sees the lure too late, he'll likely pass it up (especially big bass). The correct color of course will vary with lighting conditions, which as a rule-of-thumb: DARK HUES: Overcast days, Night, Murky water and/or Deep water LIGHT HUES: Bright days, Clear water and/or Shallow water Be all that as it may, most fishermen select colors based on what THEY like. (My favorites are Fried Tomato, Pumpkinseed Candy & Motor Oil...Just Kidd'n) ;D Roger

Chris said a mouthful, it's very true that the best delivery during a cold-front usually means "small", "one spot" and a "long time" One day during a nasty cold-front on Farrington Lake, NJ, my wife and I were marking time. It was one of those days when you couldn't buy a strike, but finally after several hours I did manage to boat one "small" bass and lose another small bass. Funny thing, I felt better about 1½ runts then I might've felt catching a limit of bass on an easy day. Strange but true, this was the only approach that worked that day, and I've used it many times since with decent results: The lure was a 4" T-rigged jelly worm behind a 1/16 oz bullet sinker. Without casting the worm, I lowered the rig to the bottom, virtually under the boat. After the worm was laying on the bottom, I lifted it about an inch or two off the bottom, then moved the rod-tip horizontally about 1-foot to the side, then held the rod in place. I waited while the lure swung like a very slow pendulum (tip-top guide acting as the fulcrum). When the line was finally vertical (lure under the rod-top) the lure stopped gliding and I'd move the rod-tip back to its original position, then hold it motionless in that position. Again, I'd wait as the line glided slowly back to the vertical position like a slow pendulum. It was the lazy, slooow back-&-forth motion of the worm that triggered the strikes, although the hits were mushy and indistinct. Needless to say, this approach is most effective on familiar lakes, where you know the exact holding sites of bass. Roger

I'd request Florida and hope for Eglin Airforce Base (Steve Irwin's favorite). If I couldn't get Florida, it really wouldn't matter to me. Roger

BASS is not running on all cylinders, and have only themselves to blame for whatever comes their way. For instance, I subscribed to 1-year of Bassmaster Magazine and they tried to coerce me into BASS Insider. I declined of course, because it's the biggest Rip-off known to the angling world. I received two or three Bassmaster Magazines and then they stopped coming. It's just as well, I'm not even going to pursue it...They're Fired! Roger

I pitch with nothing but Spinning gear. Roger

Welcome Aboard MBeery Hmmm, very interesting!

Realistically, there is no jig that's safe around chunk-rock, rip-rap or close-knit boulders. Because of it's broader cross-section, the football jighead it touted as being the best for rocky cover. Although the football jig may escape the smallest crevices, it gets lodged in the larger openings that the narrower ballhead jig or arkie jig may negotiate (6 of 1, half a dozen of another). When rocks are properly fished, jigs are going to be lost. Roger

Okay, this will be the last time that I type this. For the life of me, I do not understand why anyone would have any knot problems with PowerPro Spectra!! I use nothing but a Uni-Knot with PowerPro Spectra for tying to swivels, to hooks and to lures with treble hooks (try that with a palomar knot). When a Uni-Knot is used with PowerPro braid, no glue of any kind is necessary (God forbid), you don't have to wet the line, the line will not break and the knot will not slip. A 5-wrap Uni-Knot will suffice, but if you're dealing with ungrounded fears that the knot may break, slip or whatever, just add a couple more wraps. Anything more than 5 or 6 wraps is a waste of time, but if it makes you feel better, go for it. When changing a lure during the middle of a hot bite, I usually tie a quick "four-wrap" Uni-Knot, and it has yet to fail me. Roger

It's probably nothing serious, but I would dismantle the entire reel to be sure that no sand particles got into the mechanism. Sorry that had to happen, I know how you must feel. Roger

They also smack bluegill poppers with a vengeance, then you reel'em in across the surface like little freebies ;D Roger