zachb34

Exactly what I was looking for, I appreciate it.

Well, I've talked to 4 dealers today 2 Yamaha and 2 Mercury and there doesn't seem to be much of a clear choice. Basically manual start on a Mercury with 5 years of warranty, out the door is right around $3,600 at the dealer I've been to before. $4,020 plus a battery gets me electric start with the 5 year warranty. Another dealer wants $3,825 plus tax and a battery for the same electric start motor without a prop. The only Yamaha dealer I felt comfortable with had a manual start with nitro assist tilt for $3,035, electric start for $3,400, and electric start and power tilt and trim for $4,104 but Yamaha is a standard 3 year warranty, not sure if I can add more or not. None of my choices seem strikingly obvious. Looks like it may just come down to EFI vs. carbureted, and I think the Yamahas look a little better lol. I don't know how much my boat would like the additional battery weight on the rear either. The motors both weigh in at about 176 pounds dry as it is.

Does the EFI start any easier? My carbureted 15 always had hard cold starts I'm supposed I even sold it when it took a good 7 pulls to cold start yesterday. What other advantages are there with EFI?

Any reason why? They don't seem too popular around here. Suzuki outsells them along with most of the major brands. I found a 2013 with all the gauges and controls for $2500 but no warranty on it.

I'm looking to repower my new to me Carolina Skiff J14. Im not looking to start a brand war at all, but my main topic for debate here is the Yamaha is carbureted while the Mercury has EFI. Is the EFI a noticeable selling point really? For what it's worth, the last Mercury service center I dealt with warranty wise was great, despite their crappy online reviews. I may be able to get more factory warranty on the Mercury through a specific dealer but I'm not sure yet. Either way I'm purchasing a brand new motor although I haven't totally ruled out the new evinrude yet.

Great response, thanks.

It's not just the one class. I'm scraping by with all the major prerequisites. I do roughly 40 hours of homework and studying a week on top of my lectures and work. The amount of work I have to put in and still struggle to truly understand the material has made me wonder if I'm actually cut out for this. Especially when I can't even take engineering related courses yet.

Hey guys, I haven't been too active on the forums lately since I've been so busy with work and school. Anyway, I'm a sophomore in college studying Engineering. I haven't decided which branch of engineering but I'm mainly considering civil, mechanical, and marine. I'm currently taking calculus 2 and physics with calculus at the moment. My physics class and professor is really getting me discouraged. I'm putting in the time, and not seeing the results. Along my search for an alternative major, I've talked to a career advisor at my college and everything that's piqued my interest has been engineering related. We've come up with a few alternatives such as getting an AS degree in engineering at my school, or another school about an hour south of me offers marine engineering as an AS degree. I really just want a career that I can avoid an office and paperwork and make a fair living to support a family and feed my fishing addiction. So my questions for anyone in the engineering field or who has been in the same boat at one point: What did you do as far as education? Where did that take you career wise? What's your day typically consist of at work? Would you do anything different as far as education or career choices? Thanks in advance to anyone who may have some engineering experience.

It depends on what state you're in and their laws. In general you have a few options depending on what happened to the title. If the boat is in the owners name, they have to get a replacement title before selling to you. If the boat has never been registered, you can get it registered with a manufacturer statement of origin and pay taxes on the retail price. If it's not in the owners name and they don't have the title you can apply for a homemade title which can be difficult and not the "right" way to do it, since the boat isn't truly homemade.

I thought about going this route, but I like Carolina skiffs they just feel safer to me as far as small boats go in the ocean and would like to avoid aluminum in the salt as much as I could. Bass fishing is my primary fishing but it can't ever hurt to expand my horizons.

So it looks like I'm gonna buy a J16 hull and trailer that's decked out and repower or I found a J14 with a 2015 Yamaha 25 that I'd like to add a rear deck and live well as well as a larger casting deck. Decisions decisions....

Anyone ever fished out of a Carolina skiff in freshwater? I know it's pretty common here in South Florida, but wanted to hear some opinions on it. I'd be looking at a J14 or a J16. I've only fished out of a J12 offshore before. My main concern is the fishability of the front decks. They have an angle to them that looks like it may be difficult to stand on for a long period of time. I'd be selling my tracker 1542 to get one so I can expand my fishing to inshore and some reef fishing as well.

I have many more, these were just the ones I use to get it done in the swampy areas around here.

Well, I've had my boat for over 2 years now. It's just a flat bottom jon boat and nothing fancy. I've always used a set of attwood rod straps to secure my rods while on my way to the water and never had an issue. A few nights ago, one came undone in the dark and my rods and reels fell in the street. I didn't notice for about 8 miles. It took me and a buddy about an hour to find our lost gear. The only surviving combo was my loomis IMX and curado 200i. A first generation Veritas also survived. I lost another Veritas, and a another IMX. both were too crushed to pick up off the busy road in the dark. Hopefully this reminds someone else here to be more careful than I was. My rods and reels will now stay in the truck until I'm at the ramp. This is a picture of what was recovered, but didn't survive. A Curado 200E7 a curado 200i. The curado I would work great if I could get another frame and handle for it. I guess this gives me a reason to but a Curado 70 after I pay for my fall semester.

I have one on my 1542 jon boat. Install was super easy. 4 bolts, 4 crimp connections, and you're ready to go. The only drawback to them compared to the regular Powerpole is, the spike makes going under low bridges and trees a hassle, and it sticks up high so someone on the back deck may find it hard to cast. It'll anchor my light boat in anything.

Welded are better, but they weigh considerable more and a 15 or 20 HP may be sluggish on one. They also cost more so it really depends on your budget. Catt has the ideal setup, but I'm sure it wasn't cheap. Let your budget dictate which style you get.

I have a 1542 without any of the issues listed above. It's a good boat and I would not use a trolling motor for your primary source of power. I have a 15 HP on mine that pushes a full load at about 24 MPH.

I've had all three models of the basstender, which is the older version. The 11.3 was a great boat, which is similar to the 120. The "room" you need to launch is really no different for these boats. Weight however, is a draback. I think my bssstrender was close to 250 ppuss dry. If you're not using a trailer, the 120 is heavy, but can be done with two guys on flat ground. My opinion is, if you can handle the weight of the 120, that's the best choice.

I have a 15 foot flat bottom and before I kept it in a garage, I also had issues with finding a decent cover. I can say to stay away from att wood they're entry level and are just a tarp. The ones at Walmart will wear out over a year or two but are a little better. I cut a tarp amd used ratchet straps that went all the way under the boat to keep it secure. I know it's not quality but I personally never found a real quality option for such a small boat.

I have an Endura C2 55# thrust I use on my pond boat and 15' jon boat. It's my only propulsion on the pond boat and I dont ever go out more than 6 hours at a time but it never really slows down on me. I'm sure I could get more time out of it if florIda weren't so hot. My battery is an everstart group 29 and I used a 27 before that. Not much of a difference besides the weight to me. I run it on 5 all over a lake about 100 acres. I never anchor so I'm always usually speed 1 and 2 to correct the boat. That jon boat will move a lot easier than my pond boat. I know I can get like 5 mph on my 15 foot jon boat but it's got a gas motor on it as well weighing it down and causing drag.

I couldn't pick just one, so here's three of them.

Kayak with a roof rack if you're okay with that. Other than that your vehicle limits you to the bank fishing. My friend did this with his Mazda and currently does it with his Audi.

I have mine mounted on the transom to my pond boat. It's at the perfect height where I can fold it up, and drag it through grass. I don't drag it on concrete due to ruining the bottom of the boat, but it's stored on concrete with no issues. I only have experience with Lowrance, but I'd think most manufactures would use a transom mount that folds uo incase it's hit on something.

Thanks a lot

All the wires go down the shaft to the motor, except the ones that connect to the battery. Which ones should I use?