Tywithay

I have an 8.1 and a 6.3. Only reason I bought either is because I got them for a good price. I don't even have the 8.1 on a rod yet, because I'm not sure what I am going to do with it. It has given me time to upgrade it a bit though. Added levelwind and knob bearings yesterday. I hope to see how much it differs in feel from the stock configuration my next time out.

Most lines are more than adequate. More often than not, I use Trilene XL and never have a single issue. When I am fishing a species/area that requires more abrasion resistance, I will reach for fluoro every time.

I've used both of those and came up with the same results. Mono absorbs water and gets less abrasion resistant as you use it. Tackletour has done a couple tests using both mono and fluorocarbon and their results showed much of the same, when comparing good fluorocarbon line against mono.

They're the same size.

Sounds like not enough weight to load the rod. Plus, a 200 sized Calcutta is beyond overkill for a little t-rigged lizard. That reel is better suited for crankbaits and swimbaits.

Fluorocarbon is FAR more abrasion resistant than mono, when comparing two lines of the same diameter. Mono is much softer and gets even weaker as it absorbs water.

The Zillion rods use the same SVF/x45 blank that is on the old black Tatula rods. Only difference is SiC vs. Alconite, and zaion reel seat. The Tatula Elite has a new version of SVF with some kind of nano-whatever. The Zillion is a good deal at the sale price, but it's kind of a downgrade from the newer rod.

That reel does not have bearings in the line roller. If it doesn't spin properly, it'll knot up your line in a hurry.

I believe it was replaced by the Tatula LT, which by most accounts is one of the best spinning reels in the Daiwa lineup, regardless of price.

I have several $200, and even $400+, reels, along with a couple Fuego CT's. I will still use the more expensive reels more often than not, but when I pick up the Fuego, it doesn't feel like I'm using a cheap reel. I have no issue setting it right alongside a Tatula SV, top of the Line Lews, or Steez. They're solid reels. I got both of mine for $50 and I'll continue to buy several more if I find them again at that price.

It's technically a medium, but I would look into a St Croix Legend Elite ES68MXF. Croix's typically fish a little heavier than their rating, compared to other manufacturers. At 3.9oz, it's super light and sensitive.

If you use the code "P10PERCENT" you can knock $11 off that price.

You pretty much hit on it already. Quality of materials and quality of craftsmanship (made in usa vs. made in china). Components also vary in cost. Titanium framed SiC guides cost far more than stainless steel with aluminun oxide inserts.

If you go the Steez route, make sure you have $1000 saved up, because it's dang near impossible to not want another one.

It is true. You can get the SLP G1 1012 or 1016 SV spool, RCS 1000 SV deep or shallow, SLP RCS 1012 SV, SLP SV 105, or the SLP SV 103. Just depends on what you're looking for and how much you want to spend.

Touché. Go to tackletrap.com and shoot Gary an email. If anyone would know, it'd be him. The fact that it has a thread in handle certainly helps the chances of one being compatible.

The BG does not have a removable knob.

I haven't used any of the newest versions, but the earlier model DC reels were not very good for pitching. I'm sure it's something they worked on, but I still think trouble-free casting is their strong suit.

I would agree. They're just as sensitive as any $160 rod. I'd compare it to an Avid, performance-wise, with a better reel seat. A lot of rods feel different on the water. You can't really tell much of anything holding one in a store, other than overall weight.

I have 5 and haven't broken one yet. Guess I need to try harder.

My favorite rod in the price range is from the company we're not allowed to talk about. It has a full-ish handle, because the reel seat is kind of split from the rear grip, but it's well executed. Starts with an "O" and ends with "men." It's one of the best $100 range rods I've used. Just a bonus that is has the full rear grip.

The line might work. It's likely not the line snapping, but the sinker hitting the knot and snapping it. If you put some kind of a sinker bumper above the knot to keep the sinker from hitting it, it will probably hold up. I prefer baitcasting equipment with a little heavier line for egg sinkers rigged in that manner, but your rig might work, as long as you're not trying to cast it to the moon.

I have the 6'10" MH casting version with a Revo Premier on it. I've used it for some small jigs in tight quarters and spinnerbaits. It's a sweet little rod. I don't think it's super sensitive, but it's about average for the price point. It's well-built with solid components. The casting reel seat is comfortable and, as you mentioned, the K-series alconites are solid. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another, though I wish the spinning version also had a full handle.

Some pieces are injection molded, others are made from prepregs. Not all parts can be injection molded, because the cost would be outrageous, or the shape just isn't feasible. As far as rigidity and longevity, it all depends on the materials being used and the percentages of each respective material. Lower cost reels likely use powdered graphite, or at the most, maybe 20% of chopped graphite. They have around 60% e-glass, and the rest is polyurethane. They will have more of plastic feel and may have some flex, with a tensile strength around 20-30ksi. If you up that percentage to 50% graphite-reinforced compound, it will display a similar tensile strength to 7057-T6 aluminum, which is 80-85ksi. The zaion/ci4 compounds are likely on the higher end of the graphite scale. I wish we could get more information, but I know they want to hide their proprietary information to keep other companies from copying.

It's a graphite-based material, just like zaion. There are numerous different ratios of resin:graphite, plus other materials, it could consist of. For people that think graphite is weak, I use it everyday to build airplanes that will take on FAR greater loads than a fishing reel could even dream of, and it holds up without fail. It's all about how it's implemented.