Tywithay

Obviously, the action is going to play a role in whether or not a rod is better suited for one technique over another, but the point is the same. The power and action of the rod, as well as the lure weight ratings, are the only things that really matter. The only thing that makes something a "crankbait" rod, is the slower action. Just because a company writes "crankbait" on the side doesn't change that.

"Technique specific" is just a fancy industry term to try and sell more rods for different purposes. A 7'0" MH is a 7'0" MH, regardless of whether or not it says "jig and worm" on the sticker.

For $300, I'm looking for a used Steez or Antares. I'd rather have a $500 reel for $300.

It's common on centrifugal reels and can be remedied with a little oil. Since your reel is magnetic, it's a pretty sure bet that it's a bearing. Flushing and reoiling should help. If not, they made need replaced.

Look on the google for crimping sleeves. You just pass the leader through the sleeve, then the bait, and back into the sleeve; then crimp it tight with pliers. They make special pliers as well, though normal ones do okay. A lot of saltwater guys use heavier versions for the really thick wire leaders.

50lb, no leader, should be fine for frogs. Senkos and creatures, I usually use around 12lb fluoro, unless I'm in moderate cover, in which case I'll bump up to 15lb.

Every time ebay posts a coupon code, unfortunately.

As stated above, less overall distance with better control. In my opinion, the best spool for a Steez is hands down the rcs1016. It offers a little bit of the best of everything.

I just bought a 2nd one today for $64.34 with an ebay code. No reel is "just for saltwater." Some may be better suited, but I assure you the reel won't know the difference.

I'd second the Fuego Ct.

In the short time I used fluoroclear, I had to treat it more like fluoro than a mono/copoly. I've found that you need to really wet the knot, just like regular fluorocarbon. I imagine the friction makes the fluorocarbon shell more brittle, weakening knots.

On my lighter setups, I usually run the spool tension a little looser than normal, with a little bit more braking than I would typically use. I also do quick, snappy, casts. You have to make sure the rod gets loaded, which isn't as easy with a lighter bait. A lob cast with 1/16oz jighead isn't going to exert as much force as a 1/2oz jighead would on a heavier setup. Your line should be fine for the rod and application. Another thing to check on is that you don't have the spool overfilled at all. Fluoro is very dense and the more you have, the heavier that spool is going to be; ie. more difficult for it to start up.

It's a personal preference thing, really. I prefer the magZ braking over SVS Infinity, so I like my Daiwa's better. Others prefer the Shimano. Can't really go wrong either way. There's an ebay code right now that you can get a good deal on either one.

Makes no sense to me either. A 1500 or 2000 size is lighter and has twice as much line capacity as you'll need for bass.

There are a thousand different combinations. You need to decide what matters most and narrow it down. Do you want the most sensitive? Or lightest weight? Smoothest reel? Etc.

I'd probably get the fuego and spend the extra $30 on line, lures, and/or bearings. I do feel like the Tatula is a little better overall, but there's not a significant performance drop off, if any at all in certain applications.

They are awesome reels. Though, I think it's worth $20, or so, for a TE. They're a lot smoother. The B is just a solid fishing machine. Nothing fancy, but they just work.

Newer rods with the Fuji TVS reel seat offer an ample amount of exposed blank on a spinning rod.

There's nothing in that thread that tells you how to get a $340 rod, and a reel, for less than $300...unless I missed something.

That rod alone is higher than his combo budget.

I really don't care for the paddle handles either. I switched mine out for the ABU Medium EVA knobs. They have the more traditional shape, that I prefer. I do think the Winn knobs would feel pretty good on a spinning reel. Similar shape to the Shimano EVA knob.

As far as I can tell, they're the exact same reel, except one is magnesium and the other is aluminum. It really boils down to whether or not saving .4 oz is worth the added cost (if any). I like the Hyper Mag a lot, but I can't really say I'd like paying more for it over the Custom if I got another. The only thing I dislike about either reel is the Winn knobs.

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Casting-Baitcast-Reels-Baitcaster/dp/B0775M9TSJ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524452934&sr=8-3&keywords=sf%2Breel%2Bcover&th=1

I don't know how the GLX 852s compares, but I have the NRX version of that rod and it's an absolute dream to fish with for tubes and light jigs. The only spinning rod I liked more for those techniques was the 70mf Legend Elite. Mainly due to the torzite guides vs. the recoils. Though, that wouldn't be an issue on the GLX. I have only owned a couple Dobyns and while they're great rods, I didn't find the build quality to be up to the same standard as the high-end Loomis rods.

15lb big game should be pretty abrasion resistant...it's over 20lb test diameter.