Tywithay

I think the Helium rods are fantastic. I think they're the best rod in the price point. Not the prettiest, but performance-wise I like them more than anything else I've tried at that price (like them better than a lot of rods that cost more than $300 too). In my hands, the sensitivity is similar to the GLX, and the rods themselves actually feel a little lighter. Components aren't as nice as the GLX, and the GLX may balance a hair better; neither are poor in that regard.

You actually want the least graphite possible, while maintaining enough strength to be functional. The more graphite you use, the stronger it will be, but it will also be heavier. Weight is a deterrent of sensitivity.

It's 100% identical to the Tatula Type R, except for 2 bearings on the levelwind, 2 more bearings in the knobs, and it's anodized blue. It's nowhere near the zillion, aside from the frame.

A Ted Williams that my grandpa gave in 87 or 88. Never could cast the thing worth a darn, but I'd use it for catfishing off the dock at the cabin. It was made in Japan, back when that was worse than being made in China.

I don't think they look bad, the green/purple flip finish looks better than that godawful white. I just don't care for the actions of Abu rods, so I will probably pass.

Do you get broken off often? If you're not losing fish, why change? If you are losing fish, then go up a few lbs. Fish size also has to be taken into account, you're probably not going to be horsing out any double digit bass in your neck of the woods; I think going too high will be overkill.

I like mono. Need it to float, and prefer having some stretch for any trebles.

The BB1 Pro has a higher line capacity. The BB1 also has a 95mm handle for added leverage. It's geared a little more towards power techniques than the Tournament Pro. The Tournament Pro will throw lighter baits more efficiently. For the techniques you cited, I'd probably go with the BB1 Pro.

KLX. A 7'3" heavy is just about perfect for those jigs. They're not as pretty, but I found them to be lighter and more sensitive than the Dobyns Extreme.

You can use the Steez SV spool in a T3. You have to remove the carbon shim in the sideplate, because the spool shaft is longer.

The products aren't getting better, they're just ordering from a better manufacturer.

I don't believe there's any plans for a 50 size. I don't even believe it'd be feasible, as the sideplate would be too small to house a spool.

Not gonna lie, it moved a little. This reel is basically perfection, all it needed was faster gears.

Yeah, Japanese manufacturers label their line that breaks at 10# as 10# line. American manufacturers label their 14# line as 10#, then claim to have "the strongest line in its class." It makes for a nice slogan, and uninformed people keep buying it and talking about how that line is so much stronger. Diameter is the only true way to compare lines.

The 13# is thinner than most 10# lines. I think it's about perfect for jerkbaits.

Have tried flushing them and using a different grease?

The SV103 spool from the Steez is slightly lighter than the SV1000, and the spool shaft is a little longer. I tried the SV spool and 1016 in a Steez and found the SV much more tame as well. It was not as tame as the SS SV though. I prefer the 1016 for distance, since it's a little more wild. The SV is great for trouble free casting and throwing lighter stuff, but I felt like it definitely had a stronger braking profile.

The Aird spool is slightly shallower. I don't believe it will give any performance benefits though.

You made a post yesterday that you were spooling 6lb line on your ultralight. Then you make another post an hour later that you've been using the line on your ultralight "for a while," and it's the best ever. Something doesn't add up, unless one hour is "for a while." I've actually used the H20 mono, but I'll keep my opinion to myself. I am glad you like it.

I don't know if this helps, but these are my own humble opinions. I will preface by saying I don't have any ties to anyone, so this is just based off my own experiences and personal preferences. If I miss anything, feel free to ask whatever you want. I have used all of the the rods you mentioned, in various different lengths and actions. I had a 71MF *** spinning, 73MHF *** casting, 733CFH Champion, 873CRR in the new IMX (never used the old IMX), and I have a 7'1" Deputy (4-power MH) and a 7'4" Dragger (5-power H) from ALX, both are custom built on the exact same Hydra NG blanks as those models in the Zolo B lineup. Reels used on each rod weren't necessarily the same, though I have tried several different options on all of them. The ALX rods have had Curado 200IHG and a Tatula Type R on them for the most part, *** had a ***, and a Stella 2500FE, the IMX had a Curado 200IHG, the Champion had a Daiwa Zillion 7.1. I've mixed and matched a little, but these spent the bulk of the time on them. The weights aren't identical, but they're similar enough I don't think any one rod had a huge advantage. In terms of sensitivity I would rank them ***, ALX, IMX, Champion. It's a very small gap between the 4 of them, and I think the *** and ALX are just splitting hairs. The Hydra blanks use a scrimless design, which makes them lighter, and is supposed to help transmit vibrations better. I don't know if it works, but the ALX rods are extremely lightweight, which helps them in the sensitivity department. As far as balance, which can also aid in sensitivity, I'd rank them Champion, ALX, ***, IMX. My Deputy balances better than the Champion slightly, but it's shorter. The Dragger, which is longer and heavier, doesn't balance as well. I put them second, because I am assuming the production rods will not balance as well as mine, due to the split grip and the fact mine use less guides. None of the four are too bad, but the IMX is far and away the most tip heavy for me. The *** and IMX both had pretty short handles, compared to the first two, so that didn't help them. Components-wise, I do not care for the Kigan guides on the ALX rods, but they're similar to the guides on the Champion. They just don't feel like the same quality as a Fuji guide. I do prefer them over the recoil guides on the ***. The IMX has the best quality guides, in my opinion, with the Fuji K-series alconites. All four sets of the guides held up fine, it's just a personal preference thing. Since mine are custom, I can't speak for quality of cork or anything of that nature, but I know the build quality of the ALX rods will be on par, or better, than just about anything else out there. The Zolo rods fish a little slower than the fast or extra fast from these other companies. They're not moderate action necessarily, but they do bend a little further down the rod than a true "fast" action, in my opinion. It hasn't hurt production in my hands. Makes them more similar to a fast action from Megabass, which is a little more versatile, in my opinion. I can actually throw crankbaits on the Dragger in a pinch, and it has handled them beautifully. I mainly use the Deputy for weightless senkos, t-rigs, and 3/8oz jigs. The tip is light enough it makes a pretty good spinnerbait rod if need be, though that's not its sweet spot. The Dragger I've used for crankbaits, frogs, bigger jigs, c-rigs, and small swimbaits. My Deputy only weighs 4.1oz, which is pretty good for a 7'1" MH rod, plus I added a full grip and foregrip to mine. The Dragger weighs 5oz, which I don't consider bad at all for a 7'4" heavy rod with a full grip and foregrip. The custom option is one of the main reasons I decided to try an ALX. After speaking with Alex, he's an accomplished rod builder that just happens to own a company, but he can still build a custom any way you want it. I had both of mine will full EVA rear grips, locking EVA foregrips, custom split Fuji ECS reel seat, spiral-wrapped micro guides, and a little bling for fun. They're nearly identical, except the Deputy has red highlights and the Dragger has blue. I can't speak on the warranty or service, because I've never needed them. I will say that Alex was extremely prompt and nothing but helpful during the custom process, so I can only assume he takes the same pride in his customer service elsewhere. Hard to see this one, but you can see the blue label:

Broke only one and it was while fishing, but had nothing to do with fishing really. Was catfishing with my cousin and we were sitting back in some shade. My rod started getting dragged in so I jogged down to get it. I picked it up and hammered back a hookset, not knowing my cousin had ran down to grab it as well. Nailed him across the head and shoulder with the rod and snapped it like a twig. I was mad, but it was too funny to be too upset.

If the sideplate is removed, there's no longer tension on the spool.

Good looking combo. St Croix makes some of the most beautiful rods, but they kill me with the full inch of exposed threads.

If I have a rod or reel sitting around and it needs a partner, I'll look for similar colored mates. If I don't find one to my liking, I won't sacrifice price or performance for the sake of a nice looking combo. This problem has mostly been alleviated for me by going custom. Get performance and make it look any way you like.

I have a broken rod handle that I put in a vice. Attach the reel with the drag fairly tight and tie on a hook. I attach the hook to my digital scale and pull until it shows 1/3 of the lines breaking strength (with braid I base it on 1/3 of the lines diameter). Once I put the reel on a rod, I now have the added buffer of blank to help protect the line as well. Reason I set it directly from the reel and not a loaded rod is because I don't want drag to pull when the rod is loaded up or when I set the hook. If I keep the rod high, I can control the fish. If he runs, I can lower the rod and line will come out freely.