Tywithay
Super User
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Everything posted by Tywithay
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You should always put what other people think before your own enjoyment.
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If the anti-reverse is skipping, it's not just because it's cold. It probably needs cleaned, because it shouldn't have a bunch of grease in it.
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Have you held a 50 sized Conquest? It sits lower on the rod than almost any low profile reel currently on the market and only weighs 7.3oz, which is lighter than a good portion of the reels out there (nearly the same as the Chronarch 50e). I don't think you'd understand just how small they are unless you see one in person. Not saying you should get one necessarily, just don't let the round reel thing fool you.
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Depends on the brand, in my opinion. Some may be better off with a medium, others a MH might be the ticket. Any ideas on a manufacturer?
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Free spool has just about zero affect out on the water.
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I prefer the medium-light for those tactics. I love the 70MF and have a couple of the Elites, but the ML has a much better action for dropshots; plus they can handle shakyhead just fine.
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I haven't used line conditioner on anything and have never had a problem. I tried it for a while and saw zero advantage to it. If you use a good high quality fluoro or mono, there's little to no management issues. Shooter Defier is the most limp, most manageable, line I have ever used, braid included. Haven't had any backlashes that I can remember recently either, maybe the occasional overrun that you pull out a few loops and it's done. A high quality fluoro will last two-three years without any damage at all, because it isn't affected by UV rays. I don't doubt that braid has some good points, but he asked if he is going to see any advantages that he isn't already getting, and I don't think he'd see anything to warrant changing what he's already using; unless he just wants too.
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He said he's already using mono and fluoro, but wondering if he should switch to braid. A good fluoro or mono on a baitcaster is every bit as manageable as braid and some good fluoros are pretty similar in sensitivity. If he's already using that other stuff and catching fish, he's not going to see any improvement with braid in open water.
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They make other kinds of line besides braid.
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I guess I just don't see where 30-50# line is necessary in open water, if you're not fishing for spoonbill or something. You can catch most bass on 6-15lb in open water without breaking a sweat.
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I agree it's a solid reel, but it's not $100 better than the Tourney Pro, unless the price of aluminum went up.
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What does it have that makes it better than the Tournament Pro or Tournament Lite?
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If they don't flex on day one, they aren't going to flex over time. The graphite won't get any weaker once it has been cured.
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The CI4+ is a little different process than some graphite reels. It uses small carbon fibers mixed with the resin to form a rigid bond. Most reels use a powdered graphite, which isn't nearly as strong. The Chronarch is one of the better reels I've used though. I like it a lot and the CI4+ feels very sturdy.
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I don't really think the Steez is the best value out there for high end Daiwa. I have had a few, but never paid more than $300 for one. Most of the high end Daiwa/Shimano can be found well under retail if you look around. I've used a lot of the high end stuff and a good portion of the lower end stuff, and it's still hard to beat the Curado for the price. I do agree with the Tatula though, there's not a better reel for $100 anywhere; I'll always have a couple on hand.
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This is where I'm at. Not loyal to anyone and will try just about anything if something catches my eye. Been looking at the Team Lite myself, because the knobs look like something I might like, since I don't like the regular flat knobs at all. Plus, you can usually find Lew's on the auction site cheap, so it's worth a shot.
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Lews hasn't designed anything since they've become relevant in the last few years. That's what I meant by what I said. They call a manufacturer and say we want this, this, and that. They don't produce anything. They are plenty refined, but when I hold them side by side with a similarly priced Daiwa or Shimano, they don't feel on the same level. Fishing on tour for 2 years doesn't mean a whole lot. It's probably not the same reel every week, and there's tons of every brand. Going by that rationale, Quantum, Abu, Shimano, Daiwa, 13, Ardent, and everyone in between make great reels because they're all used during the grueling tour season.
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Mostly feel for me, though I do seem to get better performance out of the others as well. The Lews I've owned seemed to be more finicky and feel less refined. The multitude of options for the big 2 are nice, because I do like to tinker. I also like the fact that Daiwa and Shimano are adding new features and trying to innovate, whether it works well or not; while Lews just calls and orders what they want. Don't have a good reason why, just feel like my money should go towards progress.
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A lot of folks like braid for jigs. If you maintain a tight line while working a jig, it may be slightly more sensitive than a good fluoro. I don't know that you'd see enough difference to warrant change. Plus, you'll be giving up some in the visibility department.
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All braid will fray if you're bumping into snags. It's just one of the drawbacks. I prefer 832 over Slick8. Power Pro is a good all around value, but it's noisy compared to 832, doesn't cast quite as well. Best braids I've used is Smackdown or Samurai, but I don't think I'd pay the price over 832; they're only marginally better.
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The Curado has a graphite sideplate too. Most reels today do. I think that the Curado beats even the best Lews reel, from the ones I've used. If you buy one of Shimano's actual high end reels like a Metanium or Core, it's not close.
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I had 12lb XL Fluoro on a baitcaster and liked it quite a bit. It's pretty similar to Invizx. Maybe a little less manageable, with slightly less stretch. It's good line. Trilene 100% fluoro is garbage, unless you like memory.
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If you don't like the knob knocking around, add a shim or two. The knob shouldn't have side-to-side movement, whether you use bearings or not.
