Tywithay

Anything over 30 is probably overkill, but it's still fun to buy fast new reels. I want the Zillion XXH for schooling stripers/wipers. I can fling a lure out there and if I don't hook up I can get it back out in the water before the fish disappear.

The US version is purple. There's going to be a limited amount for sale here pretty soon. You can pre-order one right now from the Tackle Trap. Should be in next week from what I understand. That purple one would look sweet on an Endurance.

Might check your line roller bearing as well. If it's seized up, it can twist up your line something nasty.

Hm. What kind of reel? I have 8lb Sniper on a couple Stradic 2500FJ and I've yet to see a single twist.

Bingo. It's one of the cheapest upgrades you can do and makes one of the best improvements. A few bucks and makes the reel quite a bit smoother compared to bushings.

I like 30 or 40. Thinner line cuts weeds better than the thicker stuff. If your knots are good, I'm guessing your line is breaking due to shock.

The Clarus is a no brainer for that price. 10x the quality of the Sellus and Lightning rod.

The stradic is a little more solid feeling and looks better, but I like the saros a lot too. The rapid fire drag on the saros is a nice addition. They're pretty similar to me, though the Stradic just has that something extra.

I didn't think they felt like zaion, but they definitely didn't have the solid refined feel of a Steez. Performance-wise the SS was pretty sweet though.

That's more the reason that finesse reels don't often have clicking spool tension knobs, though it has some merit on drags as well.

Most people just like knowing how many 'clicks' they've added or decreased the drag, so you can make precise changes. It doesn't really have any actual performance benefit.

SV1000 and RCS1016 are the same size.

It's not "better," necessarily. The SV spools have strong braking profiles that make them very easy to cast, with little thumbing. They're also very light, which gives the option of going more finesse, or filling it up to cast heavier stuff. The 1016 doesn't really have the finesse capabilities, but can still cast somewhat light baits well. It is a little more wild than the SV. It takes a bit more thumbing, but is capable of casting much further. The SV are not great distance spools. I actually much prefer the 1016 in every reel I've tried it in, over the SV. The SV just has too much braking for my tastes.

Daiwa V series ($79) and a Tatula that cost me $90.

The Sustain also has an aluminum body, while the FJ has a graphite body over an aluminum frame.

Should be added that fluoro will last several years as well. Unlike mono/copoly, it is impervious to UV rays. Sunlight can break down the mono/copoly, but a fluoro only needs replaced when it starts getting low. Some people complain about memory if fluoro sits a long time, but that's not true of the better lines and can be fixed by letting out the line with a resistance lure and pulling out the coils, then reeling it back in.

It already has carbon washers, so I don't know how much more surface the carbontex will create. You might get another pound. Maybe. I doubt you'd see much benefit. It already has 11lbs of drag, which is pretty significant compared to similar reels.

What don't you like about the drag on the Chronarch? It already has cross carbon drag washers, so you'll be replacing it with essentially the same thing.

Every line can be used as an alternative to one another. They all have advantages and disadvantages.

I like some copoly because they're very limp and have good knot strength. Not all copolymers are the same thing though. Some people seem to think that it means a mono that has been coated or mixed with fluorocarbon, but that's not always the case. Some lines, like Defier, are 100% nylon, but it's still a copolymer, because it's a blend of different nylons. There are others with similar formulas. The fluoro-coated stuff, like Fluoroclear, is slightly different and has to be treated differently. The lines with a fluoro-coating, don't have the same knot strength. You have to wet the knot well, just like fluoro, or risk weakening the knot. I would just make sure you find out what kind of makeup the line has, because that has a major affect on manageability, memory, and knots (the flouro-nylon mixes aren't as limp as nylon-nylon mixes). Also, keep an eye on line diameters. Some are touted as being "extra strong," but when you look at the diameter, they're much thicker than other lines of the same lb rating; are they really strong, or is it just thicker line labeled lower?

I use an Orochi XX EMTF for weightless 5" senkos. 12lb Tatsu. For the smaller ones, I use a 7' MF spinning, or my 6'10" medium casting Expride, with 8lb Tatsu.

I like 8lb Tatsu on it. Just feels right.

Keeps it looking nicer, longer. It also helps keep the filler locked in, to prevent pitting. It will make the cork just slightly darker, but not much. Doesn't change the feel much in my hands.

Internal 1, external usually around 1.5-2.5 depending on wind.

I'm glad they sold out of righties. I've had 2 in my cart all week.