Traveler2586

Here is one more; this guy is just plain nuts.... OUCH

IMHO, most Pro's don't care about the sponsors boats; but they must care about their bodies. When I had my Tracker I was very concerned about popping a seam or rivets so I always took it easy; but I had to spend most of my time in back bays and creeks. Now that I have a glass boat I'm more concerned about scratching it in old wrecks or old wharfs that are just at, or below, the water line at low tide. One scratch about a foot long set me back $600.00 The Coast Guard Boating Safety class taught me that personal safety meant a PFD and all the things that went with falling overboard; today, when I think of personal safety I think of my back pain. One day running & gunning can mean three days recovering.

X2, You want all splices soldered, and all connections both air & water tight; liquid tape works very well. The fuse & holder is a must. IMHO, Do not run the new power wires next to the trolling motor wires which are usually on the port side of the boat, you can pick up interference each time the TM is started & stopped. If possible keep as much distance from other wiring as possible; some wires that drive motors (live well, bilge) and tachometer circuits are noise producers; you want to stay away from them.

It just became all too clear !! Popeye was a yakker ! That explains everything, the forearms, eating a one can meal, wow

Congratulations on your save, a little PM goes a long way. Have a safe trip, and tight lines. P.S. Stay dry

Your correct when you say "unfortunately only experience teaches"; I think I learn something every time out. Unfortunately, experience lags events and the result is we suffer from our lack of knowledge, sometimes for the rest of our lives.

Let us know how you do, and stay safe. How the recovery going??

Are you kidding?? Batteries forward, and in the rod locker?? Can the battery fumes get to your rods & reels?

Welcome Alex, you've found a good place to hang out. Please tell me you don't have Snakeheads out your way! We have had many discussions on the Northern Snakeheads on these forums, take some time to search the forums and you'll learn a great deal. The best advice I can offer is to know the law with regard to the Snakeheads, many do not and that's a problem. Just the other day I was at the launch and saw a small group of anglers, here from out of state, standing around a Snakeheads laying on the parking lot - it was still alive! That's not good and could result in a fine. I've collected a lot of documentation I could share with you, just PM me if your interested. Here's a link I think you'll like http://fishwild.vt.edu/snakeheads/

Bass boats don't have a very good ventilation system, I believe it's referred to as a passive system, which means the boat has to be moving to get any ventilation into the bilge. So, both battery vapors and fuel vapors will remain in the bilge area while the boats at home. That's just asking for trouble if there is a loose electrical connection somewhere that could spark when the circuit is used. The Coast Guard had some good videos on what happens when you don't ventilate your boat; it's a subject they cover in their boating safety classes. Ask someone with a big boat and I think they will tell you it's S.O.P. to turn on the vent fans as soon as you step on the boat, then you make ready to get underway. I have a set of 2 X 4 blocks that I use to prop open all of my lockers when I return from a day on the water; they help to ventilate moisture and fumes; I don't plug in the charger until the locker is open. Question for those of you that use a boat cover; have you ever smelled fuel when you start to remove you cover? Yes???? IMHO, if you don't ventilate, your pushing your luck.

I was on the Potomac Thursday the 11th and only found some small males hanging on wood cover. Here are some water temps from my log; Broad CK was 64.3 at the mouth and 68.0 up in the back. I did find some green SAV in Gunston but no fish. Location Time Air Water Broad CK 13:10 64.3 -68.0 Piscataway CK 14:51 69.6 Gunston Bay 10:16 68.0 Mattawoman CK 16:36 87.8 67.2 Mattawoman CK 09:46 64.2

I went with the Cabelas Guide Wear two years ago and never looked back. This gear is now part of my personal safety system that includes good sun protection; foot, hand, and face protection. At times I'll have to vent the Guide wear cause I'm too warm. My Forg Toggs are only OK, but I can't count on them to keep me dry, I'll use them in a light summer rain. FYI, you need to maintain the Forg Toggs water repellent from time to time; I use the Nikwax Tech Wash and TX Direct from REI.com; you wash the Nikwax into the garment and then lock it in place with the heat of the dryer; this is good stuff. As for the Guide Wear, I just wipe it down with a wet cloth; I guess at some point I'll need to have it professionally cleaned inside & out.

I do, but does anyone in the younger group know Monty?? For the record, Michael can call me anything he wants.... except late for dinner Tight lines my friend. And take plenty of pictures for me.

Well since I can't recall anything about my mother (she passed when I was very young) I can't dispute that; but how did you know that when my dad was alive he liked elderberry wine?

I also have Frog Toggs. Just don't set down (like in driving from point to point) or the FT's will leach through. My first experience with this was in a heavy rain; you could tell exactly where I made contact with the seat - my clothes were soaked to my skin - but only where I made contact with the seat, the rest of me was dry.

Unless, for some reason, you remove you trolling motor at the end of the fishing day; IMHO you don't need, and want, a plug / receptacle setup. You want as few connections as possible between your batteries and TM's foot control; and with the connections you must have, they should be both water & air tight to minimize and hopefully eliminate oxidation; something you can not achieve with a plug / receptacle setup regardless if it's push-pull or twist-lock type. When a connection oxidizes that oxidation is a resistance film to impeed current flow which creates heat in the contact and affects the TM's operation. As current follows the path of least resistance it is then focused in small clean areas of a contact which offer the least resistance; this is evident by pitting in the metal of the contact that is now asked to carry too much current for its size. An oxidized contact can in fact eat its self up to the point of complete failure. I would offer that anyone can build a simple air & water tight connection by using "Ring Connectors"; a nut, bolt, & lock washer; a dab of dielectric grease, a layer of rubber tape, and a outter layer of vinyl tape (the liquid vinyl tape works very well) Properly assembled the connection should look like new after a years service on a boat.

Actually I like the duke in his westerns & war movies; but not his civilian flicks where he's in a suit, he just doesn't look right. IMHO

Thanks, next year.... No, too old - I'll rust...

No, not this year; I heard it's going to rain

And?

Tight lines everyone

Ya, there are just too many variables involved to say these indicators are anyway close or accurate. I am starting to look more to the Jonquils blooming. But in reality I'll look to fishing reports and my own on the water experience to know the water temps and conditions.

We use the same myth about the Dogwood here in Maryland; I even went so far as to plant a Dogwood in my yard to tease me onto the water in the spring. But today we have an additional scientific tool in the form of a Smart Buoy that gives a wealth of useful data. http://buoybay.noaa.gov/locations/upper-potomac.html The trick is learning how to use the tool.......

I've been trying to uphold my end Where do we stand on boaters and co-anglers? I'll be there & can take two co's, but I don't think I'll be staying at the park, I'll be coming over from the MD side [i think, it's too soon to tell]

I have to agree with you here, it is getting to be a bit much when they name the mfg each time when talking about a bait; they don't need to say "[mfg name] Rage Craw" every time they talk about the bait; or say "[mfg name]'s John doe" each time they talk about a guest; nothing wrong with just saying "the craw" or "john". IMHO, the end result is the loss of the viewer, and both the show's & host's reputation. All in the name of the most sponsor hits per show, i.e. each time the sponsor is pushed forward to the viewer. Hits = $