HuskyKMA

Awesome video thanks for posting it.

I use Coppertone Sport Faces SPF 50 and I like it. Seems scent free to me and it's not as oily as some others after you put it on. Might be the same thing MarkH024 mentioned.

This happened to me last weekend as well. Was fishing a lipless crank and not getting anything. Mind started to wander as I made a cast to a dock and I got hit. Forgot to set the hook though and he came off right at the boat. Next time I need to allow the mind to wander again but set the hook when the bite comes!

The good people of Woodland, WA who make those blanks and hand assemble those rods would disagree with you. Where those jobs are located is what counts.

Was this recent? What was the rod brand? Most likely you are still covered by a warranty. Or at least email the maker and ask for a replacement based on manufacturing defect.

Are you suggesting that it's no longer the record?

My guess is that this rod fits in between the Diesel and Max series at around the $100 mark. That price-point is quite popular and I think Powell wants in on it. There's a lot of people out there who want the best rod they can get for $100 and Powell can't get them with the Max series. That's also the style reel seat you see on a lot of the $100 rods (Abu Garcia Veritas, *** ***, Shimano Compre, etc.).

P-Line Adaro Jr. pliers are my favorite and I always have them on me. Good aluminum pliers with a built in line cutter that cuts braid easily. I also have a Boomerang The Snip dangling somewhere as well.

I'm in Camas, WA. Haven't done much bass fishing around here, been focusing on the salmon and steelhead but I hope to start learn where the bass are.

All I could find is a couple of articles that supposedly linked to the Clearwater Bass Anglers website, but all the links were dead. Are you sure they still exist?

I have a Mustang H.I.T. and I like it a lot. Very comfortable, a lot of times I forget I even have it on. Unfortunately I also forget to put in on sometimes. One thing to consider in the manual vs. automatic debate: If you get ejected from the boat at speed and get knocked out when you hit the water, who is going to pull the cord if you're wearing a manual vest? I think manuals are fine for kayaks, canoes, and smaller boats, but if you're fishing out of a power boat, I'd recommend automatic.

That's the way everyone around here pulls the anchor when river fishing. We use anchor pullers like in the video below. The buoy gets the anchor up, if the buoy goes under, you stop because you know something is wrong.

I'm in the market for some new rain gear as well. My arms always get really sweaty, so breathability is a must. Seems like the ones with two layers of fabric in the sleeves always make me sweat. A tuckable or removable hood would also be good. Would love to hear your suggestions (trying not to hijack, OP).

Can't really think of anything too stupid while bass fishing. When salmon fishing, we were on the outside of the hog line and had a massive container ship bearing down on us. After a few seconds trying to convince ourselves that he would miss us, we concluded that we needed to pull anchor and move fast! I motored forward quickly and began dragging the anchor up, but I started turning too sharply too soon to avoid the ship and hooked our anchor on the anchor lines of the two boats next to us. Pulled them into each other and began towing them up river behind our boat. Our anchor was on the surface under the buoy with their anchor lines tangled around it and we got them released pretty quickly. I'm not sure if they knew we had them hooked. That could have really turned into a bad situation, could have easily flipped one or both of the other boats, and it could have prevented us from getting out of the way of the container ship. We move much earlier for those ships now, it's not worth it to play Russian roulette with them!!!

You can't go wrong with a Colt 6920, they run $1100 for the base model or $1200 for a 6920MP with Magpul accessories. Pretty much the "standard" for a Mil-spec AR-15. Smith & Wesson M&P-15 rifles are also very nice and popular. Personally I have one BCM rifle that I love and am building another. They are more difficult to get your hands on however. Noveske also make a really nice rifle but they are more expensive, starting at around $1500 and up. DPMS, Rock River Arms, and Bushmaster are all lower level AR-15 brands. They may be fine for your needs, but they lag behind the others in quality.

Palomar knot for braid. Improved Clinch for mono. San Diego Jam for heavy mono or big (salmon, tuna, etc.) species.

Mustang H.I.T. is what I have and I love it. It won't inflate until fully submerged, it takes water pressure to set it off, not just getting wet. Comfortable and I've worn it in the rain multiple times without problem. I live in the northwest, and believe me, we know rain up here especially during the winter steelhead and spring salmon seasons.

There are much better ways to deep-water release a fish, including commercial clamps made for the purpose, an upside-down heavy barbless jig hooked into the lower lip, or even just a weighted milk crate. These are all methods I've seen used on ocean rockfish that allow it to properly recompress and are much better than "fizzing" a fish! http://www.adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=fishingSportFishingInfo.rockfishconservation https://nrm.dfg.ca.gov/FileHandler.ashx?DocumentID=36345&inline=true http://seagrant.oregonstate.edu/sgpubs/onlinepubs/g05001.pdf

That Eagle Magna III looks exactly like the Lowrance fish finder my dad has in his boat, purchased in 1997.

Add a pack of Strike King Rage Chunks to your wishlist, in either Blue Bug or Black Blue Flake. That will be a good jig trailer for that 3/8 oz jig. I will second the Carbonlite or Veritas as my top choices in this price range.

Just a lone pack of Rage Tail Rage Craws in green pumpkin. Gonna go to Subway now, getting hungry!!!

You can put them in their own compartments if you want. I like to keep them in their bags. If you're on a boat I find it nice to keep all of the bags in some kind of Tupperware or Rubbermaid containers, the flat 6" deep ones so that it is easy to organize them.

Dang wish I would have seen that before. Just ordered a normal Premier for a new trout rod. Oh well, I guess the full grip might be better for the few times I use a rod holder. St. Croix rods are great. I have a Premier and my dad has a Triumph. I like the Premier better through because it's make in America.

I've had good luck with P-Line CX on spinning reels.

There's no such thing a "breaking in" bearings and gears. The last thing you want with a bearing or gear is the tolerances changing in your so-called "break in" process. Doesn't matter if it's on your $200 reel or the $50 million of industrial equipment I'm responsible for in my job. Tighter tolerances should make them smoother right out of the box. If you're noticing a difference over time, it's probably because excessive lubrication is being worked out or because something is getting worn that shouldn't be.