skeletor6

The new Cumara's have a very nice blank to them and are very sensitive rods. The new Cumara's will be miles more sensitive than the Crucial's. With that said, I am totally on board with everyones advice. You are using it for moving baits, sensitivity helps in this department, but is more important for bottom contact techniques and the likes. I suggest you save that $100 and get the crucial, use that extra $100 for your bottom contact performer.

Thank you for checking that out. That is the exact same as my two NRX's. After I put my Curado 50e on there is only a 1/3rd inch difference. I am worried about a clear coated blank absorbing some of the vibrations. I always thought a bare blank was more sensitive than a clear coated one. Hence, the original NRX design. Do both of your 893c NRX's have the same performance and sensitivity? I have the opposite view, I am more worried about the clear coat finish absorbing and numbing down the vibration and sensation that the NRX blank has. Does anyone who is familiar with this subject have any answers? Maybe a rod builder, or someone with both versions and their take on sensitivity?

Your mentioning pitching small jigs and other small plastics. The 50e is not only lighter and easier to palm, but with the smaller spool makes casting lighter baits much easier. My vote is for the Shimano 50e. Maybe on paper it does not have all the bling of the STX but the reel is just a pure workhouse and it is noticeable and proven how it performs on the water. Casting light baits is a dream with mine as well as heavier materials. You have to go out and cast one of these to really appreciate what the reel can do for you. That smaller spool is a huge advantage in your situation.

You can't go wrong with 15lb tatsu, you can throw it in any type of cover and you do not have to worry about having your line cut by anything sharp. The overall feel with fluoro is more consistent as well, no belly in the wind or on the water's surface, leaves a consistent fall and semi-slack line sensitivity which jig fishing definitely involves.

Yeah that's what I am saying. Check it out I am pretty sure it does. If you don't mind, take the reel off and find the balance point of each and tell me if they are identical. I found the epoxied to be further down. And have two 893's in opposite color as well.

So I found the thread and read many others. I read a thread from the Shimano Rep BANTAM1 who used to chime in here I believe and it was acknowledged that the epoxy addition is not a big deal weight wise and adds about 2 grams of weight tops. My question would be how would the rods be sold identical in everything but color, yet have clear coating the entirety of a rods blank? So I guess the bigger question is, does a blank coated entirely with clear coat dampen the sensitivity versus the same blank that without it?

That's peculiar. You think added epoxy would make it weigh more. I read the interview of the green NRX release there and it mentions the usage of the exact same blank and components, and there only being a makeover in style. Also, some regards about "feel" as well. One would think any added material to a blank would add weight as well. It definitely changed the balance point, at least in my 1vs1 rod sample. I will try and find that thread thank you Lucky.

Thank you Jeb, Thanks for confirming the location of the rod specs is correct and so is the rod. That seems strange that it has a clear coat finish along the entire blank, compared to not having any finish on the blue. I was under the presumption that the rods were identical in everything, but color. I can definitely measure that the balance point is further down the rod on the Green and I would assume a complete epoxy finish would have affects on the rods performance. Maybe even making it a heavier rod (I don't have a scale to compare) I got the green to match my curado's, do you have any of the same models in opposite colors and have yuo noticed any difference in performance? My Shimano Cumulus rod is unfinished after the first guide and besides my other blue NRX's those are the only high end ones I can compare it to and they are all unfinished besides the epoxy on the guides. Bottom Line, the balance point is definitely changed between the two NRX 893's, I was wondering if the clear coat or epoxy finish throughout the entire blank likely added weight and decreased performance? That's what I was thinking as well. My blue 893 has blue wraps with a green thread in it, but the difference between the green and blue is definitely noticeable. There's green paint that runs the length of the rod giving it the green color to the blank and also an epoxy coating it entirely. No bare blank on the green at all.

Hey Guys, So, I've had a Blue NRX 893c for a while now and also a NRX 803c which is also blue. Both of them were very similar in design and epoxy locations. I knew going into buying the NRX 893c Green that it was green, but I had figured that it would be identical to the Blue NRX, just with Green Accents instead of Blue. So, I recieved my Green NRX 893c and I was shocked to see that Epoxy runs completely along the entire blank. Also, the location of the Model and suggested line strength and lure weights was located between the split grip, but I did not find that to matter. However, the epoxy running along the entire length of the blank has me worried. I thought when I did readings about the Green NRX's that they were supposed to just have a new look, but be the same thing. Doesn't having epoxy along the entire blank change some features about the rod itself? I did some simple balance checks and the green NRX without a reel on it balances almost an inch further away from the reel seat. The NRX with a curado 50e on each of them have almost identical balance points with the green NRX being just 1/8th of an inch further down the shaft. So what I am saying is I think the epoxy added some weight to the blank and the overall rod. What are your guys thoughts?

I like my curado 50e. Having the right rod really helps. My NRX 893 is a senko machine, but in reality senkos are pretty dense and heavy most casting equipment will do fine.

Unless your flipping heavy cover I think 15lb yozuri with about 29lb breaking strength is overkill. Get 12 lb and call it a day. Fenwick Elite tech smallmouth rods perform above their price definitely I only know about the spinning versions though. I like how the curado e series fits in my hand better than the g I would choose the e. If you want the best rod and reel for your money buy used. A lot of rods have lifetime warranties so you could get a nice used rod and maximize that $120 limit. There's a lot of good choices in the sub $200 range that you could find used for $120

I might be on the outside here, but I choose sensitivity over power. Somethings to be said for 7 foot 1 inch rod weighing about 3.67 ounces. Sure the taper is slower but I think the 715 would make a great and versatile all around rod. The mew recons are supposed to be a bit more true to their rating and slightly faster than the old. Either way, the old 715 has great reviews and a cool look. I am not knocking the m1 I would just assume that the recon is more sensitive. I would like to hear if its not for my own knowledge I don't own a M1 and seems to be a very popular series.

Some recreational chemistry? That's what I'm talking about. From experience nitrations in my advanced organic chemistry lab were the most...interesting Scales are cheap you will not need accuracy better than a tenth of a gram. 28 grams is an ounce go from there. You would be surprised the actual weight of some of your equipment. Someone on these forums did some weighing of common spinnerbaits and the results were not with what the manufacturer claimed. eBays a good resource...don't pay more than $20 also you can double to weigh food and postage. But the kind or scale you are looking for probably won't be good for anything over a pound for mailing purposes. Postage scales aren't good for lightweight items. But this is coming from someone who deals with ten thousandths of a gram accuracy in chem class. Those involve enclosed casings and are far overkill.....yeah I'm rambling good luck!

X2 make sure the fast version like he said

Trilene XL is the mono line I would use if I were you. The handling of fluoro can be suspect on cheaper fluorocarbon lines. If you are new to baitcasting, then backlashes are to be expected. Line that handles well will backlash less. Thus, easier handling line is better for a beginner. If you bring price into the equation, it would suck losing 50 yards of a premium fluoro because of a backlash. A line like seaguar tatsu will handle very well and if you are not concerned with price you will be getting a much better line than trilene xl for everything, but topwater. Fluoro sinks so is not a topwater lure line and braid is not an option for any treble hooked lures because braid has zero abrasion resistance and those hooks will tear it apart. Seriously if you are new to baitcasting Trilene XL is the way to go. I think most of us started on mono at some point and had no problem catching fish with it. Plus it can do everything from top water to cranks to worms and handles well and is relatively cheap.

I like the versatility of using braid with a leader. Such a setup could allow one to fish just about every technique. Although saying it is the "best of both worlds" is misleading. You get all of the benefits of braid, and the near invisibility of fluorocarbon, while also adding another knot to the system, but personally I dont have a problem with the knot since the alberto works just fine. Its a fact that braid does not transmit on a slack line because of belly and that fluorocarbon does transmit on a slack line. A fluorocarbon leader does not solve that issue. Undoubtedly braid gives the ultimate in sensitivity while on a tight line. Just while fishing a jig, t-rig, dropshot, wacky senko, jackall flickshake, and twitching a fluke there will be slack lilne throughout the process and bass often hit during those times and having the sensitivity during those times is essential to me. Also braid has no abrasion resistance and having a leader does not completely solve that problem. And while even using the higher diameter braids, at some point it will dig into the spool maybe from a snag or fighting a fish. Once this happens it will cause break offs, backlashes, lost fish, and if you fish braid long enough you will encounter this. Also braid is much more likely to tip wrap than fluoro. Furthermore, braid floats, so if you are using lighter baits you are going to have extreme belly going as the bait is falling leading to having to watch the floating braid in order to see a strike, because you certainly won't feel the strike. If the conditions are windy braids behavior gets even worse. Fluorocarbon on the other hand has much more consistent casting behavior and allows for a more consistent feel all around. The line sinks, removing the issues with lighter baits and it also transmits sensitivity on slack line hits far better. The entirety of the line has refraction indexes similar to water removing visibility problems and the line will not bleed its color like braid does. Also, there is no worry about the line popping while fishing your lure through wood or rocks. I will not refute the fact that dragging with braid will give the best sensitivity that one can get and that adding a fluorocarbon leader will allow for the line to have less visibility which is a good thing especially in clear waters. Braid also will last longer and is good for growing through thick grassy situations. Also, braid is great for frogging and I would not use fluorocarbon for that or any floating techniques for that matter. Also, if you buy cheap fluorocarbon you will be severely disappointed and think it sucks. Not all fluorocarbon is created equal and many have terrible manageability, stretch, knot strength and many other issues. Tatsu is great in every aspect and when backed with cheap mono is actually not that costly, still braid is cheaper. Pick your poison!

No doubt go with Seaguar Tatsu in 12lb unless you are fishing the really heavy cover. If you are looking to buy braid I would say Daiwa Samurai and I like the 55lb personally. I only use braid for frogging or if the area is extremely grassy. This rarely happens though so you will see me 99% of the time with premium fluorocarbon. Do not even bother with the cheaper fluorocarbon it does not pay off and you will no enjoy using it. I speak from experience

12lb Seaguar Tatsu on my casting gear and 6-8lb Seaguar Tatsu on my spinning gear. I have not found a more pleasant line to fish with in any conditions. Seaguar sees through the entire manufacturing process of their lines unlike many other companies. If I was on a budget I would probably use yozuri and feel its a good line for spinning gear especially, since you can get 4lb line with 8lb breaking strength. Its hard to knock the stuff for the price it is sold at. I have 400 yards left at least and I spent $12. Roadwarrior got me into that line too!

Thank you Jeb. That is what I was looking for, drop shotting in my clear waters will be important and this rod needs to do it very well. How is the sensitivity with the 822SYR? and how does it compare to other spinning rods that you have used? Also, what reel balances the 822SYR the best? Should I be looking at a lighter weight one such as a Stradic Ci4 2500 or a Stradic2500 FJ? Thanks!

Hey guys, I talked to someone who gets his hands on a load of NRX rods and recommended the NRX 822 SYR as the best all around spinning rod in the lineup. I was wondering if anyone here on the forums has used this rod and what their experience with it is? Also, I was wondering how it performs for drop shotting? I was steered away from the DSR because everyone I talked to said it was only good for drop shotting because of its VERY soft tip and that the SYR was more of a middle ground between the 822DSR and the 852S NRX. because its tip was not as soft as the DSR's but not as stiff and tough as the 852. I'm looking at mainly dropshotting and also throwing 1/8oz flickshakes, shakeyheads, and 1/8 oz jigging. Drop shot being used the most followed by flickshakes. Thanks!

Thanks RW, I think from what I have read, there seems to be variances in the balances of St. Croix's rods between models and year by year. A fast action would be far suitable for spinnerbaits. I have an IMX MBR844 which I am guessing would be similar in power to your LEC 70MHF, but not sensitivity. I am using this as my 1/2oz-3/4oz spinnerbait rod. It is perfect for 1/2 oz and works fine for 3/4oz. I was hoping this LTB had more power to it, going off of what most folks had to say about St. Croix and their power ratings. From what Ghoti an owner of Many St. Croix said this rod plays truer to power ratings. Unfortunately I have too many rods for this job. What sets it apart is the action on it. Sincerely unique and fun to mess around with. Unlike any rod I've fished, with the right weighted bait on there it just flings them a mile. I bet with the cover I fish it would serve okay as a frog rod, since it is mainly just lillipads. The only problem is that when you have 2 NRX's and a Cumulus that handle the same weighted baits basically, its tough to find its "niche". Hence my opening statement. I am curious to try the Xtreme and/or Elite series. I really need a rod for the 1/2-1oz, but right now I am looking at an all around spinning outfit. for the really light stuff and drop shots. I've read some good reviews on the MLXF rods and after experience with the build and overall quality of the Legend Tournament series I may try another XF action on a spinning outfit, I just need one that fits well with what I have.

I could see it being a good rod for this purpose. Great post Ghoti!.....Many people have their own definitions of what "finesse" is and what it means. That is why in my opening post I said "what I would consider finesse jig". I would answer your question by saying that basically anything 1/4oz and below. I consider a 3/8oz jig to be what my mean is and what the middle ground is for the jigs. On the rod it is labelled "finesse jig", but yet has a suggested range of 5/16-3/4oz. So what St. Croix views as "finesse" is diffferent from mine. The term itself is ambiguous. I am sure "Big O" would think 3/8oz is finesse. Who knows its different to everybody. It seems from your posts and the others in the forums that many people use it for the purposes of throwing baits around 1/4oz. You even mention throwing stuff lighter than that. To me, it just seems to not do well for those situations. I can absolutely launch a jig that probably totals a little over a 1/2oz with this rod. St. Croix's XF tips are very unique in how they perform. I believe my farthest cast has been made with this rod. With that said, I just do not feel it loads and releases those lighter baits (1/4oz and below very well at all). That is why I was wondering about its upper end of performance. It sounds like you have loads of experience with St. Croix's rods and that you are used to the action and the power that they deliver. You are much more adapt to casting with it than I. The main reason I was wondering about its heavier capabilities, mentioning a jig and trailer that I agree is about 1oz, has to due with it fitting in, or its "niche" with the other rods I have. I am loaded with rods that perform exceptional in the 1/4oz-1/2oz range and I was hoping that this MH St. Croix rod (which normally would act as if a Heavy powered rod), would fit the requirements of a heavy powered rod. Ghoti you mentioned that it fishes more like a true MH, I appreciate you sharing that information with me. Unfortunately, I would like it to fish a little heavier. The craftsmanship, looks, and overall XF action on the rod are great. Actually the action is so fast and unique it is rather fun to play around with. It sets the hook so quick when jigging it is really something special. It sets the hook quite nicely and causes some interesting feel while retrieving. You are right about that 3/4oz with the keitech swing impact fat being about an ounce. I used that in particular to see its upper end. If it fished like a true heavy, that would be the upper end of a heavy powered rod most likely sense I would be swimming it. Thank you! You are right about the casting distance. It casts ridiculously far if you need it to!

Are certain types of rods made for certain types of reels? I would say yes, but not the way you are looking at it. For instance, companies like to give suggested products that they would use on their rod that you buy. Was the reel made in mind of that rod? Sure, the color scheme perhaps and maybe in the gear ratio. The biggest reason I said yes has to do with the type of rod you are buying. Lets say you are buying a ML rod designed to cast 1/16oz w.e and you want a reel for that. Do you think a curado 300e would work well for this? Probably not, the types of "types of reels" that are made for that "type of rod" would be ones with smaller and lighter spools. One's that excel at casting such lightweight lures. As another example, take a deep crankbait rod. That "type of rod" someone would want to use a "type of reel" that has a lower gear ratio. If you dealt with deep cranks all day you will understand why. I believe you are approaching the question differently though. I believe you are asking does an "Abu Garcia Revo need an Abu Garcia Rod". The answer to this question as dictated by others is NO! You can pretty much put any casting rod on any casting reel and use it. With that said, regarding my previous discussion, there are rods that BALANCE and gear ratios that suit certain rods and techniques. Balance means everything when you are matching a reel to a rod. A 15oz combo that is balanced perfectly will feel lighter than a 10oz combo that is tip heavy or off-balance. In regards to rod selection, you should probably let us here on the forum let us know what you plan to do with your rod and people who have the Abu Garcia Revo (name the version you have) will be able to help pick out certain combos for you. Also, give a price range as there are rods that are $1000 and rods that are $16. WIth that said, all the advice given so far has been great. You will find that some searching will serve you will as to what rods are in your price range and what tendencies they have. Good Luck and welcome to the forums! You are at the right place no doubt plenty of helpful and experienced people.

I would also second this color combo. Sticking with shimano reels.

Hey Guys, So I have this rod and I am lost as to what it is capable of and what it's "niche" is. I was wondering if some members could help me out on its capabilities and how heavy of baits it can handle and what is its realistic weight ranges that it can handle. It is labeled "finesse jig" on the rod, but I have found it to not work well for what I would consider a finesse jig. Nonetheless, I would just like to hear what all of your thoughts are on this rod. I've been using this rod and it is fairly tip heavy and the action on it is extremely fast. I have other XF action rods and they are no where near as fast as this rod. This has offered some good with the bad. I feel it may have limited its versatility. When throwing lighter jigs and baits it does not load and cast them so well. Also, I have heard that St. Croix plays a power heavier than its rating. So I was wondering if any members here have used this rod and found out some really good applications for it? Will it be able to handle 3/4 ounce Northstar flip n swims with 5'' keitech swing impact fat swimbait trailer? Also, will it work well for 3/4 ounce spinnerbaits? Any information, experience, and details about this rod would be extremely helpful. Thank you!