BKeith

I put one of those big, bowl shaped wire brushes on my 7" side grinder and get the most of it. Then a whole bunch of nitrite gloves and lacquer thinner or MEK. Some the thinner works better on, some the MEK works better on, both play havoc on gloves and you don't really want to use either with unprotected skin.

DAP contact. Makes life a whole lot simpler than carpet cement. My son has a boat we put carpet in eight years ago that sits outside in the south texas sun and the carpet is still stuck solid.

Like anything else, if you are selling it, you point out all the great things about it, if you are trying to buy it, you point out every little detail wrong with it. If they are wanting $10,000 for it, and you feel you only want to pay $7,000 and $7,500 is you top dollar. Leave the $500 in the vehicle, when the dealing has gotten going pretty good and they are being hedgy, pull out the $7000 and lay them see you have it and are serious. Old saying still goes, money talks. After a few more exchanges and they are not quite wanting to let it go for that, bump it up the other $500, with the take it or leave it option. Be surprised just how much you can get someone to come off when you start putting that cash in front of them. I've offered way less than things would be worth, say that my max dollar, leave my name and number, and sometimes get a call before I get two blocks away, or get a call a couple days later. Like playing poker. You've got to read them and not let them know your hand.

Best way to find out, with the boat sitting on the trailer, undo the primer bulb, put a piece of hose on it and feed it into some five gallon jugs on the ground. Pump the bulb and get you siphon going. When it stops draining, your are at the level the pickup in the tank is going to no longer let the fuel pump pull fuel. When you start putting the gas back in the tank, watch the fuel gauge so that just as it moves at the empty mark, take note of how many gallons it took to make it wiggle on the empty mark, then how much it takes to get to the next mark up. Have the boat at about the same attitude it would be in the water doing this. I know with my boat 1/8 tank mark is 12 gallons. Empty mark is seven gallons. Pay attention to about how much you burn an hour and you know about how long you can run after it gets on empty before the pucker factor starts kicking in.

I would have serious doubts about them using lead acid batteries. To produce that kind of power for any length of time would almost certainly require some new, super state of the art nickel-zinc and lithium-ion battery. They have the only thing going that would come close and a super fast recharge time. However, at what kind of a price tag are they looking at for that technology. They have made worlds of headway in electric motor technology, but the batteries are still the Achilles heel in the practical use of electric power for this type application. It takes a hellavalot of battery to produce the same amount of power as one gallon of gas in a modern outboard.

Yes, but isn't yours and L shaped tank with the sending unit in the top, right under that section of rear deck behind the seats. I know I looked at trying to help a friend with a 201's sending unit and after a little probing, I told him to have fun, he was welcome to try and fix it if "HE" wanted to, I would even let him use my tools.

I will give you my take on the idea. I know electric motor and battery technology is light years above what it was not too many years ago, but I have a hard time believing it has come far enough to be practical for the application you are referring to. First some plain simple facts, it takes volts and amps to make power. To make 35HP, even at 200 volts, that's close to 150 amps. To get 150 amps, even for a few hours out of a "200 VOLT" battery you are looking at maybe a 1,000 Amp hour battery. Plus I have a hard time believing any manufacture would accept the risk of mixing a dumb a** human, 200 Volts and water into one element. If you drop the voltage, even to 100 volts, you are looking 300 amps. That's up there with very large, industrial electric fork lifts. I can see a motor that would be no bigger than a 35HP outboard, but it still has to run on battery and probably a very expensive battery. Next, even with some outlandish new technology, that allows this, with even the latest in battery technology, the battery would still have to be big and heavy. When you are looking at power boats the would use a 35HP motor, you are looking at boats in the 15-16 foot range. These size boats do not equate to having big, heavy loads. You would have to provide some facts on just how, what appears to be a very impractical application, would be achieved before I would even waste my time. Fall right into the electric car thing. Yep, they have them, actually have them where they are practical to own, until that one or two year warranty runs out on the battery and you have to replace it. Then you are looking at a cost of what the used value of the vehicle is sometimes.

Taking one apart, cleaning and lubing everything is a piece of cake. Getting everything back in their proper place can make you loose a lot of religion. They can be a real PITA. If you decide to got for it, you will have to unbolt it from the gunwale and take the top half off. There are groves, notches and holes things will have to fit back in so if you can get it laying flat so unknown parts don't start falling out might make things simpler. Then take bunches of pictures as you go. I was going to paste a break down but it won't let me so go here to give you an idea of what it looks like inside http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=c2d7d159-9451-4ec3-accb-785dcf86ed40 Don't put email or check the block, just select go to parts catalog, then the pull down SELECT ONE, select Evinrude, year, model and remote control.

With mine empty to the point the pickup will not provide fuel to the motor, 12 gallons puts mine just a tick past1/8 tank, and has about seven gallons left it can pump out when it first gets to empty. I don't remember but I think it's a 48 gallon tank. It's probably been eight years since I've filled it up. As long as I know about how much is in it, I don't worry exactly where the gauge is, as long as it's consistent. Pulling the sending unit though to adjust it is not much of an option on mine and I don't think you have access to yours either.

In the true since of the word and what most would consider a friend. Someone you might fish, hunt or do something of common interest with and a somewhat regular basis. I've never realy had any. other than my dad, father-in-law, and maybe one or two others but they have all passed. Yea, I've had people ask about bird hunting with me, or say maybe we can get together sometime and go fishing, normally in vehicle and I'm buying the gas or my boat at my expense, and I refer to people sometimes as a "friend" but it's usually just some one I know well enough to give them a hand if the need it. Which I'm a patsy anyway when it comes to helping people, I will go way out of my way to help someone if I possibly can. I've always said I had rather someone owe me a favor over money anytime. Even though, doing people favors can come back to bite you in the butt sometimes. The trouble is, I just don't particularly like most people. I don't drink or like being around people drinking, I don't smoke and don't want a cigarette near me, I don't like crowds, and most music irritates the h**l out of me, so I'm not a party person. If you want to get your plans screwed up, have someone else involved in them. Many have learned when I set a time, I stick to it. If I say I'm leaving at 5:00AM and you are suppose to go with me, if you are not there by 5:05 I'm driving off without you. I guess I put true meaning in "he's just and old grouch"

You could find you one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Minn-Kota-MAXIMIZER-electronic-power-control-trolling-motor-battery-life-extend-/221953561674?hash=item33ad76944a:g:W-UAAOSw7FRWWdP2&vxp=mtr I still have one I bought when they first came out and that price is more than I paid for mine new. Too bad they don't still make TM batteries with the lead buss bars on them. You could just clip on to the one of those that gave you the speed you wanted.

I would think it would have one and there is usually about a 1/2" hole in one side of the transom mount. Look up in that hole and you will see a screw slot. I have seen some that had allen screw heads though. Turning it CCW will bypass the hydraulics. I'm just going by where they are usually at, I have never had my hands on that model in particular so I can only guess. The early ones had remote pumps, and they may have put it on the pump unit.

There is a screw in the side you can turn to open the trim bypass to raise/lower the motor manually. As for the click, it sounds like the switches and relays are working. Probably should see if the trim motor has a fuse or have the trim motor checked out.

In todays business world, it's not about the product, that they could really care less about, it's about the money they can make off the product. Investors don't invest in a company because they want to help that company make a quality product, they only want to invest where they are going to get the biggest return on their dollar the fastest. When that cow is milked, the sell it off and go for the next one.

I can't afford to have friends that fish, I have too many in-laws that my wife thinks I should take. They can't fish worth a darn and works my butt off chasing hung up lures. On top of that, because they are relative's, she don't think you should dare suggest they chip in on expenses, and they are too sorry to ever offer..

I think Deka's Ultimate group 24 has over 1000. The Deka, Intimidator group 27 and 31 bump 1,000. These are AGM batteries Their Marine Master, dual purpose group 27 and 31 will also. Those are the flooded cell line I run the Marine Master group 31's, one DP for cranking and two DC's for trolling. I personally don't run straight cranking batteries because bass boats tend to be hard on them. They don't handle that constantly being discharged by the long periods of running electronics and pumps some tend to do. The Dual Purpose is much more suited for bass boat cranking batteries. Wow, I just looked to see what Bass Pro Shop is getting for the group 31 AGM Power Series, $330. This is the Deka, with BPS label on it. They make BPS's Same battery http://tristatebattery.com/8a31dtm-deka-intimidator-high-performance-agm-marine-battery-p-1356.html Not even going to say what I get the same battery for, but it's no where near either of those prices.

Does anyone even make bias ply tires anymore?

Mines a 20' bass boat, trailer is tandem axles with 205/75-14, I check them quite regular and always before a trip and run 45psi cold. The axles on the trailer have been aligned so I think I'm doing about all I can do on my part to take care of them, other than slow down, and that ain't gonna happen when I have a long way to go. I just don't think the Marathons are the tire they once were and I personally will never buy another. As mentioned, it's more than just me having problems with the separating. I don't normally run cheap tires and on my vehicles, that would never happen. Between my wife's Highlander and my 2500HD, I just spent $2,000 on tires because I am picky about them. At the same time though, I don't like spending almost $150 each for Marathons and have them coming apart. Reminds me of the old Firestone 721's, those broke me up from ever buying Firestone again.

For years Marathon was all I've run but I've had problems with Marathons in the past few years. I had two, two year old ones come apart on a trip from Texas this past spring. They separate and throw are large chunk, sometimes going flat when the do, sometimes not. Those two replaced two before them that came apart the same way. I've had enough trouble with them, when I take long, trips I carry two spares, and needed both that time. I did not replace those last two with Marathons. Decided to try some el cheapo's from Amazon.com that I bought two for the price of one Marathon. That way if one goes, I can just say "buy cheap s**t, get cheap s**t" instead of buying top of the line and getting cheap. My neighbor put eight Marathons on a large trailer he hauls his backhoe and excavator on and three of those have come apart in less than a year, and they are never towed at more than 45 mph. Mine get towed at 75 and 80 mph.

I guess I didn't have my glasses on the first time I read your post, failed to notice you had already stated you had a Type 1 receiver. There are tons of ways to address solutions to the problem you are having. The easiest way it just call a local steel supply house and ask if they sell drops. I've found a lot of them have quit cutting sticks. If they do, ask about a 3 foot piece of 1 1/4 box and see what wall thickness they have, preferably at least 3/16" but it must be at least 1/8" and don't plan to tow with it. Just do like I do, put a ball on it, and drill a hole for the locking pin. Then just take about five minutes when you get to the lake and make a quick change. Just have your chin strap snugged up when they give you the price. They will charge almost as much for a drop as they do a full length stick. I usually go ahead a buy a stick because of that, but that ain't cheap either. Steel prices have gotten stupid over the past few years. If a supply house won't help you, try some welding and fabrication shops. Next option, unless you have a welder you may not be able do yourself and that's just extend the tongue on the trailer. That can be done by having a piece like it welded on, or just buy a full stick and replace it with the length you want. If you like, you can convert it to a break away, but over time they tend to get worn and sloppy. My trailer was a break away with a 5/8" bolt for the pivot and 5/8" pin for the lock. The holes, bolt and pin had gotten so worn, the tongue almost made a V with the droop it had. I drilled them to 3/4" and put two snug fitting bolts and locked that suck down nice and tight. The problem is, you have already said it was a Harbor Freight trailer, and by the time you pay a fabricator to do the work of extending or converting it, you might feel like you just bought it again.

I have the exact same thing, a three foot long ball mount I've been using for years when launching from shallow edges or river banks hard to get close to with vehicle. It's mostly used getting the jon boat in rivers where there are no ramps and just back the trailer in off the bank but have used in several times at lake Falcon when it's way down, and a couple other lakes. I don't tow with it, I just swap out the ball mount at the location if I see that I need it. As light as a canoe is and that light trailer, I don't see where it would be any problem if you are running a frame mounted class II or class III receiver. If you happen to only running one of those light duty things and just kinda hanging under the vehicle, I would have seconds thoughts. I think it's like 500 pounds of tongue weight a class III hitch can handle, should be stamped on your or you can look it up, but that canoe and trailer extended back five feet is probably not going to get to that. Backing it with the pivot point a half a block behind you takes some getting used to.

Not sure we're you learned your electronics but it dang sure was from none of the schools I got my associates degree from, which went along with about 45 years experience in the military and private life. I'm not even going to try explaining all the things that post has wrong with it. I'm just going to say good luck to the OP and hopes he gets it figured out.

If I had to guess, a couple of thngs happened. A trim switch or something activated the trim and kept the motor running. The battery had a bad connection that over heated because of the running trim motor, melting the terminal and wires connected to it.

That puts you back to a very finite energy source. As soon as you try to take advantage of those two hp, the amp load on a 24 volt system is going to give a very limited run time. I have a 4hp Merc I can put on mine and its can definitely raise the pucker factor if running full throttle

My feelings is, in the long run, it would actually be cheaper to buy a major brand. First, I have not seen much of anything that has long term quality built into it. A lot of the motors you see from there don't even run sleeves, Next, what about parts support. You can still buy parts for most of the major brands that are 30 years old and older. A 30 year old Johnson or Merc etc is probably still worth a large portion of what it sold for new if taken care of. That Chinese thing, if it is even still in one piece, probably will bring scrap metal prices. A good example of how buying cheap works, look at the old Sears Game Fishers, they saved you a few bucks new, but if you can find one now, try finding parts for it, and then check on the value of one compared to any major brand. Those few bucks you saved are long gone, and then some.