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kickerfish1

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Everything posted by kickerfish1

  1. I like take a bit off the front end of swim senko and use it as a swimjig trailer. Very underated and seldom talked about.
  2. Yep, Ryan can skip with the best of them!
  3. Party fowl! - reel doesnt match rod and spinnerbait
  4. Could it perhaps be a bad guide on the rod? Maybe fraying the line?
  5. Perhaps this may be of some use of other things fail. I am sure it some sort of corrosion...just not sure on what may be the best. http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-To-Clean-Green-Gunk-Verdigris-from-Costume-Jewelry-/10000000009811875/g.html
  6. Boy that thing has been through the ringer! I would try solution of simple green and water. If that is rust and boat rash combined there won't be much that can be done. Sort of hard to see any 'green' discoloring that you mentioned in the photo.
  7. Yep both are reputable. Shipping is usually about 5 days from my experience which is often times quicker than I have waited for a TW order to arrive. Price is always better when ordering from Japan unless you find some spectacular sale in the states. Manuals will be in Japanese and you will not have any US warranty.
  8. Fun and combo for $60 isn't going to be anything that will knock your shorts off. I am not sure what pairing in that price range will make your fishing experience any more fun than something else. When I read the title of this thread and before I noticed the budget amount my first suggestion would have been a Shimano DC reel with the 'whine'.
  9. That would seem like a really solid deal to me . If the savings are that great you may consider stepping up to a Champion or Champion Extreme.
  10. I used to use a few Savvy rods for bottom contact, the 734 and 735. Now I have moved the 735 to frogs and small swimbaits and the 734 to toads, spinnerbaits, and chatterbaits. The are ok rods for feel but at the price point you can certainly do better. They balance well and fish well but aren't anything that is going to wow you IMO. If it were me I would look to another brand of rods at the $150 - $200 price point. You may also be able to buy something during a sale or 2nd hand that would be within your budget.
  11. NRX and the "new" GLX are great rods. Can't go wrong on any feel aps.
  12. Great tips but around here you have to run them weedless. Would be great for the guys that fish less weedy lakes.
  13. I am assuming the cast control cap is set properly as well? or is this one of the reels that the cast control cap is sort of set in a "permanent" position to where it doesn't need any adjustment? If the brakes are two are set to what I think you are describing as the off position, and everything else is in check you may want to try swapping out for a heavier bait as option number one. I believe 1/8 is going to be near the bottom of the range for that reel or any SV 105 reel for that matter. The second option would be to check the inductor to make sure it is not stuck or not functioning properly. Also note that SV reels as whole are "Stress Free Versatile". This essentially translates into hard to backlash and as result they are typically not long bomber/distance type of reels. Some folks have swapped out various pieces (I believe inductor springs) to adjust the brake force to gain more distance.
  14. If you are backlashing with the SV 105 you likely have an inductor issue.
  15. TT review indicates the new Conquest rods have a sensitivity at or slightly under the NRX. To me this would make them harder to justify the price of them being more than the NRX. Plus why would you make a new rod with same light blue thread wraps accents? I don't know but as of now I am not too interested in these. I guess I was expecting a whole new look and blanks that exceeded the NRX in feel. Plus the casting models are sort of odd to me. The lengths jump from 7 to 7'6 and only MBR tapers? Makes me pretty happy about the new GLX line and the nice range of models, actions, and rod lengths to select from. If one was to want a rod with sensitivity under a NRX wouldn't it make more sense just to buy a GLX? I know this is just one mans review (referring to the TT review), or one organizations review but I just don't have much desire to have a rod from this line. Sort of reminds me about the *** rod line and that absurd pricing. That rod line did not sell worth a lick. Too early to tell what this Conquest line will do in terms of sales (really niche market piece) but it will be interesting to hear some more thoughts on it from folks fishing them that have used rods like the GLX and NRX.
  16. You only have warranty coverage against manufacturer defects. In other words if the blank fails that is one thing but if you break it in a car door, step on it, smash into the ground or high stick a fish into the boat with it and it breaks as a result of "your" doing, you are SOL. Custom rods are scratch made sort of like your grandmothers cooking. Think about the work she might put in with the help of a few others preparing thanksgiving dinner. Then think of something like grilling burgers. If a neighbor comes in and steals all of the Thanksgiving fixings and turkey how much time and effort would it take to re-create the meal. If your burger fell down the grill grates into the coals and ash how easy would it be just to pay a little money for more hamburger and make another patty to grill? Point is customs take time and are not mass produced. There is no inventory or replacements lying around somewhere. A builder like DVT can make another rod for you but chances are he would have to work your build into other customers needs. Some parts can be salvaged but depending upon the damage and what the blank manufacturer will do you will be footing a good chunk of the cost to build another rod. Custom builds have been discussed in depth if you want to search more on here for them. I have customs and while they are great rods and built for what I wanted them for I have to be careful not to break them since I would be out quite a bit to replace them. Keep in mind for a custom build you will be in the rod for $20-30 for shipping and whatever the builder charges for labor so that may be another $75-100 minimum. NRX or GLX blanks are not sold to builders to build on. Similar blanks will run you a good $150 -250 to reach that level. Add in guides, reel seat, trim pices, grips, etc and you have another $100 there. Higher end St Croix, Point Blank, Phenix, and Northfork blanks plus quality guides and everything else would put you well over $350 per rod but likely closer $400-500. I also have an ALX rod. It is the Zolo B Maestro spinning rod. It is closer to a GLX/IMX blend then it is to a NRX in my hands. They are great rods and the taper is similar to the MBR Loomis rods. Certainly lots of options to consider...
  17. I try to use as much Rage (Coffee scent) and Keitech (Squid scent) when possibly so I don't have to hassle with applying scents. If I do use them I will use smelly jelly in baitfish or Megastrike.
  18. You are very welcome! The TackleTrap is a smaller shop in Alabama mainly specializing in mid to high end gear plus JDM/Megabass stuff. Certainly one of the more unique places out there not really like any other business I have found plus they offer reel cleaning service and various parts/products like Hedgehog Studios for example, not found on many if any tackle shops. You listed quite a few techniques. I no you are wanting a few high end rods to cover these but sometimes it easier to spread out all the apps over 3 or 4 rods to really help you get things dialed in. I am not trying to suggest you need 10 or 20 rods but I would say if you bought one or two GLX/NRX and 1 or 2 less expensive rods you would like be able to fish everything much easier. The nice thing about Loomis and Dobyns is that next to the ratings of the rods they often times list specific baits or techniques they recommend that specific rod for. For example the Loomis GLX MBR 842 would be ideal for small cranks, jerkbaits and topwater baits from just under 1/4 to just over 3/8. The GLX 844 would be the rod you would want from 3/8 to up to 3/4. They can fish the same baits in all reality but the difference will be the weight of the baits the rod will cast and load without over stressing the rod. You reaction bait rods can really be anything really. Something like a Fury, Sierra, or Champion would be just fine. You don't have to get a rod like a GLX or NRX to fish these kinds of baits/apps. I am sure Gary at the TackleTrap would have some sound advice on a 2 or 3 rod assortment to take care of what you want in addition to your heavier casting and spinning rod in your collection already. As a few other members have noted the Megabass Orichi XX rods are very nice and versatile as well. I am not sure if these are something you would consider but you could get 1 or two of these rods as well. You may want to try an NRX for around $400, a GLX for around $340, and a Orichi XX for around $300. That would be around $1040 and you would have 3 high quality rods with that added element of versatility. These would pretty much set you up using the best of the best sort of gear if that is what you are wanting. I have rods from each of these 3 rod lines and have not intention of selling them as they are precisely what I was wanting.
  19. Welcome! First I applaud your enthusiasm to upgrade your gear. Let me start of by saying cranks, topwater, jerkbaits and small swimbaits can be fished on $100 to $200 rod and you will be just fine. You mentioned you have spinning rig already for the finesse stuff so there is outfit #1. Next you have a frogging/heavy cover outfit so there is #2. Now you said you want 2 Loomis rods. How about getting your self 3 total rods and you would have a 5 rod arsenal? If that is the case you have nearly endless options for your topwater/crank/jerkbait, swimbait rod. Something like a Dobyns 705 cb glass or graphite or the 704 if you don't fish very heavy baits. Any similar reaction bait rod would fish most of the apps just fine. If you wanted to Loomis rods to cover a variety of apps from weightless plastics, to texas rigs, and jigs up to 3/4 oz total you will likely need two rods. I would suggest something like (1) 2 or maybe a 3 powered rod and (1) 4 powered rod. The jig and worm rods are going to much faster in action and better for jigs, plastics, and weightless baits, while the MBR rods are your super versatile rods with a taper and action suited from anything from small swimbaits, chatterbaits, spinnerbaits, topwater, and treble hook baits to jigs and plastics. You could fish everything you listed on the MBR 842, 843 and 844 rods from the GLX line. I would get a hold of the folks at the TackleTrap and see what kind of deal they can offer. They often have deals not listed on the website plus the occasional rep sample or dealer demo rod which carries a full warranty. I bought my new MBR GLX from them for $340 shipped. If you can find a similar deal you can buy 3 GLX rods for around $1000 and cover about anything you need. So If I was in your shoes I would likely pick these two rods to cover what you want: 1. GLX MRB 843 - This would be for weightless plastics, light jigs, swimjigs, chatterbaits, spinnerbaits, jerkbaits, cranks and topwater 2. NRX - 873 CRR - This rod is between the loomis and 3 and 4 powered rods despite it being listed as a 3 power. You can fish all your mid to heavy texas rigs and jigs from 3/8 to 3/4 oz. If you prefer a shorter rod maybe look at the 854. Many like the 894 which is a bit longer than you wanted but is the bees knees for jigs. Regardless if you are set on GLX and NRX rods I would contact the TackleTrap and speak to Gary Wood. He knows his way around all things Loomis and would get you fixed up with the rods you want at a very nice price.
  20. Unless there are weeds to the surface I am taking the plopper every time. The ability to stop them and pause them plus the casting distance are great attributes to me. Plus the plopper is more durable. I caught a few fish on a Cavitron (nothing over a pound and a half) and the frame get bent pretty bad. I don't boat flip fish so it was not as result of that. Both have their time and place but for me plopper is open water and buzz bait would be sparse surface weeds.
  21. Nice post and nice fish! I don't see an issue using gloves so you will get no grief from me. Our lakes get various algae blooms throughout the summer. Never 100% sure when it is the more toxic type like the blue/green algae. Usually just avoid the algae bloom lakes and fish the others.
  22. For my first dedicated setup it would be a jig and worm rod for bottom contact apps without a doubt. I would spend a little extra to get something nice. Depending upon your budge there are lots of great rods to consider from $100 to $500 and anything from brands like Loomis to JDM rods to custom builds. Another option may be to look at some used rods as well. You may be able to find a rod that retailed for $400 or $500 for Around $300 maybe less. One can argue that you don't need a real spendy rod for spinnerbaits and chatterbaits, cranks, frogs, topwater, etc. but when the bait you fish requires you to feel the bite and get a good hook set the rod is going to be a key part of the equation in addition to the anglers skill, the reel, and line. I would make my 1st dedicated rod something for jig/worm apps.
  23. MB - I can post a few photos for you. Shoot me a PM and we can swap emails.
  24. Best for big bass is how your question reads... Luckily I don't live in big bass country so my reels are more suited for dinks. Shimano or Daiwa make the best IMO. I have had reels by every manufacture but they are the only reel brands I have left in my "regular" rotation. Which reel is best? No such thing especially for those with technique specific gear. A 50 or 70 sized shimano is not going to be your deep crank or swimbait reel. A Tranx or Curado 300E are not going to be your weighless plastics reel. I am not sure I could pick a favorite reel as majority of my reels are technique specific.

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