iceintheveins

Please post that info when you do. I've got a basically never used bronzeye jr. sitting here that takes on water like the titanic. Can't walk it at all. It gets so back heavy that you can just get the nose to lift out of the water. My bronzeye popper takes on a little, but it can still be walked. Kind of irritating that an eight and a half dollar bait doesn't function like it's supposed to. The popper does walk a lot easier and doesn't take on much water at all. The reason I stick with the spro is because the natural green really closely matches the color of our local frogs. The spro does catch fish, no doubt.

For medium and deep cranks I would go with 10 pound test Original Stren or P - line CX Premium. For smaller or shallow cranks, go with 6 - 8 pound test of the same on spinning gear.

I have had the spro take on enough water to where it will sink in the middle of the cast if I'm bringing through really thick emergent weeds. I will try drilling the hole and will let you know how it works.

1. Senko 2. Soft Jerk (fluke, sluggo) 3. 3/8 Ounce Pepper Hawg Tandem Spinnerbait 4. Rapala Skitterpop #7 5. 1/4 Ounce Cavitron Buzzbait 6. 6" Curl or Ribbon Tail Plastic Worm (zoom, luck e strike) 7. Rage Shad 8. Medium Crank (bomber model A) 9. Deep Crank (excalibur fat free shad) 10. Spro Bronze Eye Jr. Frog, Natural Green

Thanks guys, I plan to buy the tool.

Dillon Dam doesn't have smallies, it's a lousy fishery with a bunch of little trout and kokeanee thanks to the wonderful management of the Colorado Disaster, er Division, of Wildlife.

I have been having a lot of my bomber model A's and excalibur fat free shads starting to run off to one side after just a couple fish. So I have a couple questions: 1. When I'm tuning them, if it's running to my left do I turn the eyelet to the right, or since that's the crankbaits right, do I turn it to the left? 2. Are there some cranks that you just can't get to run straight once they start doing it, no matter what? Hate to have to replace crankbaits after a couple fish, especially ones that catch bass as well as model A's and fat frees.

Gammies all the way!

I like the fact that even the smallest crankin' rap is 3/8 of an ounce so it will cast easy on casting gear. The CR 14 also is only 2.5", which is a small size for most cranks that run that deep. I for one will like being able to get a smaller bodied crank down deep to match smaller forage or for when bass aren't as aggressive.

The Tru Tungsten walks the dog even better than the spro, and it has the little drain hole right where it says to drill it. The problem with caulking the hole is it causes it to sit in the water different and it doesn't walk as good. Also, a small slit with a razor where the eyes are works for a bit but the it also grows in size the longer you use the bait.

They are a lot like a rage shad but the rage shads cast further and stay on top with a slower retrieve.

I use both one and two piece, and I prefer two piece rods for portability, even though I drive a Silverado 1500 HD.

I'm really excited about it, something with more finesse than the bigger DTs.

Not that much good fishing in that area, just smaller trout. You need to go to the Denver area, the Pueblo area, or the Grand Junction area for decent bass fishing.

You can fish them just about any way. Weightless, split shotted, and carolina rigged have been my best producing tactics for it.

They aren't as vulnerable to handling mortality as pike or salmonids, but I still try to keep them in the water as much as possible and get photos and stuff done quickly.

I go out and fish from about 5:00 am till about noon. It's already close to 100 around 11:00 am here in Western Colorado. They feed pretty good in the mornings.

I use an arbor knot and always have it spooled by machine for plenty of tension.

I agree the PQ is the best $100 reel out there. The Johnny Morris is really not much better than the PQ and it even reviews a little worse than the PQ. The Citica is fantastic and if you have $120, I would buy it from what I have heard.

If you are pegging it up on the line, the bobber stops are great. If you are pegging it directly to the bait/hook, nothing works better than the parasite weights.

I like to let them sink to the desired depth, then begin a moderately slow, steady retrieve. I will then pause for 2 - 3 seconds every 10 seconds or so, then reel them forward or twitch them forward fast, then steady again. Rinse and repeat.

Spray ons just don't stay on the lure well.

They are pretty close in quality but I think the Citica is SLIGHTLY better from what I hear. I haven't used either. I do have a BPS Pro Qualifier and it is awesome.

I don't usually use trailers but my bro. swears by it.

I mean we are talking a major power line so you mean likely death rather than just a shock don't you?