Chris at Tech

Been thinking about that rod, or a similar one with pistol grip to fish topwaters and jerkbaits. Darnit, you may have just pushed me over the edge

Are you talking about a casting rod or a spinning rod?

And those bastages don't make that reel in LH >

BPS has 2. One is proprietary for BPS brand rods. They also have another one that looks like it's just a rubber butt capp that slides on. Alternatively, there's metal washers and duct tape

One drop of the Shimano oil that came with the reel every 1-2 trips. It's simple to do, so why not?

Any tips for choosing a size of jig trailer? For instance, any times when it's better to choose a chunk type trailer vs using an entire plastic craw?

Sorry for the slightly off-topic post...but I didn't want to have to join another forum to ask this question For those of you also around redfish and seatrout water, does your bass gear serve double duty? My folks just relocated to Hilton Head, and I'm curious if I need to purchase a new rig for inshore and backwater fishing for reds. I was thinking my Stradic 2500, 7' MH with 20 lb PowerPro would suffice for throwing Gulf shrimp on a jighead and the like. Or would I be wise to upgrade to a 4000 size reel?

I have a Dobyns 704C on order, H extra-fast rated for 1/4 - 1. I'm planning on using it for frogs/toads, heavier jigs, C-rigs, heavier T-rigs and smaller swimbaits. I already have 2 Revo STX's, so I'm debating whether I want to get another one for this rod or try something new, like a Zillion. Decisions, decisions I also thought about the Avid, but since I already have 2 I wanted to try something new, and Dobyns has a pretty good name in the industry.

IT consultant

Sorry to threadjack, but any info as to what will be new or updated on the new Stradics?

Yeah, check TackleTour for Megabass. Several folks have had less than desirable experiences with them lately...almost all Megabass USA, and not Japan.

When I purchase a lure, I purchase 2-3 so that I have most conditions covered. For instance, 1 model of crankbait in shad and in chart/black back. One style of worm in watermelon (clearer water) and junebug (stained water).

Rule number 1: coordinate with your roommate. You don't need 2 of everything, so figure out what you can bring and what he can bring. My list: stereo computer TV small fridge 1-2 small pots for cooking your Ramen noodles laundry bag I'll add some later when I think of more

Or you can just buy the hooks that come with the corkscrew

Well the bottom line is that you're not likely to find a good reel and an incredibly sensitive rod at that price point. In my opinion, that makes the Stradic/Extreme combo that much more attractive. At $140, you get the Stradic and then are only really paying $20 for the rod. Use the Extreme until you can afford to upgrade to a better rod (for instance, a St Croix Avid 7'MF ). The Stradic will be a great reel for a long time, so you won't need to worry about upgrading it.

I own the Stradic/Extreme 7'MH combo and I use it for flukes, senkos, Fat Ikas, and weightless trickworms, and I like it a lot for those things. For light shaky heading and drop shotting, like 1/8 oz, I think your current ML rod would be a better bet, but this one will work...and it'll work even better with 1/4 oz shakey heads. But for senkos and flukes, I think it's a great choice. It'll also be a decent choice for lighter spinnerbaits (I wouldn't go above 3/8 oz on a spinning reel, personally). As for the reel size, get the 2500. One spool with 8 lb mono and the other with 20 lb braid. I really think this is a very versatile rod combo. You'll love it

The Stradic/Extreme combo is the best bet, if you're looking to stay with spinning. Although, in my opinion...and I don't proclaim to know everything, I'm not sure a spinning rod will have enough backbone for fishing frogs in the slop. I recommend the 7'MH Extreme paired with a 2500 Stradic. One spool with 20lb Suffix braid, and one with 8lb mono/copoly. If $100 is your final price point, check out the Sahara/Bionic Blade combo.

7' Medium Heavy, Fast action spinning rod.

Don't be surprised if it's a frustrating day. My first few times on my boat, I could either fish or drive. Not both at the same time. On a calm day, this is likely not that big an issue. However, if the wind or boat traffic is higher, it could be tough. Even getting the boat in and out of the water the first few times could be tricky. Spend some time getting to know the boat, how it handles the water, maneuvering, speed, etc. One tip: get 2 anchors. Find a spot you like and drop them both so you can actually get some fishing time in

I'm in the midst of trying to buy a heavier powered rod to handle slop fishing and smaller swimbaits, but I'm stuck as to whether I should pay more attention to power or lure weight rating. For instance, my Kistler MH Mg69APC is rated for 1/4 - 3/4. This past weekend, I picked up a BPS Pro Qualifier because it was on sale, 7' MH, rated for 3/8 - 1.5 oz lures. However, when I put the same lure on both rods (a Storm swimbait, ~1.3 oz), they feel like they are loaded identically. Granted, I'm not casting, but rather just hanging the lure off the rod feels very similar, despite the difference in lure ratings for the rods. Due to the similarity in bend, it makes me think I need a heavier rod. Unfortunately, the BPS Pro Qualifier doesn't come in 7'H...bastages... So now I'm leaning towards a Kistler Jig N Toad road. The one thing that I'm having trouble with is that this rod is rated H, but for weights 1/4 - 1.25 ozs. Will it be heavier than the BPS rod I have no, despite the similar lure weights? I'm hesitant, because I cannot get my hands on one in person. So this was my roundabout way of asking how to best compare rods on paper (if possible). Is lure weight rating a pretty safe way, or is power more universal?

I have one of these matched up with a Daiwa Tierra 2000. I use it for dropshotting, shakyheading, and split-shotting. I freakin' LOVE this rod.

Well done stearing him away from that other state school to the north. I got out in 2001.

Personally, I ALWAYS peg my sinker in a T-rig. And as such, I use the bullet weights with the screw. Do they make tungsten weights with the screw? Then again, they're expensive enough already. If you're not married to the idea of tungsten, pick up a few packs of the bullet weights with screws for the price of 1 or 2 tungsten weights.

Good suggestions so far. I only used a jig for the first time this past weekend, mostly chucking it (as opposed to flipping it). Since I'm confortable already with a T-rig and I was using the jig in the exact same situation I'd normally use a T-rig in, I was just curious

Anyone have any wisdom or reasons as to when to select a T-rig vs. a jig? Any situation where one excels over the other?