WIGuide

If you're a fishing out of the back of the boat, don't cast any farther forward of the midpoint of the boat. There are exceptions to this, like if you're close to a bank and moving, usually the person in front will be casting ahead or at a 45 degree angle, it's ok to do the same. It kind of goes with the same lines, but if the boater is trying to turn the boat in a certain direction, don't throw forward on that side. That seems to happen to me a lot with people without a bunch of experience. I'm on the TM starting to turn the boat and out goes the cast, right where I'm headed.

I go with a 7.1: 1 there's no added resistance, so there's no need for a slower reel in my opinion.

Like Glenn said, changing color in this situation might help the fish to commit better. They're trying to tell you you're close, but not quite there. The other thing you might want to try is actually speeding your presentation up a little. The other thing you can do is try to change the size of bait you are throwing. Either move up a size or down but show them something different.

They can be, but it depends on how you plan on fishing them. Since a lot of people rip them out of the grass, a cranking rod with moderate action probably isn't the best. If you do, you will most likely be jerking much harder to apply enough force to get it to rip out of the grass instead of pulling the gas with it. Line choice will differ a lot. A lot of people throw heavier line with shallow running crankbaits and less line with deeper divers . A smaller line diameter will help get the bait deeper. I use 12lb Berkley 100% fluoro for both shallow and deeper cranking.

Muffs are meant to be used in conjunction with the engines water pump. You put the muff on, turn the water on, and then start the engine. I believe the recommended flushing time is 5-10 minutes at idle if you're flushing salt water.

I too am a Ranger guy. My Uncle bought a Gambler with a 300 HPDI on it an that boat was wicked. If you just want to go fast and have no concern about anything else Gambler would be your boat. However, coming from a Ranger, I really doubt you'd like it. They're built for speed first and fishing second. You might be thinking sports car or suv, but how many people do you see using a sports car as a work truck? Champion has a good reputation, but you can't go wrong if you go with another Ranger.

I know TW has some on their site. I don't know that I'd consider them cheap, but they'd be worth checking out.

You've got to be sure to give the bait a little more slack. You want to jerk the rod down softly, and then bring the rod tip right back at the bait. It takes a little getting used to, but once you get the hang of it, it's not any harder than walking it with a rod with more tip. I absolutely love the backbone of that rod though, such a great feeling when you slam a big one with it. If you're looking for a more all purpose rod, I'd look at the "Spinnerbait" model instead. It'll be a better match for what you're asking it to do.

I've been using Trilene 100% FC for a few years now and I have had zero issues with it. It's got very good abrasion resistance and I think it's better than other fc's I've tried.

If you're paying that much for a reel I would sure hope it's a "GREAT" reel!

I'm more of a frog guy!

That's oil injection. If it wasn't, you'd have to pre-mix. It's still not a bad idea to change the plugs, but you can probably get two seasons on them if you stretch it.

I've got one of the older Signature series rod and I like it. It's sensitive and has a good overall feel.

You can totally fish a frog with that setup!

Any of their 6'8" M/XF spinning rods will work will work. I've got 3 rods that I use for jerkbaits early and late in the year. 6'6" M/F Legend Xtreme (casting) 6'8" M/XF Legend Tournament Bass (spinning) 7'2" M/M Legend Tournament Bass (casting)

Sounds like you're spot on. It'd be a good idea to change plugs like you were thinking, especially if you motor isn't oil injected.

I looked up a few videos of it on youtube and it is pretty fast, but there is also a slight lag from when you press the button to when the motor starts to turn. Cable steer is still faster though because as you say it's just how fast you can move the pedal. There isn't a whole lot of resistance either so you can turn them very quick.

Haven't used these before, but I'm sure they work well. Your other option would be to keep the boxes you have and modify them. I used to do that for my terminal tackle. I'd buy air line tubing that you can find in the aquarium section at your local Walmart that will run you about $5. I'd put a slice in one wall of it and slip it over all the dividers, cutting pieces to the correct length. Then you can secure them with a little dab of super glue and you should be good to go!

I'm sure it's got it's places, but aside from docks, which you can see well in advance we found very few when we were down there. Fork obviously has a lot more of them. Most of the lakes I fish up here have less than Fork does but a whole lot more than Ft. Gibson does or at least what I saw of it. I see the Xi5 turns pretty fast but given that a cable drive is only limited by how fast you move your foot, I find it hard to believe that it moves just as fast. The TR82L FB is one in the Tour Edition series. Motorguide's top of the line cable steer model.

Keep pluggin away guys! Where are you guys at? I'm thinking you must be a ways up there a ways given those water temps.

Yep you should be good to go. Not all adjustable pedestals have the spring. The power pedestals have the seat flange connected so the seat bolts right to the pedestal.

If you are having that issue, you both may want to look into impeller replacement.

I was looking around because I need to recarpet mine this year. I'm not sure how they stack up price wise, but Overtons (part of Gander Mountain) has a lot of choices, and they also will send you sample cards so you can actually see what you're looking at.

Thanks! I caught it on a Bass Pro Static Shad (similar to a Flicker Shad). I'm not sure why, but if you look at them online it doesn't say that they suspend, They do though, so I've been fishing them like a jerkbait and have been doing really well with them.

Make sure you add Sta-bil Marine or Seafoam to your gas a towards the end of the season to be sure your gas is fully treated. Spray fogging oil into the carb intake while engine is running. You'll have to open the butterflies a little to get it in there. Shut the motor down and remove the spark plugs. Spray the cylinders with fogging oil and turn the motor over a few times but don't start it. Finally, drain AND refill the lower unit. Some people will tell you not to but it's one of those things that's very easily forgotten in the spring and if forgotten it will remind you very quickly. You'll be sitting stalled in the middle of the lake and when u do finally get in there will be a hefty bill for replacement. Overall, it's a really simple process and should only take you 20 minutes to a half a hour at very most. It's not worth it to take it to a dealer and pay the ridiculous cost to have them do it.