jonnyblazex

For lightweight finesse setups, a spinning rod cannot be beat. You must be stubborn if you think a baitcaster covers all tactics no matter what the circumstances. There will always be a time when a spinning setup will shine. I enjoy fishing spinning setups for finesse, and especially fighting the fish at times rather than quickly winching them in. You can run much lighter line on the spinning setup, and never have to worry about backlashes to ruin your day. You will dump as much money or more into a high quality spinning setup vs a casting setup if you want to. I have over $600 in my spinning setup, and don't regret it for a second. It is more sensitive than my casting setups, although I use it for finesse, and casting setups for heavy duty.

If you are going the bottom contact finesse route with spinning, or even baitcast, you need a sensitive rod. A ugly stick is about as sensitive as a slap in the face - BEFORE IT HAPPENS. When I got serious, and wanted to upgrade my game from my Ugly stick, I picked up a 6'6 med action ex fast action spinning rod from Scheels. Its the Guide Series rod, and it is Very sensitive. It was so much more sensitive and firm than the ugly stick, I couldn't tell you. It was on sale for $75, but retail was 125. It came with a lifetime warranty, and has not given me one problem to this day. Since then, I thought, what would the best shaky head /drop shot / finesse setup on the market be like? I had a little money to blow at the time, so I decided to pick up a top of the line G Loomis NRX 6'10 Mag Med Ex Fast spinning rod, and paired it with a lightweight Shimano Stradic Ci4+ 2500. This is my most expensive setup. It is perfect 100% in my opinion. The sensitivity and action is unmatched, as well as the weight and components although you pay for it. Im not saying you have to pay really big bucks and get the best rod ever, but spend what you can to get something good, as best as you can get. That 75 dollar rod still gets the job done, and I would highly recommend it to start out with, it is really all you need.

I use Seaguar Tatsu fluorocarbon line in 8lb test, 6lb diameter. If you want the best fluoro, this is it. The stuff casts perfect, knot strength is perfect, stretch is little, and perfect, not stiff. Best fluoro ever. I used to use braid, but fluoro provides so much slack line sensitivity it is unreal. You cant really work the shaky head the same with braid/fluoro leader as you can straight high quality fluoro. Braid requires tight line for the best sensitivity, where fluoro is sensitive even at slack, where you work shaky heads correctly, on slack line while you are shaking the worm. Braid also floats at the top, down to the worm with a bow if left on slack line, if you can imagine it, and fluoro goes at a diagonal line to the worm because it sinks. They are two different presentations, but if you are dragging the shaky head on a tight line, the braid will be more sensitive. If you are shaking the shaky head, or hopping and dead sticking it, fluoro will be more sensitive. I spent almost 600 dollars on my shaky head setup, so I am serious about it, and like the technique a lot. I love to feel the bite, and slam the hook down. I use a G Loomis NRX rod with Shimano Stradic Ci4+ 2500 reel, and seaguar Tatsu 8lb line. Best shaky head setup ever IMO.

Power pro yellow is excellent for visibility (line watching). Tie a fluorocarbon leader onto the end of the line. There is no problem with the leader, as long as you pay attention to the knot, and don't do it sloppy, you will be okay. The fluoro leader allows you to break off, although it is difficult, it is possible. I usually use a 12lb down to 6lb fluoro leader depending on the circumstances in my area. If I was doing a lot of flipping into heavy cover, I would obviously use a heavier leader, but 12lb is perfect all around.

The major advantage of braid vs fluoro or mono is the pound test diameter, you can get like 20lb test in 8lb diameter. The advantage of a smaller diameter line on a crankbait is that it gets the crank down faster, plus the line is obviously very strong. The disadvantage is the no stretch factor, which makes it easy for the treble hooks to pull out of the fish's mouth. One way to make up for this is with a moderate action rod, or possibly better, a glass rod. The flexible rod makes up for the "something has to give" factor if you will.

I also like the Owner Ultrahead the best. The hook the very sharp, and strong. The twist lock has a centering pin, and the screw is small enough to use the thinnest roboworms, but also works perfectly for larger baits, and goes on straight everytime with the center pin. I use 1/8 to 1/4 oz. shakey heads mostly, and throw it on spinning gear. I like to use around a 7ft medium action rod with 6 to 8lb fluoro. This setup works killer. The lighter the weight on the jig, the slower the fall, and I cant tell you how many times I have caught fish on the fall, a few very nice ones too. Always watch the line on the fall, for a twitch or move, then cross their eyes!

Buy a GLX or NRX from G Loomis, and you will not have any complaints! Never seen one bad thing anyone had to say. I own a NRX spinning, and it is my favorite rod, now going to pick one up in casting. The NRX is flat out awesome, very tough, sensitivity is scary sensative, action is great, and has a very good warranty compared to the IMX. Every rod wishes it is one of these. Im not trying to get you to spend more money, but it is worth it to go GLX or NRX is Top of the line.

I can use left or right retrieve reels just the same. I prefer spinning in left retrieve, but baitcast dosent matter. I have some in left and some in right. Its nice to mix it up, and challenge yourself, you use both sides of your brain, and after a short amount of time it becomes natural, even to do the opposite. That's why it feels so awkward for some, because they NEVER use the other hand, a major disadvantage!

Mille Lacs is definatly full of hog smallmouth. A guy at work showed me a pic of him with a smallie about a year ago, said it weighed 8lbs. That's pretty much the state record, and set back in the late 1940's on top of that. It looked like an 8lber, but cant be too sure with that guy, but definatly nice fish regardless. Wall mount jaw drop quality fish. I believe Mille Lacs has a regulation on smallmouth, so you cant keep them in any size, and must be released back into the water asap. There are a few other very good lakes as well, check out some on mndnrlakefinder.com

I bought a E21 PG (pro grade) casting rod about 4 years ago, and is still going strong. I have caught more fish on this rod than all my others combined, literally hundreds of bass. Even landed a 12lb northern pike and accidentally snagged a 20 plus lb carp once and landed it too. Mine is a great rod, very light and the sensitivity is very good, as well as excellent backbone. I know the Pro Grade isn't made anymore, and have not tried the others, so cant recommend the regular carrot stix wild to anyone.

Spinning: G Loomis NRX 822Syr G 6'10 mag medium ex. fast paired with Shimano Stradic 2500 Ci4+, 8lb Tatsu. Casting: E21 Carrot Stix Pro Grade 6'9 medium heavy, paired with Shimano Curado 201G7, 12lb Seaguar Invizix.

Another vote for kvd line conditioner, it definatly helps. I would recommend 12lb test, great all around line. The heavier you go, the more problems you will have with memory. 12lb casts great, and is very strong! I had a very hard time breaking it once when I snagged a boulder at a dam. I walked backward, and had to use all my weight to get that stuff to break, I weigh 230lbs. I use a palomar knot, never had a problem. Wet the line, then pull the tag end until near tight, then the main line, then give each a good pull together, and that is one strong knot I tell you what. Good luck!

I like Seaguar Fluorocarbon, especially the Invizix or better yet the Tatsu is the best line I have ever tried. Thanks to the guys that recommended it to me on this forum! Anyways, I have 2 finesse spinning setups. I use straight 8lb (actually 6lb diameter) tatsu fluoro on one, and 20lb power pro with 8 lb invizix leader on the other. It really depends on what bait you are using, and if you are working it on a semi slack line, or a tight line like dragging a lure or just reeling in. Any time its a semi slack line presentation like shaking or quivering, fluoro will deffinatly excel in the sensitivity department, be it slack or tight, very sensitive. Braid on the other hand is the most sensitive line on a tight line, the other thing I like about braid is that it can be easier at times to see for line watching to detect a bite, you pretty much have to watch it closely if there is any slack in the line, as there is a good chance you would not feel the bite, especially on a long cast. Best way to find out for yourself is to try both. If a guy could find a spare spool for his reel it would be great as well. Good luck!

A lot of guys claim the G loomis rods start as a very good sensitive rod at the IMX and up. A lot of them say the lesser priced rods are a little of a let down for what one would really expect compared to IMX, GLX, NRX. For 120, it seems like a decent deal, but I have no idea how they perform, as I don't own a GL2. I do however own a NRX spinning rod, it is spendy, but it is da bomb. Most sensitive rod I have ever tried. Are there better rods than a GL2 for around 120? Most likely, but as I said before, never tried it. ---- Jon.

My brother bought a Patriarch spinning reel a couple years ago, and now it is pretty worn out and sloppy. He took pretty good care of it too, but I guess nothing lasts forever. I just picked up a shimano stradic ci4 plus, it is a very nice reel, nice smooth powerful drag, and comfortable ergonomics, as well as super light weight for its size in a 2500, it weighs less than most reels that are the next size down. I liked the 2500 size better than the smaller reels, because it packs a much stronger drag, I believe it was something like 14lbs, compared to only 6 to 8 on a small reel. The gear ratio was also nice, 6.0:1. I also have a 50 dollar Shimano Sonora, the orange colored one. For the price, it cant be beat. I have been fishing it for over 4 years, and it is still as smooth as day one. I just do seasonal maintence at the beginning of the season, and clean it off when needed as it gets dirty.

I have a Green colored NRX, the "newest model." It seems as though they have a stop when you go to crank it down. They address this for a sure thing, that the stripping problem is addressed over the blue/black model, and corrected in the green. Just use common sense, you don't need to go balls to the walls, its a fishing reel, not the lug nuts on a tractor. Snug it down, then grab the reel and see if it has any side to side play. It should have none or very little if even noticable. I love my NRX. I wish everyone had an opportunity to try one out, at least a few casts. They are unbelievibly sensitive, as well as versatile. I took a second look at the rod before I bought it, I know it is expensive, but it IS worth the money. Nothing else compares to it, and best of all MADE IN THE U.S.A. Support your country, and stop buying China made bs, and prices for quality that we make, your brothers and sisters, would lessen as well. We seem like we buy quality from each other, as americans, but why does it have to be so high? Its because everyone is buying Chinese. We have to stop and stand for your country.

I usually use a small jig head, chartuse or pink seems to work for me, 1/8 oz or less, tipped with a minnow, vertical jig off the side of the boat is your best bet. Look for rock piles, drop offs, or edges of weedlines for the best bites. Walleye are in the Perch family, and here in Minnesota, it seems most everyone fishes for them. Walleye are a lot bigger than regular yellow perch, so sometimes you can troll crankbaits, use a planer board, or jig with live or plastic bait, as mentioned before. Those are the main ways to catch them.

MANNs Jelly Worm x2! Get the grape color and scent. You open the bag and smell, then tell me you don't want to take a bite. I missed a giant last year on one, but they definatly go for them. Another thing I like about them is that they keep the dinks away, with the bigger size, you will catch bigger fish.

You would be surprised how much more sensitivity you will get from a good fluorocarbon line. I used to use 20lb power pro braid in the past with 8lb fluoro leader, I caught fish, but like stated before, I couldn't feel the bite until I slowly started reeling to pick up all the slack, if a fish bit on the slack, I wouldn't feel it always, but I could usually see the line move, then set the hook. Slowly dragging a shaky head works ok on braid, as you keep the line fairly tight, but to correctly shake a shaky head worm, it is done on fairly slack line, where braid is not top of its game. I now switched to straight fluoro, and let me tell you, its like the line is made for shaky head, and any slack line presentation for that matter. You have incredible sensitivity compared to braid, I can feel the tail of the worm shaking when im doing it on slack line. Bump a rock, transmits great, so good you almost think it felt like a bite, I can even tell soggy leaves in the water. Problem is though, you have to use a high quality fluoro, generally a little more expensive than braid. I would recommend Seaguar Invizix or Seaguar Tatsu, you deffinatly get what you pay for when it comes to fluorocarbon. Skimp out, and it might be the worst line ever. Hope this helps

I use 12lb Seaguar invizix on my curado, same reel as you have. It works EXCELLENT. I use it for all around underwater use, like jigs, tx rigs, jerkbaits, spinnerbaits, crankbaits, etc, a wonderful all around line. it will obviously have a lot of stretch compared to braid, but any fluoro would, but it is tough line, and casts excellent, and has great sensitivity. You get what you pay for with fluoro, the more expensive the better. I have tried a few different brands, and know from experience. Just go a little lighter, and Im sure red label is still a decent line to use, a lot of good talk about it from what I have heard.

Where are you guys from MN finding the info for the tournaments? I have been looking at the DNR website, but is that all of them? Also, was hoping the the Southern MN bass tour (Mankato area) would come back around this year, has been gone for 1 or 2 years now... Any info would be appreciated! Thanks

I have the Ci4+ 2500 FA, just tried it out a couple days ago for the first time. I paid retail for it at a scheels, ended up being around $230. I have only done maybe 20 casts total, it is a very nice reel, and I really like the updated handle/knob, it is very comfortable and balanced. The rotor is also light as a feather as mentiond before. Right out of the box it wasn't as smooth as I expected, but on the water you wont notice, it seems to get a little smoother after even a little use in my case. Sir snookalot is 100 percent correct, its all about small details and especially weight in this case, that makes he price. The reel is LIGHT in a 2500 size, lighter than the spendy stella and sustain, and all the older stradics, that's what this reel has going for it, the Ci4 material. Its 6.8oz, there are not many reels in this size that are that light and have a 6:1 gear ratio. My initial thoughts upon casting were that it casted no further than my $50 Shimano Sonora FB 2500, and the Sonora is jus as smooth. I like the handle a little better on this reel that cost over 4x as much, and it feels a little lighter mounted on the rod than the other, but a little over 2 ounces is really not that noticeable. I have had the Sonora for 3 or 4 years now, and it has held up great and never a problem. I have caught a lot of fish with it, including Walleye, Northren Pike, and Bass, and even got the line caught in a boat prop going wide open one time, held onto the rod tight, and all the line peeled off. I thought the drag was going to start on fire, for sure the reel was shot, right? But you know what, the reel still performs flawlessly afterward. Im not sold on this Ci4+ reel yet, even when put against my 50 dollar reel. Only time will tell, but I cant really justify it for you as of now, because of my limited use, and I have not even caught a fish on it yet, ice just got off in a handful of places 2 days ago.

Your lucky enough to be able to get out and cast, in southern MN, we are getting 7 to 10 inches of snow tonight as we speak, and all the lakes have over 2.5 feet of ice yet. Man I would KILL to be able to get out and cast into open water with the possibility of catching a, any bass, even a dink would be awesome. Nice reel, haven't seen one in person yet!

Give one of these a shot, stand out from the crowd, and see what happens. You don't hear anything about them on here, but many other sources say they are a great rod. Okuma Concept C3-40X. I checked other places a while back, and another site had them new for $130 shipped, but cannot remember the website now. Here is a link for reference : http://www.okumafishing.com/product/view/rods/tournament-bass/c3-40x

What are you going to be using the rod for?