jonnyblazex

I have used a Calcutta forceps with really good results, until I dropped it down my ice fishing hole a month ago, and lost it forever. There is a cutter if you open up the jaws, at the back of them, like some needle nose pliers have. It cuts good, and if the fish inhales your lure, you can also reach way down there and get it back. Here is what they look like : http://www.westmarine.com/fishing-tools/calcutta--calcutta-stainless-steel-tools-forceps-7-1-2--7245699

Seen Sunline also has the sniper BMS red fluorocarbon line (bite detection system) It seems like a good idea, or does it having color take away from the fluoro effect? One other quick question, casting distance with fluorocarbon on a spinning outfit vs braid, will I still be able to cast the fluoro, say 8lb about as far as I could 10lb braid (2lb diameter)?? Maybe I should just pick up a spare spool for my reel and call it a day....

Thanks for the comment on the rig. Yeah, I know its high money setup, but I wanted something really good, this is more expensive than all the other rods and reels I own probably. My first G Loomis too, I figured go all out, only problem is that I cant use it for a couple months at best, as there is over 3 feet of ice on all of the lakes, and we are getting another 7 inches of snow tonight. It has been so cold lately, winter is relentless. For reel performance, I always close the bail by hand, since I started using open face way back when I was 6 years old. Its the way my dad taught me. For line conditioner, lately I have been using Ardent Line Butter, I bought the kit with the cleaners. I think it has the reel grease, reel oil, line conditioner, and a cleaner solution included in the kit. The conditioner has been doing good, I use it on my baitcaster with 12lb fluoro, Seaguar Invizix, and the line flows off nicely. I really like the Seaguar products, but 40 dollars for a 200 yard spool seems insane. Can it be had for cheaper anywhere else? Also, how does this compare to the Sunline Sniper fluoro, anyone ever try both of these? Not trying to skimp on line here, just don't want to pay retail for it. Thanks!

Sometimes I fish this pond after work with the shaky head. That's all I can get them on. Anyways, this pond has quite a few weeds mid summer, along with rocks and some branches. You think 6lb would be sufficient? Don't know how tough that line is for sure, but I occasionally get hung up in the weeds, and pull back a 10lb clump. Would tatsu fluorocarbon still be ok?

Hey guys, just recently got my new spinning rod, a G Loomis nrx 822 syr. After short debate I went with a shimano stradic ci4+. Was wondering if braid would be a good choice for this setup? Was thinking 10lb, for the extra casting distance, and I was going to use a high viz for light bite detection. Not sure what others are running on these rods, or preference on floating or sinking braid and brands. I'm going to use this mostly for the intended application, shaky head, but may also throw some smaller weightless worms, flukes small shallow cranks, small top waters, and buzz baits or spinnerbaits. Was thinking about using 8lb fluoro, but sometimes I catch fish by watching my line, and it can be hard to see. Also, fluoro wouldn't cover all the applications mentioned above. Not sure if the rod would be too stiff to have enough give with braid tho, hope someone can help, thanks!

I used it for about 2 months last season. I didn't really care for it, really stiff and backlashes, then breaks if you manage to get the knot out. It gets very weak if it gets bent sharply. I took it off and put on some seaguar invizix. Awesome line in every aspect and 10x better than viscous

I bought a E21 Carrot Stix Pro Grade 6'9 MH F (no longer make that model) 3 seasons ago, and have caught literally hundreds of bass on it, including multiple 5-6lb largemouth, and my personal best smallmouth at 5lbs, he fought like a beast. Also caught lots of northrens, several large ones, one was 13 pounds, it hit my weighted senko. I even somehow snagged a 15lb carp right on the dorsal fin one time with a small strike king weedless jig. I thought I had the world record bass on, but it was the carp, and I landed it after a short fight, and the rod handled it well. I don't know why so many people talk down about E21. They are straight up awesome. I bought the rod on clearance, and it was 150, marked down to 100. Best purchase I ever made, and for 100, there is no better baitcasting rod. I use this rod as my main baitcast setup, and it does a lot of things well, I especially like it for texas rigged worms, lizards, etc. I have it paired with a shimano curado 200G7 and it is an awesome setup. I have tried different lines, braid, mono, and fluoro, always the good stuff. I now have fluoro (seaguar invizix 12lb on it, and like it a lot. Im standing up for E21 here, they are not crap like most say, in fact, I bet more than half people that say that have never even really tried one. They are impressively light, and extremely sensitive, yet very strong. These guys saying they break easily must have ran them over with their truck before fishing with them, or they whacked them real hard on the side of their boat, because I have put mine through hell, and it always stands up, but I try to take the best care of my equipment. Now im not sure on the "wild" series, same as black, green, or orange, but I know the PG pro grade rods are very good. I would not take any rod mentioned over mine, it is a good one!

Better not fish with it when it raining then! The other must be Conductive, like it you touch a power wire you will get a shock and die. LOL I couldn't figure out what they were, and thank you Jigs 4 Pigs for helping!

And what does a cloud with lightning mean, and the power wires? Why is that on there? Does it mean it may conduct electricity from lightning, and you wouldn't want to touch it on a electrified source? If so, makes sense. --- Jonny

Seen these symbols, did some searching, no results. What do they mean, and do all rods have it? Just picked up my first loomis, an NRX 822s syr and it is sweet. I tried to put a pic on but it Says the size is too big. Anyways, it says attention and shows 2 symbols in square boxes. The first looks like a tree/buffalo and the other looks like tower with a windmill attached? Best I can describe. Thank you for bearing with me!

Maybe I should just get a 10 dollar spin caster like the previous poster has on his NRX. Haha, that's some good stuff there!

Well I may consider the Stradic Ci4 or 4+ after all. Maybe they do get smoother after they get broke in, as stated above, at least I hope so. I prefer the 2500 size, and with its light weight and strong drag it should fit the bill. Do you guys think the ci4+ is worth $40 more than the clearance ci4? I have heard the regular ci4 had a lot of flex in the reel, and I didn't find the handle knob on the regular ci4 much to my liking in the store. The newer ci4+ is supposed to have a stronger frame and gearing, and I liked the knob a little better. Not sure, I don't have a problem spending 220 for the + if its better, as its going on a NRX so I just don't want a junker on there. It seems like a lot of guys recommend this reel, both old and new. Not sure which is better or if they are pretty much the same. Thanks!

Does the 1000 fj cast as far as a 2500 series reel even though it has a smaller spool? And is the drag about the same power as the bigger one? Like I said before, the ci4 just dosent feel smooth, even compared to the fj. It seems like the ci feels cheaper to me, than the older design, but the weight between a ci4 and 1000fj is just about even.

Just picked up a loomis Nrx rod, a syr 822, for shaky head. I'm looking for a reel to pair it with that will balance it well and excel at the shaky head (need smooth, be able to cast far with light jig, and a strong drag) I checked out the shimano stradic ci4 and 4+ today, but they just don't seem smooth at all compared to a pflueger patriarch or even shimano stradic FJ. I can pick up an Fj for 150, the ci4 or pat for 175 new. I was thinking the fj in 1000 size, but have a feeling its too small. The Fj 2500 is too heavy to put on the Loomis I'm guessing, at 9 ounces. I heard the patriarch, although super smooth, has a pretty weak drag. And I seen a Lews gold spin, there highest reel at 130 (pretty inexpensive) it seems like a good light reel, good 6.1 ratio, strong drag, good reel or not? Any input would be appreciated. Im trying to keep it at 200 or less, I almost think that is too much for a spinning reel. Thanks guys!

What is the dealer website, gloomis.com?

So if the seller has 100 % feedback on eBay, and has other similar rods on sale, but no pic of the actual rod, is that a red light? They have sold thousands of items. It's good to hear other people have bought rep sample rods, keep the sugestions coming!

Hi guys, have really been wanting to pick up a g loomis rod, and have seem several on line ads stating Rep sample rods, and the price is much lower than new. The difference is over $100 dollars in most cases. They state that they were used for demonstration purposes only and are like new condition. I have seen numerous ones on eBay, and tackle warehouse has some too, but you don't really know what you are getting in that deal from what I understand. Anyways, are these ligit, and how could it possibly come with a lifetime warranty if it is a sample rod? Should I just drop 425 on a new rod, or would a 325 dollar rep sample be a good buy? I just don't want to get caught up in a Chinese knockoff deal or a lying salesman selling you a beat up rod with nothing. Where is the best place to buy new G Loomis anyways? Thanks guys!

Which glx model length and weight would anyone recommend for an ideal shaky head setup? Thanks

Any G loomis shr822 shaky head rod reviews? Thinking about picking one up, especially if I can find one at 200 or less. Have always wanted a G loomis, and was wondering how they are for this application. Perfect tip, good fighting power? Supreme sensativity? I would really like to hear Your thoughts on this $250 dollar rod. THANKS!

Sorry about my location, I live in southern Minnesota. No bass fishin for me, there's about 2 1/2 feet of ice on the lakes. Haha. Anyone know when cabelas or bps sales go on? Right around opener? Thanks.

Thank you guys for the replies. I did a little searching and find a lot of guys like the st croix avid 6'8 med xf as their shaky rod. Its not a lot more than I was willing to pay, especially if it puts the other two to shame. Couple quick questions, how is the tip, is it super stiff, or does it have just the right give to work the shaky head with ease? Also, what would some of the other brand competitors be for this rod? I wouldn't have such a problem dropping 200 for a baitcast rod, but for a spinning its a little on the high side. If the rod is asgood as everyone says, it should be money well spent though. I wish I could hold one in my hand, but nobody in a 100 mile radius has them on hand. Thanks again guys.

Hey guys, first post, although I have been a troller here for a while. Good info on this site for sure! I'm looking at investing in a new shaky head rod, and need a little input. I have been wondering if I should get a medium light or medium. I cast mostly 1/8 to 1/4 shaky heads, and feel the med light accomidates those weights better than the med. I am thinking about getting a longer rod, 7 footer. My current setup is a 6 foot 6 Scheels Guide series spinning rod med extra fast, and has ni7 nanotechnology, 125 dollar rod. It is a prett sensitive rod, but leaves some to be desired. The reel is a shimano Sonora 2500 spooled with 20 lb power pro braid and a 10lb seaguar fluoro leader. I have caught a lot of bass on this setup last year, and a couple real nice ones. Anyways, what are the advantages of med light vs med in the shaky head world? Right now I have 2 spinning rods in mind, the Shimano Crucial m or ml in 7 ft 1 xf for $150 (that's my price range on a spinning rod) or the Okuma Concept C3-40x about $160 In the same length and action. The okuma is more appealing to me, but have not held one before. I held a crucial, and it seemed pretty light and had a nice tip, but its hard to say what it would feel like on the water. The Okuma is 40 ton graphite, which I believe is only IM7? And the shimano says IM 10 right on the blank. I have heard some stuff about the Crucial, but VERY little on the Okuma. It is Okumas top of the line freshwater rod I do believe. Hopefully someone here can help me out on these two, unless there is a better rid in this price range, and do I get Med or Med Light? Thanks!