masterbass

6'9" m/m is too short and too soft IMO for those baits. You need a longer rod and MH/M. The 6xd and 10xd are heavy resistance baits.

I used to use braid/leader for my senko fishing exclusively, but this year switched to straight fluoro to experience the added slack line sensitivity I've read about. The verdict? IMO fluoro is a touch more sensitive, but there are negatives. It's more finicky and with over runs you better be careful not to get kinks. Line memory is an annoyance, but kvd line and lure does help a lot. On a long cast the amount stretch has cost me hook sets. The good stuff is expensive and with fluoro I think the good stuff is worth it over cheaper brands. Braid/leader is plenty sensitive to me and I like the manageability of it. I have braid that's still going strong after 3 years. But in the end I'll probably continue to use fluoro and put up with the negatives and I'll also continue to use braid/leader on most of my combos too. To the op, I think you'll be fine with braid/leader.

If the noise bothers you then you could try abec7 stainless steel bearings like big green fish or hedgehog ZR. Hedgehog Airs are also more quiet than regular ceramics. I have Airs in a lot of my reels and love the ease of casting/pitching and added accuracy I get. They are expensive though. Never tried the zpi, but if Matt endorses them I'll bet their great.

Thanks for the tip Hootie.

I don't fish tournaments so I just like catching just about anything. Pike are a blast and although I've never eaten one, I've heard they are a fantastic eating fish.

This will be the demise of the zillion tws.

You might need to tighten the pawl cap.

I agree with you. It seems counter-intuitive for bass.

Japan lure shop

The main reason I went with a 1 piece is something you already alluded to...selection. A whole new world of choices open up to you.

When I tie the alberto I always cinch it by pulling apart the tag and mainline of the fluoro and then the tag and mainline of the braid. I trim the tags really close. I leave mine tied for many days until the leader gets too short. I also like the leader either short enough not to go through the tip guide if using micros or long enough to go through the first guide and not get into the reel on standard guides. No issues for me at all.

I'm watching the "bass dr" on wfn. The guy is using bulldawg rods and he said they work as advertised. Isn't Aaron Martens using these guides on his new rods? Does anyone have any experience with these guides?

It's tough for me advise you on how to spend your money, but there is quite a difference between the 2 reels your asking about: price and spinning vs bc. It all depends on your preference. The biggest piece of advice I can give you is buy from japan because you can get a much better price.

By 4" worms, do you mean senkos? If so, they weigh 1/4oz plus the bullet weight. That's pretty heavy and doesn't require a finesse bc reel. If you're leaning towards the stella than go with it. I use my standard bc reels for that stuff. My finesse reels I use for much lighter stuff.

Just my opinion, but I don't spend that much on spinning reels because I prefer bait casters. It sounds like you're looking for something to throw lighter stuff. I have no experience with the aldebaran 51hg, but have heard some mixed reviews. I almost bought one, but opted to stick with my 51e with avail spool, pixzilla and pxl r, so I'm set on finesse bc. Maybe someone else with experience can chime in on the aldebaran. In the end it all depends on what you want to use the reel for and your preference for type. If you're leaning towards the stella, I'd say go for it. As long as you can afford it, I'm sure you'll be very happy.

Thanks Glenn.

It sure sounds like you saved his life. Think of all the people connected to this man that you also helped. Great job.

If tied properly, it shouldn't fail. When I get hung up the line breaks at the hook or up from it. I still have the knot in tact.

Chartreuse works the best for me.

I don't own any high end spinning reels because I don't use spinning gear often and I'm happy with my pfluegers when I do. I believe that all spinning reels of comparable size cast the same. I'm sure there is a difference in smoothness of retrieve and long term durability, but I don't see the value of spending that kind of cash on a bass sized spinning reel. My pfluegers are going on 5 years and still smooth.

Try a different knot. I use the improved clinch with fluoro and never have issues. There are lots of choices.

I'll take my chances with the dremel. I don't see it as a short cut, I see it as efficient use of a tool. I spin them at 5,000 rpm's for less than 10 seconds then test with my finger. If they're clean I spin dry for another 10 seconds and add a drop of oil. I don't think it is any harsher than casting a few thousand times a week. I cleaned the bearings in 9 reels in about 10 minutes. Now if I spun them at a top speed of 32,000 rpm's for extended periods of time I would be nuts. After cleaning, they absolutely fly! So fast in fact, I don't bother buying abec7's anymore. The stock seem just fine for me. By the way, how fast do you think they spin during casting? I've heard the td ito type r spool did 30,000 rpm's.

That's why I use low speed and in short bursts because it doesn't take much to get them clean. I test them by spinning with my finger. For me it beats the heck out of soaking them over and over again. It takes me about 30 seconds clean, dry and lube 1 bearing.

I just wrap enough tape around a small drill bit and push the bearing on. I spin them on a slow setting and only for about 10 seconds and then test them.

I leave the shields on ever since I started using my dremel to flush them. I spin them in brake cleaner and give them a quick spin dry then add a drop of oil. It is so fast an easy.