MIbassyaker

I think the nighthawk is usually sold as a combo with a pflueger reel. I would expected it to be as good as anything you could get for $30.

depends upon what you are crediting them for...

There are two things going on here. To catch a bass on a lure, the lure needs to be (1) detected by the bass, and (2) once detected, it must draw a strike. Bass have good color vision, especially in the red and green ranges. They also have good low-light vision, and their their motion detection is exceptional. They are unlikely to be unaware of any lure that splashes down in their immediate vicinity....so most of the challenge is not in getting them to notice the lure, but in triggering a strike. Color may only be part of this trigger, and it's importance probably changes greatly with conditions -- in many cases, the profile, movement, sound or vibration patterns may be more dominant factors. However, characteristics of lures that differ the most from natural forage are those that should be at greatest risk of producing an adaptation response, both from avoidance learning in individual bass, and from selection pressure on the population. Even a bass caught multiple times has eaten many, many times more real meals than they have hit artificial lures. If bass who hit artificials are removed from the population at some rate that should only create selection if bass have some basis for distinguishing artificials from real forage. The more bass can distinguish an artificial bait from natural forage, the greater capacity there should be to evolve avoidance preferences against those distinguishing features. So lures that provide good imitations of natural forage should, if anything, protect against creating selection pressure through angling.

I use ML-xf rods (an LTB and an *** Black) for drop shot, ned rigs, sliders, and small keitechs and grubs (3 inch), usually with weights 1/8oz or less. My M-F rods (previous gen Aetos and silverhawk) get main duty for shakyheads and jigworms over 4", tubes, finesse jigs, and slightly larger swimbait and grubs, usually with weights 1/8oz or more. Generally, though, I think you can make a M-F work for most spinning jobs if as long as the weight isn't too small. Otherwise, if you're going to do more dropshotting and ned consider the ML. More tubes and t-rigs, get the M. I do have a current gen Aetos and and Avid X, but they are different models. The Avid X is M-XF, and it use it for weightless plastics, like stickworms and flukes. The Aetos is an MH caster; don't know what the new spinning models are like. Given the choice between an Avid X and an Aetos, I'd pick the Avid X, but I like them both.

Don't "end" your senko-slinging -- just add more tools to your toolbox. Three lures to try next after becoming proficient with the senko: (1) Weighted texas rig with ribbontail worm (2) spinnerbait (3) topwater popper All three are easy to fish, easy to learn, train important presentation skills, can be fished with both spinning and casting tackle, catch bass everywhere, and will permit covering top, middle, and bottom of the water column.

I can't think of any good reason to do this, honestly. If I had to do this, I'd choose Zoom, Berkley, GYCB, or Strike King. But why would I not pick and choose my favorite baits from each?

I have the sportsman connection book that includes @12poundbass's "lake X" here, and it does indicate smallmouth are present, even includes some (very) old survey data that turned up some smallies. Useful books, but as AJ indicates, the "notes" and "fishing information" on each lake are hilariously unreliable about how good the place is for each species, and what the best spots and techniques are to catch them.

Not sure I have much to chime in on, as my smallie fishing is strictly river-based, at the Grand, Thornapple, and Flat. The smallie lakes closest to me get so much recreational traffic, and/or can be so windy, I avoid them by kayak. Can you launch on Blue? I have looked it on the map, but it looks like a pretty long paddle from the Lincoln launch.

OMG, great thread!

I can't give advice on tournaments because I don't participate. But I do understand the need to streamline choices given limited space and limited rod selection, and to help organize on-the-water decision-making. That starts with making sure the lures you take cover a handful of presentation bases: First, think about where the bass are and how you will get the lure to them. You need the ability to cover the top, middle, and bottom of the water column effectively. So at least one topwater (like a frog, buzzbait, popper), at least one mid-depth bait (spinnerbait, crankbait, jerkbait), and at least one that can be fished on the bottom (jig, texas rig, shakyhead). Second, you should think about including baits suitable for covering areas and baits suitable for hitting specific target spots. A spinnerbait or buzzbait or crankbait will cover large areas, and can hit targets along their retrieve paths, but will not spend more than a second in any one spot, whereas a shakyhead or popper or jig permit you to cast to a particular spot, like bushes or a reed clump or a dock piling, and can be effective letting it fall or sit on that one spot for a few seconds or longer, and perhaps shaken or twitched in place. Third, give a thought to how exactly, and how often your baits will move - you want some suitable for horizontal movement, some for more vertical movement. Bass may be wiling to chase a horizontally-moving spinnerbait. Or they may be hunkered down, waiting for something like a worm to drop on their noses. They will often take jigs and plastics on the fall, so it's important to have something that you can let fall vertically. Some lures can do multiple things, but no one can do it all. But if you can cover the Top, middle and bottom, work both areas and specific targets, in both horizontal and vertical manner, that should permit you to be ready for a variety of situations and conditions.

They were upgraded a year ago to a new generation. I have an HMG spinning rod from the last generation, and an HMX baitcaster from 2(?) generations ago. They are both solid rods for the price (I think Fenwick generally seems to be good value per cost), and if you're getting a discount, all the better. One thing to consider is warranty -- I believe the HMG has a lifetime warranty, while the HMX is 5 years.

Texas rig and/or jig Topwater.

For some reason, nobody calls the Whopper Plopper a propbait, but that's basically all it is: a big propbait with a specialized propeller.

I have lived here 10 years. The main reason I haven't caught a musky is I haven't spent much of my time fishing Musky waters. Most of the river systems in my area have them, but the inland lakes with musky populations overwhelmingly tend toward heavy recreational use, which I avoid. So the game is basically to spend more time where they are present.

Lol, I know -- the sheer absurdity of the difference in size potential is hilarious. A 5lb largemouth up here is about 10 years old. However: I'm going to finally catch a musky this year. I can feel it.

Can you be a competent & versatile bass angler without being comfortable with spinnerbaits? How often I throw a spinnerbait has gone up and down over the years, but I simply can't ignore that (1) about half of my "high-numbers-caught" days were due to a spinnerbait bite, and (2) my current PB is a spinnerbait bass.

All downhill from here!!

Hey, after last year, middle of the pack sounds all right. I'm in, regardless. Last two years were a lot of fun and improved my mood during hard-water season a lot.

Me too, actually....

Watching it now, recorded earlier.... OK, this is pretty cool. "Dink fest." Heh, it's January -- I'll take some vicarious dink action over no action.

Awesome trailers for bladed jigs too.

I fish frogs with 2 rods: an older 7'0" H-MF Fenwick HMX, and a current gen 7'5" MH-F Fenwick Aetos. I'm pretty sure neither of these was designed as a frogging rod -- the Aetos was designed for C-rigs and swimjigs; the HMX maybe for flipping (?). But they both work well for frogs -- powerful, but with enough tip to launch a 1/2oz frog. I have no complaints at least. I expect eventually I'll buy a more frog-specific rod, but the ones I have both work well-enough for frogs that it's low-priority for now.

Awesome, thanks. A Supreme XT is headed my way for $60. Score! (Was hoping I would see a lefty Patriarch on sale, but no dice.)

Nah. You just wait until they're almost torn in half from wacky worming, and finish the job. Then each half gets a second life as a Ned body.

I bought a used copy of this book on ebay a few years ago for around 10 bucks. The first half is all about growing, rigging, and fishing live nightcrawlers...but what's most interesting is the second half of the book where it delves into structure fishing and finding fish. There are also chapters on fish activity, cold fronts, wind and other environmental conditions, boat control....it definitely deserves to be remembered for that 2nd half material, even if you're not a live-bait angler.