MIbassyaker

Anybody do this: take the skirt off a buzzbait and thread a plastic toad on? When would you prefer this over a regular skirt? Are there some buzzbait brands that work better than others for this? (like, bigger blades to keep the toad lifted?) Are there any toads work better than others for this? (lighter or more bouyant, perhaps?)

Booyah makes a white/chart colorado single spin (I have one) that is good for the price.

1. more inches per turn of line pick-up 2. to balance a heaver/longer rod A 3000 Shimano is approximately the same size as a 35 Pflueger, which I use on two 7 foot rods, one M, one MH, for exactly these reasons. Both have braid on them, although with a generous mono backing.

I will often thin and fan the weedguard, but I will only shorten it if it's really long, as shorter fibers take more force to compress than longer fibers. Skirts I will cut to 1/4-1/2 inch below the hook shank. Sometimes I'll thin the skirt too by cutting off the number of strands, or cut some strands a little shorter to give it a more ragged look.

Yeah, I had him for Okeechobee last year, thinking he'd be a slam dunk with a long history of wins and top 10s there....and he finished 103rd. Then I looked more closely at his overall record, and he's really all over the place: Boom or bust.

I have learned the hard way to ignore Chris Lane no matter the event. He's Fantasy fool's gold.

I had high hopes for this one, but it will end up being my second worst week. I had only Martens and Rojas fishing today. they're out of the projected cut for tomorrow at the moment, although I don't really trust any rankings below about the top 5, they're so tight. Scroggins, it seems, drew the short straw to be my mandatory bottom-20 bomb this week.

Yes, and the vibration is your friend -- as already mentioned, it provides valuable feedback about what's going on with your lure.

I bring 5 in the kayak unless I'm doing a river float, in which case I'll bring 2 or 3. But which rods I bring depends entirely on which body of water I'm at, which may be any one of a variety of small natural lakes, impoundments, backwaters, bayous, gravel pits, and river sections that can be very different from each other in habitat, depth, cover, etc.

In waters near me with significant pike populations, the bass tend to be good-sized.

No idea. I caught the bug immediately the very first time I went fishing at age 7 or 8. To be fair, there are a lot of supposedly "fun" things other people do that I don't get.

Mostly interchangeable, and I might use whichever pack I pulled out of the bag first. But OK, if forced to choose: -Flukes have a unique glide underwater when jerked forward, so will use them if I want to work the bait more horizontally through scattered pads, or along edges of pads. -Dingers and other stick worms are a little heavier and have the unique vertical wobble as they fall, so I will use them if I want to work the bait more veritically, up and down through holes in pads, and this is usually when pads are a little thicker.

If you cast a beetlespin where there are active bass, you will catch them.

I don't use a weight for fluke, but you sure can. A weight would be better if you want the bait to fall faster, or if you want to get it down near the bottom faster. I prefer to use flukes where I want the bait to fall slowly, and I'll use a different plastic, like a creature or worm on a weight. But there's no wrong way to do it. I use a 3/0 EWG hook, or a 4/0 Owner twist lock hook. Biggest problem with fluke durability is the nose. The twist lock hook helps with this and make them last longer.

Yes, exactly. Flukes are good for this, you can use it with or without a weight. Pause over holes between pads and let it flutter down for a few seconds before moving it further

I went with: A. Martens B. Rojas C. Tharp D. McClelland E. Scroggins

I had this problem too when I was first learning how to cast baitcasters, and the trick was to learn how to let the rod load properly. When you swing the rod back, the lure will follow, and you should feel the weight of the lure as it's momentum puts stress on the rod backward. That is the rod "loading". A "loaded" rod will propel the lure forward properly as you swing it forward. The leftward cast is partly caused by trying to fling the lure forward without the rod loaded. I'm guessing the cast is also pretty short, and your arm gets a little tired after a few swings. The trick is to swing back, and then forward in one motion, where the transition point is the moment the rod is fully loaded.

Where I live, bass might live in any puddle of water with good habitat and adequate oxygenation, as long as it won't dry up in summer or completely winterkill in winter. They probably get there from connecting waterways or flooding. The largemouth species is a few million years old, probably somewhere around 2 to 8. Natural bodies of water change much more rapidly than that. They can expand and contract, join and separate from neighboring bodies from flooding, droughts, fluctuations in volume from springs and feeder creeks/rivers, wet vs. dry years/decades/centuries...populations of fish and other critters in one place will have lots of opportunities to spread around to neighboring waters over time, on the order of 100s or 1000s of years, which is very brief in the grand scheme of things.

A small reaper on a jighead, fished similarly to grub, is a good river smallmouth lure,

This is the route I would go-- they have good deals on combos under 100. The ML Cabela's Tourney Trail + pflueger reel spinning combo is a good buy, and on sale online right now for $60.

Any ribbon tail worm. Culprit is a good choice, or Berkley Power worms. In any dark color.

Tapped into what I think was a final, but rich vein of pre-spawners here last week...the key was hitting the denser clusters of newly-emerging pads; they were happy to gobble either a Siebert Fogy or a T-rigged Zoom lizard. Some blurry pics of representative fish:

Let me try the direct route: They did not forget to respond. They already responded. They directed you to the next step by asking if you had read their pro-staff information. You already said yes, you did. The information clearly says you will get a pro staff discount upon placing an order. So there is nothing more for them say until you place an order, and start sending them pics of your catches with their jigs. They are not going to send you anything free until you prove yourself a successful angler with their gear. You need to do the work of using and promoting their baits to earn an upgrades on your discount. The pro staff information says this clearly. So place an order, get your discount, and start using and supporting their baits, and send them some pictures. After that, you can expect to hear more from them when you are eligible for an upgrade.

The switch happens because of a basic property of any rod- and cone-based visual system. We all experience a similar switch (or more accurately, a fade) to monochromacy at night for the same reasons. Light intensity at night drops too low (i.e., below threshold) to stimulate a response from the cones, so the job of visual acuity is left only to the responses from the rods. The rods are more sensitive to low levels of light, but have very wide tuning curves, so their responses are not specific to particular wavelength inputs. Rods by themselves can't support distinctions between color, but they support perception of slight light-dark transitions and movement very well.

Sadly, no state record. The biggest was only about 3 and half, but there were a lot around that size and some pretty fat. It was not a parade of fry guarders.