BiteFiend

Based on you guys' responses this would lead me to believe that the reason why I haven't been successful with the cheap Storm 6" Rainbow Trout the last couple months hasn't been due to murkier water. Rather it illustrates the importance of matching the hatch. The bass likely are not feeding on trout this time of year since whatever trout were left after the spring stocking have likely died off due to 80F - 87F water temps the last couple months. Thanks everyone for your responses.

Those look interesting. Any idea how much they weigh? Thanks. I really appreciate the advice.

Does this hold true for glide baits as well? Also would stained water ruin the effectiveness of the "S" action they have?

Since you shake slack when fishing a shakey head, I would go with flouro over mono. Flouro has superior slack line sensitivity when compared to mono. Provided that it isn't super clear water you are fishing, 10 lb should be fine. I find it easier to work with on a baitcaster than 8 lb; but go with whatever is most comfortable for you.

Thanks for the follow-up. I appreciate it. ?

What a great read! Sounds like the experience of a lifetime. One that I am sure you will not soon forget, and learned so much from. If you have the time at some point, a part 2 would be amazing. I, and I am sure others as well, would like to learn more about his attention to detail and a lot of the "little things" he does that the average angler doesn't think about.

I tend to think as the reel being more durable than the rod, so I generally put the bait on the reel. Plus with cranks, I find that it seems to tangle less on the deck of my boat. For spinning set-ups for finesse, it's hook keeper because where else would you put it?

Before I make the leap into swimbait fishing, I am looking to get some advice/opinions from those who fish bigger swimbaits (6" plus); especially those who fish them in stained water. One of the local lakes I fish is stocked with put and take Rainbow Trout early each spring and in mid fall. This past spring after the stocking, I began throwing a boot-tail 6" Rainbow Trout made by Storm with good success. I found them on clearance and figured it would be a good starting place to get my feet wet with bigger swimbaits. I seemed to catch larger fish with more consistency during the pre-spawn and early post-spawn period than I had in previous years. My eyes have been opened to the possibilities of swimbait fishing and before I go dropping a bunch of $ on a proper swimbait rod, reel, and swimbaits, I am seeking input from those who fish larger swimbaits, especially in stained water. Most of the water I fish (and the lake stocked with trout) has a max clarity of 3, maybe 4 ft after the ice has cleared and under calm conditions. The water clarity gradually decreases due to algae blooms usually beginning late spawn to early post-spawn. This time of year, water clarity is usually only a foot or two. This continues until the lakes ice over. As I said, I had a decent amount of success throwing a 6" boot-tail during pre and early post-spawn. Once the algae began to bloom however, the swimbait bite began to diminish. I am not sure whether this is due to the water getting more murky and making it more difficult for the bass to find the bait; or due to trout being taken and their eventual die off as the water warms. I would like to get some bluegill baits to fish during spawn through fall (both top hook and weedless), as well as some slow and fast sink Huddleston 68 specials (both top hook and weedless) to fish after the trout stockings in spring and fall. What I am afraid of is that since swimbaits are generally regarded as a clear water technique, will they still work with the water clarity I have described? Also, I have zero experience with hard multi-jointed swimbaits and glide baits. Will they be effective in stained water? Also, I am curious whether they make a clacking noise when they swim? Sorry for the lengthy post. I haven't found much info about swimbaits in stained water, and would like to learn all I can since I am very novice at this technique.

I have used Power Pro for many years. I used to try other braids to find one that is better, but I keep coming back to Power Pro. It's pretty inexpensive as far as braid goes, it's widely available, and it hold up well over time. I have only had one spool that frayed on me and I usually leave braid on a reel for 2-3 years at a time. When it whitens, I just color it with a marker. That said, I have been anxious to try the new Seagur Flippin braid. It supposedly doesn't fade. I just have so much Power Pro to get through though.

Two thoughts come to mind. When reeling, learn to put your elbow of your reeling hand toward your hip, if you don't do this already. I throw a lot of cranks and moving baits too and I used to get shoulder pain when fishing a few days in a row. I simply just had to change the mechanics of how I reel and point my reeling side elbow to my hip, rather than out. I have been pain free ever since. Don't know if that is the cause of your pain, but it would be worth trying. My other thought would be to go see a chiropractor. I used to think they were quacks for the longest time..... until I needed one. It helped the shoulder, back, and neck pain I was having tremenously a couple years ago. I have not had the pain and mobility issues I was having since then.

For those times that you set the hook and drag starts peeling right away, even though it is locked down pretty tight. No adrenaline rush like it.

Mimic the local forage and fish the points, islands, and any other structure areas. Particularly if it has some type of cover on it.

Yes, the Flambeau boxes work well. They also make just the tabs that you can drop into any tackle box. Another thing that helps with rust probably more so than the boxes is to leave your lures out to dry fully before putting them away.

As NYBasser said, you can pitch and flip a jig into the holes and edges of the weeds. A T-rigged soft plastic should work in those areas as well. Additionally, an unweighted senko that is T-rigged and dropped into holes should catch a few also.

Congrats! Way cool!

X 4. Smoothest operating sub $100 reel IMO.

This time of year, I tend to catch bigger fish deep. That's not to say that you can't catch the occasional big 'un shallow. Particularly if grass is involved and/or its early or late in the day. However, I find that I tend to catch bigger fish with more consistency in deeper water during the summer. Plus I think that those deeper fish don't see as many lures as shallow fish since most anglers beat the bank and fewer anglers are comfortable fishing deep.

The Ned rig. Can't buy a bite with that thing. Starting to think that perhaps this is due to most of the water I fish being stained to heavy stained and this serms like it would be more effective in clearer water. Next would be the Live Target Sunfish. Man, I really thought that thing was going to slay them since bluegill are a primary forage around here. Also, I am embarrassed to admit that I fell for the Banjo Minnow infomercials when I was 12. Man, I was so stoked to open that as a birthday present, only to proceed to not catch a single thing with them.

Overall Strike King makes some great baits across the board. Their stuff is decently priced and their lures catch fish. That said, I have favorite brands per specific lure. For example, I don't think it gets much better than a Lucky Craft pointer for jerkbaits IMHO. They have unmatched action. Spro gets the nod for me for hollow body frogs. They are more durable and don't take on water as much as others. I have undoubtedly caught more bass over the years on Berkley Power worms than any other worm (or lure for that matter). However, Roboworm is my favorite finesse worm and drop shot bait. I could go on, but you likely get the point. I don't fish tournaments and therefore don't have company sponsorships, so why limit myself to just one brand?

Both! Vary your retrieve until you get bit, then stick with that retrieve.

A couple of additional things that may help when using the techniques WRB mentioned, and when fishing a T-rig or C-rig: Slow down! When you think you are fishing slow and you are not getting bit, slow down some more. When not getting a bite for long stretches of time, many anglers begin to get impatient. Impatience often causes them to fish a little faster. Therefore always have "slow" in the back of your mind. Another thing that may help is to vary your retrieve each cast or every couple of casts until you get bit. Then stick to that retrieve. This is also true not just for soft plastics, but goes for other baits as well. If the retrieve you are using doesn't get bit, why continue using it?

Rage Craw and Rage Chunk in warmer water and Berkley Chigger Craw in colder water. Also, a local tackle chop makes great chunk style jig trailers that I like in colder water as well.

For me it depends a little bit. If I am fishing with a guest on my boat, I prefer to catch a bunch of smaller fish to keep them entertained. If it is just me or the wife and I; I tend to target larger bass.

It depends. Since leader material is more durable than regular fluorocarbon, it would be better suited if you are fishing jagged rocks or zebra mussels. If you are not, regular fluorocarbon will do.

No. For me it's the opposite actually. If I am on a good bite, or have just caught a big fish, once in a while I will get a little too amped up and set the hook on things that aren't fish. Mostly just weeds if fishing soft plastics, and wood if fishing a crankbait.