BiteFiend

Hello from a fellow Nebraskan.

That's what I have heard too, which makes some sense. I have also noticed that those baits typically aren't as oily as other brands that don't salt the outside, which supports this idea.

With deeper water nearby like that, I would definitely try punching through them. It's possible the bass may move up and under the mat and use the cover as an ambush point.

Very sorry for your loss. Your relationship with your grandpa sounds really similar to the relationship I had with mine, so I know your pain. May his memory live on in your heart and through you.

Nice!

Moving baits like crankbaits, spinner baits, and buzz baits. Perhaps trebled top waters too.

The longer I fish, the more I realize that one of the biggest ways to improve as an angler is to fish the day. I try to fish the present and be contiuously aware throughout the day. While this may sound somewhat zen and perhaps overly simple, it keeps me from trying to maybe force a bite that isn't there, or fish "spots" that have been fruitful in the past but do not fit with current conditions or a pattern that I may have established. By trying to be aware, I can "see" what my lure is doing in the water and the type of cover it is in. I continuously check my line for nicks, and re-tie often. I try to be aware of how the weather conditions are positioning the bass on cover and structure and try to be open-minded enough to make the adjustments necessary to catch them.

In stained to muddy water, I find that in general, dark colors produce best for bottom bouncing soft plastics. Whereas bright or white colored moving baits produce best in stained to muddy water. In less stained to clear water, natural colors produce best for me both in moving baits and soft bottom bouncing baits.

Just fish them where fish will be. You are on to the right idea and will be fishing them in areas that sound like they will produce. They are easy to fish. Many people just over-think it or fish them too fast.

Depends on the cover and water clarity. Generally though I like braid in grass and fluoro when little to no grass is present.

Depends on how thick the mat is and whether or not there is stalked vegetation below the mat. If you are just pitching to holes and the edges of the mat, you could probably get by without punch gear.

In addition to a frog, you can try a 1/4 or 3/16 oz weighted and pegged t-rigged worm or craw. Tex-pose the hook, then skin hook the hook point back into the bait. When you feel like you are begining to get hung up in weeds, lightly shake the rod to get the bait out of the weed. I find a lot of times, once the bait gets free from the weed, it gets bit.

I love working grass, so a frog over the top of it or a punch rig if i have to go down to get them . Also since I am starting to dabble in bigger swimbaits, that would be a close second because of the size of fish it produces.

Assuming those points extend into the water, I would definitely start there. Deep cranks, and dragging a c-rig, t-rigged 7''-12'' worms, and FB jigs in those areas should work well.

If I recall correctly, I was looking for reviews of a rod.

Braid to fluoro is ok on the dropshot, but I prefer straight fluoro for the advantage of slack-line sensitivity since you essentially fish the ds on slack line. When fishing a straight fluoro ds rig, I have came to appreciate the VMC spinshot hooks. The hook has a swivel that goes to the main line and another swivel that goes to the weight. Before, if I rigged everything perfectly straight and reeled in slow, I would get minimal line twist. However, with the VMC hooks, its zero line twist. This video really helps too!

In actuality I suppose just about any soft plastic could be used on a drop shot but if I am going to fish a drop shot, then I am doing so for the finesse qualities of the rig which for me mean light line, light weight, small hooks, small bait. If I am fishing a DS, it's because the bigger baits haven't worked or because conditions warranted it. Straight tail Roboworms are tough to beat on a DS IMHO, both in 4.5 and 6 inch. They have a somewhat unique quiver to them and dead stick really well. The Dreamshot and Zoom finesse worm are good too. The Zoom worm has a lot of salt though, so I usually work it more than the others so it doesn't hang down on the hook.

I absolutely hate fishing small, slow moving baits. It's so boring for me it's almost mind numbing. My nemesis is the dropshot and shaky head. But they catch fish. In fact, I don't think I have ever been skunked when I am willing to throw a DS. I have a ton of confidence in it, just despise it. To get myself out of the "cover as much water as possible in the short amount of time I have" line of thought, I first accept the fact that what I have been doing hasn't been working. If I am on my home lake I will always start my stupid DS on this one pile of rip rap at the bottom of a drop off in 10 FOW. That small area seems to hold at least 2 fish year round, every single time I fish it. Once I catch a few there and I get my confidence up a little bit, I will take that DS to other areas where I think there "should" be fish. Based on conditions and time of the year of course (obviously if I am not on my home lake this is where I start). Since time is short, I won't go fishing any "new" water; especially with a slow DS. I start in the area that I had the most confidence in that didn't produce with power techniques. If what I think are bass are showing up on my graph there, I'll throw that stupid DS and to my dismay I usually catch them. As you can tell it's a love-hate relationship I have with the DS.

Yes. Don't change if you are comfortable with what you have. You have to figure, there's a reason why there are so many different rod, reel, line, and takle manufacturers. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

It is my understanding that carbon graphite, or "high modulous" graphite is different than IM or "intermediate modulous". While true graphite is made entirely of carbon (carbon isn't graphite however graphite IS carbon ), what is marketed as "high modulous carbon graphite" in a rod seemed to be much stiffer than what is marketed as "IM" graphite when I was comparing rods, which is I think is why the "carbon" rods had higher weight ratings than "IM".As as the shimano line being underpowered, I can't speak to that. The Compre is the only shimano rod I have. However, IM graphite seemed to have lower weight ratings in other lines as well. I do agree that it does feel on the heavy side though. I just thought I would throw it out as an option in case you hadn't considered it. Good luck with your search.

I was in your shoes about 2 years ago. You might also consider the Shimano Compre DS rods unless you have your mind made up on the Fenwick. They make 2 models, both M. I have the 7'2" that I use for DS and light shakey head. One thing I found when shopping for this rod is that "IM" graphite is able to handle lighter weights in their power rating. So since it is IM9 graphite, it's weight rating is more on par with a ML. That said, IM graphite is a little more whip like than carbon graphite is. However I feel like it's just whippy enough to not pull those tiny DS hooks out of fish. I have caught hundreds of fish on this rod, using close to your line set-up and I love it. Super sensitive too. More so than my St. Croix Premiers.

Cabelas makes a hooded sun shirt made out of tech fabric that I really like. I pull the hood up over my head to protect my ears, neck, and the sides of my face a bit. My head gets a little warm at times but other wise it is actually a bit cooler than wearing no shirt. The sleeves are nice in that they have thumb holes so it's almost like having built in sun gloves.

Excellent comic and I think many people over-look or forget about his talents as an actor in serious roles. This, just like all suicides are a tragedy. Depression sucks. Alcoholism/drug addiction sucks. Especially when you can't imagine life with drugs and alcohol or without it; when sober even. I don't know if this was the case with him, but he went into rehab to maintain his sobriety so maybe. Suicide is a very permanant solution to a temporary problem. Even when that chemical imbalance in your brain that is depression convinces you that it isn't temporary or is even worth the fight. But there are solutions. I understand that this is a bass fishing forum but suicide is serious and easily preventable. I am proof of that. I say all this because who knows, maybe this post will help someone. I just hope Robin Williams found the peace he was seeking. Hopefully the "noise" stopped.

On occasion I end up setting the hook too hard when I'm flipping and pitching and fish become airborn in skinny water. This past spring I was pitching bluegill beds that were about 2 feet deep and a bass hit my jig pretty close to the boat. I felt a bite, set the hook, and next thing I know I have this dink bass flying at me and I caught it one handed against my stomach. I was pretty proud of my reflexes but I should probably calm down on my hook sets.

I like 3/8 oz and 1/2 oz. Sometimes the bass want a faster retrieve, which is why I will use the 1/2 oz. The more weight allows you to work it at a faster pace.