snapperd1

Thanks for the pictures that is preety much what I thought it would look like. I will need to give that a try the next time I am out. Tom D.

Anyone with a picture of the double fluke rig. I would like to see what it looks like rigged up. Thanks, Tom Delinski

You could deck the entire thing from front to back. Did that once on my cousins John boat. Made a whole lot of fishing space. Be careful though with that hull the v bottom and rounded transom will make it rock and roll real easy with a deck in it. Remember the deck will raise the center of gravity from the bottom to some where inbetween. Should be a fun project either way. I would use 3/4 inch pressure treated ply for the actual deck material. If you set things up correctly you should beable to use the existing bench seats to support the deck. Good luck, Tom D.

Don't let up on them, I had an old unit LCD 100 I believe that died on me. I had to send it back but they did actually replace it for me. You may have to talk to someone else there. No way should that mount break that easy. They may want the old one back to inspect so don't destroy it. Good Luck, Tom D.

Night time is one of my favorite times to fish. I like to start out with top water baits usually all black. I will even blacken the blade on a jitterbug. If that is not working I will go to the inline spinner mepps agel 3 is my favorite fished just off the bottom slow retrieve just spinning the blades. Deadly on the smallmouth. Good Luck Tom D.

So we have to put new holes in the boat every time we change them. The back of my boat looks like it was in a gun fight. I think there is more silicon back there then aluminium. Glad you got it done, TD

Think of it this way two motors on the back are only going to push 50# total the difference is that they will not be working as hard to do it. One will push 50 but has to work harder then two pushing 50. I just replace one 3 horse power golfart motor on the back of my boat with two 50# Minnkotas. I do run 4 six volt bateries hook up as one large 12volt batery bank however. And yes your 101 in the front will basicly be dragging the 36 in the back across the lake. You should try and keep them as close in power as possible. Tom D.

LBH did a restore on his boat that he posted and documented. I believe he listed the paint products he used. Might try shooting him an email. TD

3M 5200 is going to be a permanent fix. You will have a hell of a time removing it if you ever need to. 4200 is a little less permanent. Also 5200 will require several days to curry fully so don't apply now and fish in the morning. The best fix if you are not going to reuse the holes would be to mix some epoxy and cabisal(sp) to fill the holes. Should be available at your local boating center. Good Luck, Tom D.

The most important thing to remember when using the expanding foam is to leave it some place to go. Drill several 2 to 3 inch holes in the deck. You can always trim off the extra foam if need be, it is real hard to fix busted boat parts. Good luck, Tom D.

It depends on why you are painting it. If you are trying to keep water out you need to fix the leak first. Rivits can be tightened with two hammers, one to rest on the rivit and one to hit the other side. The one john boat i painted i got a special paint from Boaters world that was made for Aluminium(sp). If the boat is welded then you will need to find a welder that specializes in AL welding. Either way a boating supply store is going to be the best source for the paint. Good Luck, Tom D.

An easy way to remove the back bearing is as follows. First remove the pin and castle nut like you did. Second wiggle the wheel to loosen the front bearing. Third remove the front bearing but leave the hub on the axel. Fourth reinstall the washer and castle nut, does not have to be really tight. Now the fun part pull the hub assembly forward until the bearing hits the washer and castle nut. A couple of quick pulls on the hub and the rear bearing should be hanging on the axel along with the washer and castle nut. Good luck guys. Tom D.