Further North

I was in the same place, before I bought my first Terrova. Back then, nothing connected, no follow the contour, no following a mapped route...still the single biggest contributor to me being able to focus on fishing and not wasting time messing with the trolling motor. There are times (mostly following a contour, or a mapped route) that I don't touch it fora half hour, other than to change speed on the remote, or stop it with the remote when I catch a fish. Truly a game changer, for me.

That's how mine are set up. Just short of one rod length (to keep the knot out of the spool). Works great.

I think you're right, in that price range.

Crap, I didn't think anyone saw me that day... Kidding...I have my Calais DC on a 7' 9" heavy TFO rod with the specific purpose of chucking spoons (most often 4 1/2" Doctor Spoons) way, way far away up into skinny water for pike and musky. Nothing else I have can touch that rig for that purpose...but that rod, which excels at that weight, is at least half the equation.

...Sounds like that's from a 1950s science fiction pulp magazine...

The boat that's sitting in my garage looked like a scam...8 years old, condition so close to new the difference didn't matter, less than 10 hours on the motor, priced below market... I called anyway, figured calls are cheap. Turned out it was exactly as advertised, and it's been here four years now. You miss all the shots you don't take.

Looks like you spent a lot of time and effort getting this right - very cool. One question: the cover fo your spare...I'd be concerned water would get in there and encourage mold/mildew?

IMO, you guys nailed it: This is why I always recommend people go to a store, work with the units, buy the one that has menus that make the most sense to them. All the top brands are great, and do pretty much the same thing, plus or minus a gee-whiz or two. Make your choice based on what you like, not on some one else's opinion of "the best". I happen to like Humminbird menus, but that's what works for me.

Newer electronics draw a lot more than older units...this is the reason I went to separate electronics battery ( use a 31 sized AGM on it's own, isolated charger). I experienced the same thing as @Ratherbfishing with my electronics shutting off when I started the boat, and in one instance, found myself 5 miles from the lodge on Lake of the Woods with a starting battery that wouldn't crank the motor (not electronics related, there was a short in the charging cable for my trolling motor remote). Also, in my experience, on smaller lakes, the limited charging your big motor does for your starting battery does not get the job done. The lake I fish on the most is about 2500 acres, all in, and there's not a spot on it I can't be in less than 10 minutes...my starting battery always needs a bump when I get back to the house... I am on my 2nd year with a dedicated battery, the first with a 798si and 1198si, the second with a Helix 12 and a Helix 10. No problems with having enough juice for the electronics and my starting battery is as strong at the end of the day as at the beginning (I run little else on the boat: no radio, no live well, no accesories). There was an added benefit that showed up when I went to a dedicated battery and charger for my electronics: Zero interference, anywhere. Best images I've ever had. I can't prove it's a result of isolating the system, but given the other benefits above, I'll never do it any other way. ...also, not knowing what size boat and motor you have, or what other accessories you might be running off your starting battery: Is a 24 series enough battery for your rig? I use a 29 series lead acid for that duty.

This is just my experience, take it for what it is worth. While I love my electronics and they help me me find structure and sometimes, fish, a trolling motor with spot lock (and the other built in features like following a compass direction, following a mapped out course or following a contour) changed how I fished. It made me more efficient, let me focus on fishing rather than running the trolling motor, and when I have a fish on, means I don't have to worry about keeping one eye on what the boat is doing as much.

I concur with much of the advice above: Nothing less than an 80#, 24 volt system. I run a 112#, 36 volt system on my 18 foot boat. I made that call because of wind and current, but of which I suspect you have at least what we deal with here in NW WI. IMO, 4 people on a 16 foot boat is a recipe for disaster if you're casting and really pushing it if you're just jigging. I've spent a couple days fishing walleye out of a 1650 Crestliner with three guys...and while I love the boat, it was a day long PITA to stay out of each other's way and not step on something. I strongly believe you cannot have "too much power" in your trolling motor...unless the cost exceeds your budget. I ran a 36 volt, 101# Terrova in a Crestliner 1750 for a couple of seasons and would not have it any other way. Regarding charging the trolling motor batteries: You will need a charger. The only battery the big motor charges is the starting battery (there are some products out there that will divert some charging to the the TM batteries) but even that is minimal on relatively small inland lakes. Unless you are making long runs, you will need to top up your starting battery after each day's trip as well as the TM batteries. I would recommend a charger that has the number of banks you need to charge your TM batteries +1. For example: If you go with a 24 volt TM, get a 3 bank charger (two banks for the TM batteries, one for the starting battery). If you go with a 36 volt TM, go to a 4 bank charger. I've gone to what some folks consider over the top: I run three TM batteries and a starting battery on one 4 bank charger, my electronics are on a completely separate battery with it's own charger and a completely isolated system. I do this because I fish some big water (Lake of the the Woods and other Canadian lakes with few people on them) for long days (10m 12 hours) and I do not want to risk my electronics running down my starting battery. There are other ways to deal with this (self contained jump starters, for example) this is just my way. I am kind of a "belt and suspenders" guy when it comes to boats, so consider that when you make your choice. On the fish finders: All the top brands are great; find the one you like the best, don't sweat the small details that they claim makes them better than the other guys. They all have good GPS, mapping, 2D sonar and side imaging. Having menus that are logical to you is more important than any of the gee-whiz features. Great advice above on getting the biggest screen you can afford. I help a fair number of people pick out Humminbird locators every year, and without exception, every one of them* that has gone to a 5" or a 7" screen the first time around has been back for a 9" or 10" screen. *There was one exception: a 7" unit for a kayak.

My boat is black over cream, my (current) vehicles are that bright Ford blue and ruby red...works for me. As long as a boat/vehicle isn't an annoying color (think pink/purple/chartreuse for me) I don't care at all... ...and I am a graphics guy/printer by trade for 35 years...I know color. I do think it's cool to see others go to these lengths, makes me smile. Fun to read about.

It's money well spent, IMO. I have the last generation and love it, the new ones are better.

I'd go with the book. Anything else...and I'd bet they can tell when they plug it in...and you risk the warranty... I have an '05 with a Johnson engine cover on it (a Johnzuki) and love it. At about 200 hours, it's been bulletproof so far. I had a first generation DF140 before that...same deal. You'll love this motor. Smooth, quiet, doesn't use much gas...

Yep, I figured that. You spent considerable time thinking through what worked for you, and from what I've seen here, nailed it. Might be an option for other folks.

An Ulterra with an bow mount mounted off the side solves that...or a transom mounted 360°.

I have an Ulterra and switch between the pedal and remote depending where I am in the boat. Works great. It'll take a short while to adjust to the slower turning speed, after that it's 2nd nature. On the weed clumps, no problem either, though I second the idea of the Ninja Blade or Grass Goat. The power trim is the cat's pajamas, let's you run shallow without spending 5 minutes adjusting the depth collar or trying to manage a cable steer with one hand on the deployment cord... The Ultrex Is great...but no power stow an no power trim...that last one is a deal breaker for me.

All the leading brands are great, I have some of each. Pick your reels based on what you want to do, their specs, what you like best...and what you can get the best deal on.

Thanks for the info on the Bass Hawk models. I was curious, but not enough to deal with crowds at a boat show.

I thought I was the only one who did that.

I have a humorous question: Do closing your eyes and being in the dark make 2x harder?

While I think the FG knot is better (smaller diameter), I think the Alberto knot is the easiest line-to-line knot. Make certain the loop is in the leader (mono/fluoro/coated wire), and that your main line goes through the loop from the same side both times...and it's pretty easy. I tend to think the FG knot is easier than most people do (It's really just weaving a line trap), but unless you watch a video and think, "That looks easy!" I'd start with the Alberto. A double surgeon's knot isn't bad either, depending on low long your leader is...but it's not as a small knot as the Alberto, and nowhere the FG.

The batteries on my trolling motor are running under a constant load about 75% of the time I'm on the water...and for much longer periods of time...hours at a stretch, much longer than I run my big motor. They are standard lead acid and they last years. I did the math on the batteries a while back...on my boat they'd fit where the gas tank is, and/or under the rear deck. We'd have more weight in the batteries, much less in the motors. Google says Tesla batteries output 375 volts...batteries weigh 1,200 lbs. Close enough for government work. They claim HP equivalency at 382 - 691...even at the low end, there's not a lot of fishing boats that won't move pretty well...so lets drop it to 250 HP eq. to save a little weight on the batteries. Call it 1,000 lbs. even, just for fun. Did another Google, claims the Tesla motors weigh 70 lbs. An Evinrude E-Tech 250 weighs 507 lbs., a Yamaha VMax 250 is 539 and a Mercury Verado is 635 lbs. Average is 560, give or take. 60 gallons of gas is 378 lbs. 560 + 378 = 938 So we're 60 lbs. apart, actually ahead by 13 pounds if you're running the Verado. I left out the lower unit...so throw 50 lbs back in. 110 lbs. Trolling motor batteries are another 210 lbs, easy, add the charger...call it 250. Shouldn't need those. Looks like we're 140 lbs ahead with Tesla's Bass Boat. Get that big girl out the door for $60, $70K, no $180 gas pump charges on the Cabela's card for the boat...call that $5, $6K a year*...it'd sell like hot cakes as soon as anyone did the math...and figured out that an electric motor would get a boat up on plane right-freaking-now and run pretty much silently down the lake at 60 MPH... Drop that down into the real world where guys like me fish 19 foot aluminum rigs with 150 HP motors...even better**. Walleye guys could troll all day at 2% power, run back to the lodge at 45 MPH....and they can BS and lie about their fish in relative quite while suckin' down a Coors Lite on the way back... *For reference, I fish about 45-50 days a year right now, on well less than $400 in gas. The TBB would have to account for that...but we're talkin' about that 19 footer with 150 HP equivalent power. I think it's doable. **150 HP in my boat will touch 60 MPH. I've driven it, could have bought it...but didn't...glad I didn't, it balances better with the 140. The new Crestliner Bass Hawk is a virtual copy of my boat and is rated for 200 HP. That's gonna pop some eyeballs if you hang a Verado back there...My friend John has a 20' 2" reallyeffingdeepV Crestliner that'll touch 60 with a 225 HO Verado on it...1/4 tank of gas and two guys, no gear; I've driven that, it's pretty stable. A Bass Hawk with a 200 Verado is going to be like skipping a rock, but with less control. ***The Bass Hawk with a 175 Verado (plenty motor) set up like it should be, MSRPs at $45,840. Figure a smart buyer can buy it all day for $42K, maybe less. Boats are simpler than cars, by orders of magnitude. Tessla could do this. Partner with Lund/Crestliner...or better yet, Johnny at Bass Pro/Cabela's.

That's cooler that heck...but until they get pricing down to at least 4-stroke parity + gas for a couple/few years, it's just bragging rights and environmental smugness...and this comes from a guy who has been habitat focused since the 1970s... IMO, of course. People should spend their $$$ as they see fit... Gotta include the costs of charging, environmental impact of coal fired power generation, and $$$/environmental impact of battery disposal in that equation too... All that said...the idea of zipping across a lake at 45 MPH, no noise other than the slapping of the hull on waves and the wind...no carbon in the air...no exhaust in the water...Makes me smile... ...but I can't get 'er done at 4x the cost of the rig I'm running. It soesn't pencil...not even close...I'm not rich enough to support other people's dreams...

I had the same thought...there's a lotta BAMF Lund Pro-Vs running around this part of the country that would be shocked to find that out...