cottny27

Any 6'6"-7'MH combo will work just fine. I can't stand braid, but if you are using 30# its the same diameter as about 8# mono which is quite thin for a baitcaster. As a beginner, I think 12-14# test is more forgiving to learn on. If its not giving you problems then don't change it. Once they make braid that doesn't make all that noise going thru your guides then I may consider it. I see why people break rods...that stuff has NO stretch!

Didn't use glue. Took a dremel and a piece of the wood from a q-tip if you can find the q-tips with the wood. Taped fine sand paper around the wood and smoothed out the inside of all the guides with the dremel. That got rid of any of the rough areas. I think I started with 500grit and worked up to 1200grit. Anyway, it worked. I also put a higher quality Sic tip on it. You can use this same method to supertune the inside of a pinion gear. All is well now. Some of the eyes were too small so I had to roll up the sandpaper tight like a cigarette and manually sand away.

I have never used a Carrot Stik. Just handling them in the store makes me want to try one. They feel very light and well balanced especially the Wild Black model. I'd give one a try for sure. I like Duckett and I've heard they are basically the same.

Of course I do...somebody will.

ChrisD, I actually spooled up with some 10# Red Label. Handles pretty nicely imo.

I too have had no success with Senshi & Super Natural. Both handle nicely, but seemed brittle. I used both in 12# and had many break offs senko fishing. Knot strength seemed low.

I think I started at Chevy vs. Ford debate here. As far as comfortable and compact in the hand I don't think anything compares to the Lews LFS series. I don't have enough time in Lews to say much more.. I was just trying to stir the pot.

I got rid of my old Mojo rod because it was so tip heavy. I did like the finish on it and the cork seemed quality for $100. Of course, a buddy of mine picked mine up from the factory in WI for $20. It was a 7' crankbait model with a broken tip that they replaced. When I got it it was about 6'9".

The gray Carbonlite is on sale right now for $89. Thats a steal!

Hootie, I knew people wouldn't be able to resist

Save your money...buy Lews! Am I gonna get lynched on this forum???

I like slow ratios for all resistance baits and will also drop down to 10# fluoro for suspending jerkbaits.

I use 12# Seaguar InvizX, but a lot of people will tell you go to 15# test. Any quality 6'8" - 7' moderate action action rod works. I throw a Duckett Ghost medium action and it does just fine for me.

You can get them for $79 on sale and can't compare them to $300-$500 Shimanos also. They are quality reels that take a beating. When parts go bad they are easily replaced very cheap from Outdoor World in Springfield, MO.

This one: http://answers.basspro.com/answers/2010/product/10224165/bass-pro-shops-bass-pro-shops-pro-qualifier-tournament-baitcast-reel-questions-answers/questions.htm

I fished with my white Carbonlite all day yesterday..its super light and buttery smooth. Probably the smoothest BPS reel I've ever had was the PQ Tournament Edition. The the black one with the metal flake paint. Best $79 reel I've owned.

Hey I'm frugal! I like to get the most bang for my buck. Personally, I use decent stuff, but don't feel the need to drop $400 for a rod. I cannot feel the difference between a 100-150 dollar and a $300 rod. However, I can feel the difference between 20-30 dollar gear & 100 dollar gear. I like Bass Pro gear especially their plastics and reels. Their Stik-os I believe are the best on the market and prefer them over the name brand ones. I fish for fun though and don't do tournaments. I can understand why a serious tournament fisherman needs the best gear available. I don't shore fish though, but mainly fish from a kayak or pond hopper. I fish places where fish rarely see a lure and that's how I like it. I have no problems detecting strikes with an $80-$120 rod. So I guess I use more mid range gear. I do like Berkley rods they can take a beating for the cost. I grew up using them.

I like a shorter 6'6" rod from my kayak. I always try to get away with a "M" when possible they are much lighter than the MH models. If you are doing 1/2oz texas riggin with big creature baits then this setup doesn't work so well.

I bought two cheap Quantum Response micro rods last year on sale for $38/ea. Just seemed decent for the price and I needed some beat up pond rods. My cousin also bought one. All 3 of them frayed line like h*ll. No cracks in the guides that I detected, but a little bit of glue I had to sand and chip away. I ended up putting a lot of time into them to get them right and put new quality micro tips on both of them. They seem fine now, but I won't buy cheap micro guide rods anymore.

Sunline Sniper 16# is the same as the 15# Seaguar at least thats what TW shows online both at .33

I've never had a reel with a damaged line guide. Are you using a micro guide rod? Good luck detecting the bad guide. I'm betting it's the rod. I've dealt with this a couple times and it makes a rod useless. I fixed my with a dremel and some sandpaper. Went from 500 grit to 1000 to 1500. No frays in my line anymore.

I use 12# & 15# Seaguar brand FC's and have no issues with the regular improved cinch knot. I found out the hard way and learned that the knot needed wet and perfectly tied.

I have a 6'9" MH Smoke and its quite stiff for it's rating imo. It is very light. I balance all of mine pretty much at the reel seat before I even add the reel. The difference between a bottom contact setup and a cranking setup is the weight of another quarter or so for me. I don't understand why people see an issue with putting weights at the rod butt. Whats the difference between that and using a heavier reel? You are still adding weight to your setup. Most of your top of the line reels these days are under 6-7oz. Of course, all the balancing talk is just personal preference.

I have the Emotion in the 6'9" moderate action and like it. Seems pretty sturdy to me for $79 you can't go wrong.

To me that's a little overfilled. Soak the fluoro in KVD the night before and keep your line tight and there should be no problem. I even started using the cheaper Seaguar Red Label and have not issues other than the occasional loop in my line here and there. I throw weightless senkos and flukes on 12# test 90% of the time.