Ozark_Basser

I've used those boss jig heads a lot. I'm not trying to down the company. I've caught a lot of fish with those heads, but a lot of times the the eyes come enclosed with paint and the weedguards fall out. Also the paint chips real easy. Your best bet is siebert outdoors if you want quality for cheaper than a lot of other companies.

Whichever one their food relates to the most.

I bought one yesterday for 143. Its the cheapest I could find on there.

You're good.

Heres another way too look at it. Its all about how the weight of the bait loads and unloads off the rod. If you cast overhead with a quick "jerky" cast, you're not allowing the rod to load properly so its not going to benefit your cast. All it will do is cause line to come off the spool too fast for the bait coming off the rod causing an overrun. If you cast with an extremely slow motion, you won't backlash, but you won't get any distance either. Its all about the finding the happy medium which is a fluid motion of rearing back, feeling the rod load, and casting out just hard enough for the rod to benefit the cast the most. Let your rod do the work more than your arms.

Bottom contact baits like tubes, jigs, etc. always seem to work better for me in current in streams and small rivers. A floating jerkbait can be hard to beat anywhere else as long as the water is warm enough. All in all, there is no right or wrong way to approach your situation. I would try every way and see what works at any given time.

For DEEP cranks, I feel the longer the better. Longer casts is pretty much the only reason for me.

Rods- -100 tfo signature series 100-200 Croix premiere 200+ custom Reels -100 haven't found one 100-200 curado I 200+ daiwa zillion

If I was going to fork out that kind of dough, I'd go custom with North Fork Composites HM. Gary Loomis actually designed the blanks. I'm not really sure if he designed the NRX. I know that GLoomis sold out to Shimano back in 97. Maybe someone else can chime in on this. I know that Gloomis still manufactures out of the same place, but I don't know if Shimano has taken his designs into their own hands.

When you get the hang of it, pinpoint accuracy at 30 ft is no problem with a fluid motion in the wrist. Longer rods help.

As far as an arky head compared to the poison tail, I haven't noticed a huge difference in depth if any. The thickness of the skirt and weight of the head seem to be bigger factors in determining depth.A 3/8 oz head with a thick 60 strand bio silk skirt is a good choice if you want it to stay higher in the water column with a slow retrieve. The bio silk really wiggles behind the blade as well.

Yamamoto swimbaits.

Aah I see. I don't have a mold for the head you use. The mold I have for the swim jig head is the poison tail. It's triangular and keeps the bait really straight. I haven't noticed one kick out yet.

Have you experimented with head shape as far as how the bait hunts? I've noticed that arky heads hunt a lot better than swimjig heads. Especially with no trailer.

What I meant by fill the spaces was just make sure there was a layer of epoxy connecting the arbors, as with tape arbors.

Thanks. It's the MVT Toray trigger reel seat by Alps. It's set up like the Fuji ACS with the exposed blank and the built in "ribs" so you don't need arbors.

People at bass pro are generally pretty helpful with stuff like that, but it depends. Did you just grab it off the rack and check out up front? I would try to get to know people in the fishing section. They can help you out a lot in times like this along with anything else related to fishing.

Jerkbait

I will be making a carbon fiber handle with polyurethane shims spaced out under the handle. Do I need to epoxy the spaces between the arbors to make a "unified" bond? Also, I will be using an arborless reel seat. What's the best way to go about epoxying it to the blank? I also want a trim ring between the handle and reel seat. I'm not really seeing a way I can epoxy it to the handle or seat neatly? Any suggestions?

I usually only throw them in really clear water, but that doesn't mean they won't work in dirty water. I really don't have a lot of confidence with small swimbaits in stained water. Usually just throw a chatterbait, spinnerbait, or something else with a little more "presence". I could see myself trying it on tough days though.

I don't think they make any of them necessarily hard to use, but I find mag breaks more convenient than centrifugal brakes. Also if the spool is "whiffled" its easier to tie line to.

I've always had full coverage because the bank requires it for a loan, but I would highly recommend it either way. Peace of mind when it comes to a boat is pretty important if you ask me.

Fast or Modfast depending on who makes it.

The hooks on the original are not that great, but the other versions are said to have better hooks.

The only ones I have left are 1/2 oz in these colors with Mustad wide gap hooks. I use owner hyperwire split rings, and the heads are powder coated, heat treated, then a clear coat is applied over the top once the eyes are in place. The skirts are wire tied as well.