fishangdood
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Everything posted by fishangdood
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It's because of kayaking that my backhanded casts are as accurate as my forehanded. I like roll casting but I couldn't do that on my yak when targeting to my left. Try practicing with a plug seated on the ground. It just might be the ticket. It's a bonus when you rollcast it- my 3/8 spinnerbaits get distance like an overhand, but with such a low trajectory and a perfectly timed thumbing, it'll gently drop like with flipping and pitching. The learning curve was super oogalooey. You will be slapping the water on occasion, but you will be the best bird nest untangler.
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Dude, you've got an LTX between owning an SX and MGX (assuming you're talking about the gen 3 SX). You can always order the LTX spool from Purefishing US since it's finally available mainland. Plus the spools are marked down by 20% when ordering directly from them (S&H is bull crap so make your order count). Just pop that baby into your MGX, and pop on your SX's palm plate and BOOYAKASHA! It's an LTX.
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Just opened a can. I'm following this post!
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That Jamie guy is hit or miss among the surf/tournament casting community. His reviews are pretty Captain Obvious, but then again, there are still those that are still new to the world of fishing and that's his target demographic.
- 73 replies
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- shimano
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First I zeroed out the brakes. Got the 3/8 oz lipless dropping about 1 ft per second on the mechanical brake. Dialed the the knob half way then chucked. From there I ease out on the brake dial and then the mech knob/spool tensioner until the fluffing starts. With 3/8, you can probably just do one brake arm with slight thumbing.
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d**n it man, you're on the same waiting list as me. Last I called, about two weeks ago, Clint, probably the most layed back and helpful tech you can ever speak to on the phone, told me that me that about six others called that same day for them.
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I brought up the 2500c in regards to the spring mechanism on the spool shaft, like on Daiwa's magforce (I can't recall which one). I know the spring on the pinion shaft helps in re-engaging the pinion when the ratchet pins returns the clutch/thumb button. Of course it's a two-pin centrifugal compared to a modern swing arm centrifugal system with an externally adjustable brake racing, but I don't think it can be enirely ruled out that the 2500c has nothing in comparison.
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Oh man, I casted my bud's Chronarch CI4 after servicing it. Spool stopping power, about the same. Overall tolerances, I'd give it to the Chronarch. No bias here coming from an Abu Guy. I also like the body styling on the Chronarch. But casting distance, IMO, is about the same. Then again, if it was my Chronarch, it would have been TLC'ed; I had to remove moss off the levelwind. The poor reel was rashed up ten ways to Sunday and was only a season old. However, I can't make a proper judgement call for casting as the stock bearings got a 8-10 second spin time after a complete flushing and light oiling while my Premier, at the time, did not get it's end of season servicing yet. Now speaking of Doyo, OEM still comes before Jarden thus leading to my installation of Lew's Speed Spool (before the lighter faster stronger slogan) thumb bars onto my gen 3 revos; I hated the fake metallic finish rubbing off. Also, the Aluminum shafts of the Johnny Morris Carbonlites are an exact fit on the gen 3 revos and probably for the Speed Spools as well. The only difference is the level wind gear at the bottom of the drive shaft, but if you just match up the right part # to it, it'll work on the gen3 revo.
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At 7 years old, I can remember my dad buying my first reel at a flea market- it was a 2 maybe 3000 size ryobi spinner. It worked, I caught fish, and it survived my time of possession. Fast forward 10 years, I grab hold of my first baitcast reel, an Ambassadeur 4500. It was a two hour break in period before I got the gist of casting it. It was a memorable experience comparable to learning to drive manual. That reel survived until it got ran over- long story. Finally you go back to the future, 32, I'm a full fledged tackle junkie. I'm an Abu guy, but I can truly appreciate all brands as I've become the unofficial reel maintenance go to guy among my fishing group. My best are in the low high end: revo3 inshore, premier, stx, and sx. All of them have been changed into IVCB-VI brakes and premier spools, yet I still believe dual brakes are tad bit more effective. Anyhow, I enjoy the reel tech of today, but also enjoy the simplicity under the hood of the old school reels. Obviously new tech builds upon the old. However, it's funny because this past winter I've invested into three Ambassadeur 2500c model reels and I like them so much that they are probably going to share half the workload this season. Long-story-short, preference is preference and quality is subjective.
- 73 replies
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I'm not going to lie, I'm an Abu Garcia guy. It's the parts availabilty, for the most part, and interchangeability between models that make me stick to Abu. I know that every brand has their minor differences one model up or down, but this time Shimano's finally caught my eye with the new Aldebaran. Now every brand has their own defining terms for mechanisms within a reel, but if someone here can elighten me on this 'Silent Tune'. I read that it's suppose to greatly reduce or completely eliminate tolerances of the spool bearings when casting via small springs installed behind each spool bearing (seen on google image search). The Ambassadeur 1/2500c has a similar mechanism in which the long end of the spool shaft has a spring installed and the other end is independant from the pinion gear shaft (like the new revo3s except the S) which rides on a spring loaded nylon bushing; essentially it's like the silent tune, but the Ambassadeur seems to involve the spool itself rather than minimizing the tolerances/vibrations of the spool bearings of the silent tune. Similarly, the centrifugal brake arms, as also seen in other models like the curado and chronarch, is the equivalent of Abu's IVCB-IV system; only real difference is the locking arms and brake racing adjustments. Are there any members out there as enthusiastic about reel mechanisms like me (I'd rather be catching bass, but when it's cold, this is where my mind wanders off to)? Please let me know any comparison in castability between the IVCB-IV or VI system, the 1/2500c (stock), and the 2015 Aldebaran. I'd especially like to know the difference between the mgxtreme, mgx, and Aldebaran. Tight Lines, Fishangdood ... I'd go off onto mag braking systems, but that's just another can to open.
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Clear, as in 8-10 ft? Go natural colors first, then brighter. The way you describe it, they might be bedding. Try creatures/lizards and cast away and slow retrieve to the nest. Pause every once in a while, you may see a buck follow. The closer you are to the nest, the closer you are to a reaction strike. Do it enough, big mama may follow. I use to do this, but the more seasoned as a bass angler I become, the more it becomes less sport to me; almost like breaking bass angler proper etiquette. Some regions ban spawn fishing entirely. However, I think top water is a little more fair game because you're not 'rough-housing' the nest itself. You may scare off a buck or two, but they will comeback.
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I know you said that you aren't partial to the carbon fiber on the ambassadeurs, but did you see the carbon fiber counterbalance handles? That's oldschool with newschool flare. I'd love to sprinkle some of that on my abus, heck, even on a cranker low pro.
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The bblxm is about as short as I've seen them from nut to handle post. 2500c has an 80mm, post to post, for scale. Amain.com or maybe even rcbearings.com may carry bushings to you specifications for a custom revo eva knob fit. Posts- I've toyed with the idea of using aluminum rivets and then chop/grind/dril tap. Regardless, customizing is always great. I've also just finished a simple-to-remove mag assembly for the 2500c brake plate. All you need is a nylon washer with almost the exact outer diameter of the bearing housing, cut it into a c-washer, and then hot glue the earth mags.
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Where there's a will, there's a way. Where there's a will, dremel, and a twelve pack, there's a better way.
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Aha, that's an old school lew childre handle, huh? My first 2500c was like that too.
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I 've never ordered from Purefishing Japan, have you or do you know if they still carry the 5.3 and pinion. I got the main gear from the US, but not the pinion. I've gotta start looking overseas for more factory parts.
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I'm diehard Abu but this Alphas is probably one the best straight out of the box deals. I know I saw it mentioned on this site with somebody scoring it for just under 200. I could imagine if Abu packaged the SX with a shallow spool, it'd be right around the the same class.
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I'm close to pulling the trigger on my gen3 stx-hs: carbent handle, premier spool, ivcb-vi brake system swap (including palm plate slide cam), and changed the knobs, thumb bar, and front cover plate to match the silver body. It's pretty much the Revo Elite 8, same specs: 8:1, ivcb-vi. The only difference is that the Elite has a shallower spool and the drag stack has the clicker like the revo inshore or the oldschool ambassadeurs. I might post this onto the flea market forum for a 1600 or 1500 trade.
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Brake plates, yeah, I know for sure the gold ones are impossible new. I got lucky on the IAR plate, standard black, last January or maybe it was December, but that was from Purefising. Btw, the C4, is just another bag of addiction I've recently jumped head first into this past winter. Dadsoletackle can confirm, haha.
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Plates are in the planning book. Yup, I'm partial to the classic red, original c4 blue, and the c5 mag green colors. The boss rides higher on the iar models, the brake plate shaft post also rides longer, along with the longer drive shaft it requires. My middle one actually has the longer shaft for the iar plate, but it has the non iar brake plate. I had to drill tap a 3mm or so thread into the post to secure it with a washer and recessed screw. The D series drag knob I put on the middle one actually exposes the longer shaft just a wee bit when loosened all the way because of the shorter boss. It may sound crazy, but I might order an IAR gearside plate and then remove the iar just to have the longer boss; I just can't go back to the two pin ratchet of the original drive shaft. The only one of mine with the IAR and matching components is the far right one. The left and middle were pretty much the spawns from my IAR build. Haha. Funny thing though, is that without the iar dog, it's pretty fun; kind of like a knuckle buster. I think I might remove the anti-reverse dog on the ct converted one; full manual control.
