Bartableman7

After a year and a half getting nowhere on how to 'mark' an actual underwater location, not the console unit location, I finally solved it. There is NO "Pause" button on the screen...there is NO "Select" button on the screen either. (Numerous sources kept telling me this is how it is done...wrong.) To get the cross hairs to come up so you can pinpoint a brush pile or rock: you swipe your finger in a half circle motion across face of the screen. This pauses the image, and you can now touch the item you see on the screen which places the crosshairs there, and then hit "Mark" waypoint. Someone on YouTube posted this helpful tip. I didn't see it anywhere in print.

Here is where I get confused. There is no "Select" button. There is a "Mark" button on the screen which only puts a 'waypoint' where the console is located. Where do you see 'Select'? Thanks all.

I'm going to unplug the back transducer and plug in the front one. No interference that way. An Echomap 73 CV has no crosshairs or touchscreen for waypoints. Or... mine has been bad for years.

My understanding is that this unit "marks" waypoints with the mark button, not by any touchscreen capabilities. So, when I see a boulder or brush pile it is really marking the location of my unit, not the actual item on the bottom of the lake, which is at least 10 feet behind the boat. I only have one console unit with the transducer on the back of the boat. My plan is to mark an object, then switch to a front transducer drive over the object again and mark it. The console GPS waypoint should now be nearly right over the object and much more accurate for later casting. Good plan?

When running at full speed the charging voltage is 18.3v. At rest I see 12.7v. I changed out the regulator...same issue. How can that be? I'm seeing the voltage changes on my Garmin unit. I'm concerned this is too high and may damage the battery and/or the Garmin.

Just saw an ad for their Springfield, MO Fishing Fair. $12 to go shopping?! What am I missing here?

I've been taking plaster of paris and putting in an original bait coated with vaseline. Plaster dries and I remove the lure. This gives me an easy to use flat pour mold. Ideas from all? How do you make a mold? Thanks.

Using a microwave...on high? 50% power with longer time?

What's the best way to melt down small pieces I cut up to re-mold? Small pot on a heater coil? Microwave low? I tried a pot, but it kept starting on fire. What's the best technique? Thanks for any guidance. I just want to hand pour into an open mold.

Anyone fishing big lizards on a regular basis? Not those skinny 8-inch models but the fatter 10 inch plus models out there. Any tips or hints I can use this season? I'm going to give them a try.

Just a note on bladed jigs that spin instead of vibrate...the weight of the jighead is too light vs the water resistance on the blade. If I have an issue with anything that spins...just add split shot onto the hook shank until it runs level and vibrates. Runs a bit deeper but that's OK.

Has anyone found a good replacement for "Scrounger Head" type wobble jig head rubber? I want to make my own. I bought 2 to get the feel. I tried a coffee can lid...too thin and not "rubbery" enough. Needs to be soft but thick enough. What's out there? Thanks all.

Completed my first craw chatterbait. Cut big blade from sheet metal. Drilled holes with drill press. Applied orange reflector tape. Super glued the edges. Home made jighead from egg sinker cut with a hack saw...squeezed onto a 7/0 Owner hook in my vise. Power painted bright orange. Skirt wired on...and craw Pit Boss glued on. Swims awesome in my tub.

How do you think the lure manufacturers determine if their scent is the "way to go"? Coffee? Smells good, but is it really just a human scent cover up? I think shad or crawfish spray keeps my jig or soft plastic in their mouth longer...but who knows. Did Berkley test power baits on "spit out time"?

What are the advantages or disadvantages to having the blade on the jig eye or having the o-ring between the two? Action different? One have a different purpose than the other? Thanks for any and all information.

I want to build or buy a big bladed chatterbait. Like 2 inches or bigger with a 7/0 hook. How do I get the thin metal to just cut and make my own. Musky size for BIG bass. Ideas?

That will be on my "to do" as well. Hope someone here has has experience with it. I'm thinking the DNR would be tight lipped.

I was talking to a friend of mine who lives on a private lake with homes all the way around except on the dam end. He told me that they (home owners) used the DNR to stock the lake with bass and bluegill. Because of the DNR stocking, the lake must be open to the public for one day a year. He said they picked New Year's day (so it would be too cold for anyone to show up). They also never say a word about this rule. Anyone think this is possibly true? Or is he full of do-do?

You throw a basic 3-inch green square bill down the edge of a fallen tree and a 2 pound largemouth grabs it. Back up time...you throw a 3 inch long green chatterbait down that log. Same reaction? Bass are finicky enough to want one and not the other? Direction I'm going: Shrink my arsenal down to become more efficient on the water. I'm a huge "Jig man" on all waters. Maybe a green charterbait is a better tool under most conditions compared to a square bill. OR...NO WAY! ??

I'm always searching for deals on lures. ( I'm sure all of you too) E-bay, Amazon, Sporting Goods stores etc. After adding in tax and shipping it still seems less expensive to just visit a store when it comes to fishing items. Are there any sites with free shipping that have the best prices too? I'm thinking not.

The first cold weather months usually means it's time for the boat and fishing shows. Usually a few pro bass fishermen give a seminar. If you were to give a talk...what would you discuss? For me...fishing large skirted twin tail jigs. I have them on different rods all the time all year. No weed guards, different weights, swim, pitch, drag, topwater, lakes, rivers...I live on them.

The topic of rattles attracting bass has been beat up and I think we can agree that bass are curious and come to the noise. BUT...do you think a jig with a rattle slightly tilting in the water actually makes a noise? Actually rattles the bbs? You can't shake a jig up and down fast like you do in your hand. I'm experimenting with rattle position. Rattles on a jig hook shank actually roll from one end of the rattle tube to the other..they don't blast back and forth. I really want my jigs to be noticed in muddy water. What are your ideas? Thanks all.

I'm reading that the "winter" bass will seek deep water to lessen the effects of cold water changes during the winter months. Will these be the exact same locations that they retreat to in the dog days of hot summer? Or are the locations different in some way?

I see numerous articles about shortening the leader in the colder water. But the bait is really on the bottom regardless of length most of the time. (Except with a super buoyant lure.) So why change the length?

So unless you throw a marker buoy into the water when going over an object...you are NOT going to know exactly where that brush pile is under the water? I'm thinking no way.