BASSPATROL247

There are sooooo many other factors that play into it.. no two bodys of water are the same big or small. What works on one may not work on another....

x2 excatly! But im not ignoring fish that i do see with it... but totally agree 1. Find structure,depth,bottom content etc....2. Fish

do you like your sx? I have a gen 2 sx and i really like it. Never held a rocket but id bet theyre nice. you get what you pay for from abu....

I own the mark rose combo and the black and silver max reels, i also have a vengence spinning rod. If the casting rods are like the spinning rods i would say they are ok, both max reels i like and obviously the silver casts better but they both feel the same to me. The mark rose combo i also like, the laser LZR reel is just a laser MG with cosmetic differences and casts the same as the MG(wich i also own one of) and id compare it to the silver max. The mark rose rod is good for the money imo ive fished ratltraps,chatterbaits,spinnerbaits,square bills and crankbaits and it works well except i dont throw deeper cranks on it anymore because it didnt work very good and i now have a cranking rod, it fishes sauare bills fine though....go with the mark rose setup. If the make them in 7' id go that route, mines 6'6"

ive bought and used tons of different plastics, craws included. What i look for in a plastic craw is how fast does it need to move to get the claws flapping, if i cant drag it very very slow and get the claws to move i toss em out.Same go's for any plastics i fish. im not concerned much about how they look, bass dont eat baits cuz theyre pretty, they react to the action at least thats my opinion. I have a buddy who pours his own and thats what i use, they almost impart action sitting still and thats key for me...

Actually i beleive the magnets help the end of the cast not the beginning, and the cc helps the beginning of the cast.. but thats with no cent. Brakes

Grease

I never use more than a 18 inch leader, waters round here are very stained at best,i used the double uni but found a better one on youtube but forgot the name, alot smaller

Yep, pretty cool stuff, good luck with it and post some pics after you make some...

Wich knot do you guys use when attaching a fluro leader to mono or braid?? Just curious...

from day one until recently i always had my brakes set to off or freespool and always had my cast control lose to almost the last thread.. sounds crazy but thats how i taught myself to cast.. finally got a better grade reel and now use both brakes somewhat, feels akward though...

Ive bought a sheet of carbontex and cut my own washers out and replaced them on reels with lesser drag washer material, polished spool tips, added dual worm bearing worm gears and cog wheel bearings to my round abu's. Ive also polished the edges of my spools on the ones i could and have been soaking every bearing in all my reels for the last day or so and will rinse,dry and check them and replace the bad ones...

Search youtube or google for dakotalakestackle. theres a good video on how to make them and everything else you may want to know..

x2

Ive used both and found thAt the cx is a bit stiffer Thought about using some line treatment but after i read the thread about fluro and its false claims as soon as i respool a reel that has it on monos going back on it, heck i used it for 30 plus years and it worked just fine, i only bought the fluro this year to see what all the hype wS about and honestly other than it sinking im not impressed and ive had knots pull a few times and that never happened with mono and its not very manageable... pulled even with the "hank parker knot" i use from youtube...

yes sir thank you..

X2

fished with a buddy today and he showed me something that I thought was very interesting. on the way back to the ramp he stopped at the first spot we fished on a earthen dam covered with rock(bowling ball size) where we did not get a bite and tol me to grab my rod with a lipless crank and he had a chatterbait, he told me he was gonna cast right to the bank and as soon as his hit the water for me to cast right to the same spot and hold my rod to the side and start reeling fast while twitching,jerking,stopping,speeding up,twitching,stopping etc... while he held his rod to the side so our rod tips were close to each others and he was gonna do the same type retrieve to make it look like my bait was chasing his...anyways we tried it and nothing then on the second try he caught one and had this look on his face like he knew we would get bit.. then after he released he fish he said theres a good chance w can get one or maybe more just making regular casts and sure enough my next cast got a fish.. we tried it again in one more spot with no luck, he said him and his brother have been doing all spring and that some days it works and some days it don't. he has a theory that doing that makes the fish think something is chasing food and their instincts take over and make them bite when they are in a neutral mood.. was or is it luck? I don't know but the fact it worked once convinced me to try it more often see if theres actually to it or if it was just coincidence....

seems to me that it would get hung up a lot, if theyre hitting your sinker why not just throw the jig alone first an see what happens???

maybe so... be a nice change that's for sure! hahaha

actually carbon fire(CF1SHL) says 8(7+1 one being instant anti reverse bearing) and to correct myself it actually has 9 and if you count the anti reverse bearing it has 10. 4 handle(2 each knob),spool tension bearing,2 spool bearings,driveshaft bearing and the worm bearing.. the laser(LZR) says 6+1 but actually has 9. same as the carbonfire minus the worm bearing.. maybe im thinking of my max reels that show less than the actual reel?? gonna have to check, I swore it was my lews but either way those have more than the reel says...

cant give no advice on a brand or model since I don't have the grade of rod you are trying to buy but I can say I would recommend something in the 7ft to 7''4' length MH fast, that's what I use and I like it. that being said I think you could spend a little less money and still get something you will like but he if you have 300 to spend go for it... I know I would!

I look at eyelet placement and prefer it being attached to the body of the bait because I believe they dive faster to their supposed running depth, the main thing for me when buying a crankbait is that I want baits that when reeled back to the boat they end up under the boat and behind you at the end of the retrieve. those are the baits that run at the maximum depth they can for the longest with the line and rod/reel set up being used, with square bills this is not so impotant to me but for mid and deep running models it is... I also like to remove the split ring and use those kvd strike king quick snaps, I think they let the bait use its full range of movement better that tying to the split ring... I also am not very fond of crankbaits that are very light, I like them to be heavy, not big and heavy just heavy for their size if that makes sense....

hands down for me is a mepps inline spinner with white feathers/silver blade and a 4 inch run of the mill grub in white or smoke hooked weightless ive caught fish on these when they wont eat anything else. oddly enough that's the only time I go to them though...

I have 2 skeete reese rods (wmssrcb70c s glass crankbait rod, wmesrjw72ch s curve jig/worm rod) and am wondering when they were made because the model numbers don't match the rods on their site. im pretty sure what the wm,sr,cb and jw mean and I think ones a yr model number or production run number but im not sure, any help would be great..