MickD

Thanks, sounds about right, would really like to know its CCS power number, ERN. Some may think I'm being picky, but I've had rods of ERN 19.8 called both MH and ML. And a 25 called M. Easy to see the problem when discussing what is "light" when the power descriptions vary this much.

How light is it? Small, accurate, digital scales on Amazon can be had for less than $15.00. I'm curious.

Butt diameter usually signifies an extra fast action with a powerful butt which does not, in my opinion, adversely affect sensitivity. In fact if sensitivity is proportional to True Natural Frequency, the chances are that rods designed this way will be more sensitive rather than less sensitive. From my testing, extra fast action blanks tend to have a higher true natural frequency. To really know what's going on with one's blanks/rods performance-wise it's a good idea to learn to measure CCS numbers, then one has the power and action objective values, and if one adds TNF, then another significant objective attribute is added. With length, weight, CCS power, CCS action, and TNF one has most of what it takes to accurately describe a blank/rod and to predict how it will perform.

I'm talking CCS power, not the fly rod rated "weight." So a 7 foot 12 CCS power rod will weigh about 3 oz total from a 1.5 oz blank and it is not sufficient in my opinion for 3 pound smallies. I don't know about 12 weight fly blanks, but other fly blanks I've measured have measured higher than their nominal rod rated "weight" by about 1 number, meaning 8's measure about 9. I can see a 12 "weight" fly blank being a good steelhead rod, as you describe. I have an NFC salmon spin rod that has numbers similar to a couple of my fly rods, but I cannot remember right now the exact numbers.

I forgot to mention that rods in the power range around 12 make good panfish rods and good rods when wanting to cast crappie sized crankbaits, around 1/8 ounce. Those small cranks work well at times for SMB, LMB, and walleyes. + crappies, bluegills, and perch.

It all depends on your definition of "quality." Is it sensitivity (ability to feel subtle strikes)? Is it ability to take abuse in the back of a pickup truck? Is it appearance? Is it lightest weight? Is it casting distance? Is it portability? Is it balance? Is it long term wear durability, not considering abuse? Is it specific technique ability? Is it versatility? Is it the brand name and reputation? Is it cork vs EVA vs carbon fiber grips? We all likely have our combination of attributes that defines quality. Two things are important to this discussion, IMO. First, you usually get more "quality" the more you pay, although as mentioned before, there comes a point where the added buck doesn't have the same level of improvement as the previous buck spent. Second, the more you can quantify (objectively) the performance attributes of a rod you like the more likely you will be able to duplicate it in the future. Learn to do your own CCS, have an accurate scale, learn to measure the TNF (True Natural Frequency). Keep records of all these data for future use. Micro guides have the problem of little clearance for knots. In their favor many argue they cast farther. Since they are lighter out where it counts, their use vs larger (heavier) guides will speed up the recovery speed of the rod, which should translate into better sensitivity and longer casts, although the line one uses may have a bigger effect on both. Of course the overall weight of the rod will be less with any lighter components.

I have used them for years, use a pair from Zenni on line. I've had very good luck with Zenni. Specifically , I bought https://www.zennioptical.com/p/pure-titanium-full-rim-frame/5237?skuId=523721 and have two pair of them. They work very well, I have gray lens.

If you're talking about the rod that tested ERN 12.15, that's a pretty low power. AA 73? I expect a 12-73 will come across as pretty whippy. I have a 12-80 that feels underpowered, but not whippy. Use this rod for Neds or stuff like that where a light wire jig is used - will get better hook sets with lighter wire jigs than with heavier wire jigs. As you feel the bite, lower the rod to get a little slack, then "quick snap" up might work better than a steady lift. I like the ACSM, but it's personal prefernce. Some have reported disliking the ACSM, so . . .

Sorry, I read your post wrong. I really don't like a skeleton seat on a spinning rod, weight savings isn't worth the poor ergonomics, IMO.

Or the skeleton seat?

The missing data on all these weights are an objective power rating. Not all "medium" power ratings are the same. How about including CCS ERN/IP numbers and then you'll know if a rod's weight is special or not. A recent blank I bought, called a drop shot blank rated medium power had an ERN of 12. Another rated medium light power had an ERN of 19. An exec of one of the biggest blank makers called an ERN of 19 "medium heavy." See the problem?

I cannot remember the exact details of these but they look typical of what I get with two thin coats of lite viscosity wrap epoxy. Often one coat does it, but often I have a thread sticker to cut off or a thin spot on top of the foot so use a second thin coat. I use little to no heat, often just holding the bottles under hot water for a minute or so and they they feel warm to the touch. I think those who use a lot of heat are making a mistake and looking for trouble. (fisheyes/sags/wavy on the long decal areas). Looks like I could have done a little better with my workmanship on wrapping. But it fishes just great.

With respect for what you are trying to accomplish, I think you are wasting time and at the same time possibly introducing problems. A thin coat of epoxy on guides that small weighs almost nothing, so all the attempts to make them lighter won't accomplish much if anything. Heating epoxy, especially multiple times, is asking for trouble. Wiping with anything is also risking problems. It's not necessary. Epoxy doesn't dry, it reacts. The two components react in a chemical reaction, so all you are doing with the alcohol on wet epoxy is possibly screwing up the chemical reaction. Then a second coat? Simply put on a single light coat of epoxy and let it be. Or a single coat (or more) of Permagloss, then let it be.

Small spiral tablet, pencil. There might be a better solution, but it's worked very well for a long time. Easy to go back to previous records.

Heating will decrease the viscosity of epoxy.

Many braids test much higher than their advertised pound test, but it has been argued that the lack of stretch contributes to a lower resistance to shock loading. It is not as simple as it seems it should be. Hitena claims its lines are very accurately specified for pound test, and I think they are.

Might be true for LMB, but not for SMB on the big water. I've had some very good times around noon. Depends more on things like the wind than the time of day.

You have to keep your bait warm. Two guys were ice fishing and one kept catching fish and the other caught nothing. the unsuccesssful one asked the other what his secret was. Nothing. He asked again. Nothing . He finally said "Come on man, tell me your secret!" The successful fisherman spit his worms into his hand and said: "You have to keep your bait warm."

This may be scientific fact, but I remember when I used to buy shrimp for smallmouth bass. If it was fresh, they loved it. If it was cooked, they wouldn't touch it. I can buy into shrimp or other salt water scents being attractive to bass. Too bad we cannmot do some user group interviews with the bass.

1 oz is a significant difference. I weighed an old Ugly Stick a couple years ago and found it was only about an oz heavier than my other similar rods. But it felt a lot heavier. Keep in mind that depending on what reels one has, it might be easier to shed a couple ounces off the system by getting lighter reels.

I still say VMC spin shots solve a lot of these problems.

One who asks this question is probably new to BC, so they should not start with braid or FC. Too many problems. Mono as recommended by others is the way to go. I like Suffix Elite in 14 pound test, and it doesn't feel stretchy at all as I used to feel Uzuri copoly was when I used it. Mono without a leader is the least problematic way to go, and it will work for all lures. You don't want FC for surface lures like poppers because it will sink and pull the lure under on the pop. Mono has about the same density as water, so it just stays where it lands and doesn't adversely affect the action of the popper type lures.

Try leader grade FC and going up to at least 10 pound test. I just came back from catching a number of LMB on drop shot using 15 pound test leader. Pretty clear water, not gin. If that doesn't work, or you want to try something that uses entirely different knots, try the VMC spin shot. You can have different pound tests above and below the hook, it helps some with line twist, and you can use any terminal rig knot you choose to tie the rig onto your leader.

No offense taken.

No need to remove old grease from a device like this. Just add whatever you have. It's not as critical as wheel bearings.