MickD

I gave it a try, have not yet figured it out. While it looks good, the improved Alberto is a piece of cake, doesn't require loose line loops to get caught in the wind, and since it works just fine, I'll stick with it. Thanks for the video.

Please clarify. PE? I'm a little dense this AM , I guess.

Looks like a good knot, only two thicknesses of leader, so should be small enough for almost any guide setup with the typical leader pound tests that we use. Will give it a try.

How about a good link to how to tie the Shin Fukae? I've searched and come up empty. thanks,

The Alberto is really just an Albright that wraps down, then wraps up, before sticking the tag through the loop. So it gains from the wrap up, but still is vulnerable, which is why I improved it.

I've done a lot of practice on many different braid to leader knots. Let me first say if you don't need to use the FG because of very small guide sizes, forget it. It was developed for heavy salt leaders and I really think it works better for those than for the pound tests we usually use. It is sensitive to coatings on the braid, and as you imply, the technique is not a piece of cake. The double uni is the easiest and probably the more reliable knot that I have used extensively. It can be a little large, so I don't use it with my micro guide rods. I use the Alberto, but my improved version of it. The Alberto is prone to fail (unravel) if the tag end doesn't go back out the leader loop in the right direction. I think I've had failures even when I've tied it right, so I improved it by tying two overhand knots tightly against the knot with the tag end of the braid. Doesn't make it any bigger, but never fails. Be sure on any knot you use to set the knot very tightly , VERY tightly, while it's wet. The Lefty Kreh knot is easy to tie, especially with shorter leaders (the whole leader has to pass through the loop formed by the finger, and that can be a bit tedious for leaders like the 20 footer mentioned above. ) It's also called by some the Seguar knot. I am so used to tying the Alberto, that I'm not changing. The Kreh knot is bigger than the Alberto but smaller than the double uni. I don't think so. Doesn't look like that to me. Look them up on line, lots of images of all the knots being considered.

I love Mongo! I remember the day that the Detroit Lions spent Thanksgiving Day in the GB Packers backfield. And Mongo was leading the way.

My comments were not based on concern for the durability of the match guides. I just personally think lower runners make more sense on rods like this. As far as getting knocked around, lower is better, imho, they are out of the way more often. But this isn't world peace. Go with what you feel is best, build it, and fish it. It will work, and you will develop opionions and skills and your next rod will be even better.

Have you considered a kit for your first build? The CRB kits come with lower, most likely lighter, running guides. https://mudhole.com/collections/kits/products/crb-66-med-light-spinning-rod-kit-is661ml

Try increasing the zoom on your display when you are getting within 50 yards or so. With my Humminbird Helix I get within a few feet every time. I don't think we can blame the govt this time.

The problem with using too "stout" guides is that they are heavier than necessary, and their weight will slow the response of a light power rod down, and cut its sensitivity. And if they are not needed, one has compromised performance needlessly. A medium-light power rod can get along nicely with just about any guides. And because you likely will use light lines, they can be small (and light). The Fuji site software uses reel sizes and line weights and types to size the guides. You can get "light duty" guides at almost any price point.

If one takes care of them he may never have to replace them. I have never replaced them exc for one reel that I sent to be super tuned. The idiot ruined a nice Calcutta 100, cost me a big chunk of money to have it rebuilt by a reputable reel servicer. Be cautious about whom you send your reels to for super tuning. (My experience was not with DVT)

First build will be a learning experience, so going with not-so-expensive components, or even a kit, makes sense. I personally use all Fuji guides for spin, and they come in pretty inexpensive options. I like the KLH series of guides, and using the KR software for the reduction guides and the two-line stress test for the runners, I always get a good rod. Don't even test cast any more. The info is at Anglersresource.net. Most factory rods fail due to poor handle/grip build process, usually skimping on epoxy. Use generous epoxy and if you use reel seat arbors, use good ones or tightly wrapped masking tape totally encapsulated with epoxy. If you do it right there never will be any water getting to the blank inside the grip/reel seat. Here is another tip that many don't know about. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html

You, like I, may have serendipity as your most effective strategy. I think both will work, but the one sent is probably a better fit.

I just read the text on Phenix ads for the Feather and the M1, and I really think they are using wine label writers for their ads. The Feather talks about Nanolite in the resin of the blank, the M1 Nanotubes. Nanolite is a ceramic used for the rings on guides. I doubt if it's used in blanks. I'm not saying the rods are bad, just saying I don't think you can learn anything from the ads. My M1, which I have used for one year, appears to be a very nice rod comparable in performance to other premium rods I have that I've made from premium blanks. The objective CCS power and action numbers are consistent with other popular rods that were described using the same subjective power and action descriptors. I always say you cannot have too many rods, so just go with what you think and if it doesn't work perfectly for your techniques, try again . It will work for something. It's not world peace; it's just a fishing rod.

With .15 mm braid and .25mm FC leader the Alberto is .3 mm and the Seguar is .45mm. Both are small enough to use with 4mm micros with this 15 pound test line/14 pound test leader combination. Since I'm used to tying the "improved" Alberto, I'll stick with it.

If you want to use O rings take your baits in to the hardware store and buy the sizes you need.

I think with some braids they "collect" water, and the wet line is thrown off the spool hitting the cross braces of the reel. If you don't want to change lines as a first step, try taking some line off the reel so it has to go farther to contact the braces. Maybe it won't. I have switched back to 14 pound Suffix Elite mono on most of my reels. I too could cast very well in the yard but not on the water. Don't get tricked into switching to FC until you become a true expert. It is harder to cast properly and when you get a backlash , it likely will break as you pick it out.

I've tried that knot, will give it another look. I now have no trouble with the Alberto, and after a little practice, it's a piece of cake to tie. It looks like the Seguar knot has three thicknesses of leader, if true, it's bigger than the Alberto.

Until I "improved" the Alberto I would occasionally have them unravel. Yes , I know about the direction the tag end has to exit the loop and I would set the knots very tightly. But still had failures. Now I leave the tag end a little long and finish the knot with two overhand knots of the tag end set tightly against the knot. It cured the failure problem and does not make the knot any larger than it already is. I use 15 -20 pound test braid, usually Suffix 832 or Hitena Pureline, with 14 pound test Hitena Paranix WT leaders. Not a good idea, IMHO. Learn the double uni knot for regular guides or the Alberto for micros. Both are easy and go through guides well. Note my comment about improving the Alberto.

When a blank weighs about 1.7 oz and the rod weighs 2.9, that leaves 1.2 for seat, guides, grips, and wraps. It might not be ideal for ergonomics. But it's your choice. I go for better ergonomics and a total weight of about 3.6.

Phenix calls the M1 I have Medium power X-fast action, and the CCS Action Angle is 78 degrees, which is about where most Xfast actions are. It's called medium power and at ERN 17.2 it is close to the ST Croix SCV70MF. If I remember right it weighs 3.6 oz with a size 17 Fuji pipe style reel seat.

I have a process that easily measures the true natural frequency of blanks and rods. While there is no objective test for sensitivity, most knowledgable rod people think that sensitivity is proportional to natural frequency of the blank. Certainly, recovery speed is proportional to natural frequency. The Phenix M1 in fact has quite a high natural frequency, higher than similar blanks that cost less and are called things like RX6 or RX7. From what I have found the more you pay for a blank the higher its natural frequency will generally be compared to cheaper blanks of the same power and action. You are getting value for your money if recovery speed is important to you.

Not familiar with the feather, but I've built a spin rod on the M1 7' 2" mxf and it's a very nice rod. No complaints. I use it for finesse, and it works fine.

https://www.nalms.org/secchidipin/monitoring-methods/the-secchi-disk/what-is-a-secchi-disk/ I just go fishing, try different lures and colors, and if I don't catch any I say "Water wasn't clear enough today." ? Seriously, like everyone says, just drop something over and watch it go down. I've had some pretty good days when I thought the water wasn't clear enough. (smallies) If it gets too clear it can be tough.