MickD

Yes, and not finishing with epoxy, which is heavier than Permagloss, although the difference is slight and the appearance is different. But, if going for the absolute lightest. . . My Point Blank 701MLF has an ERN of 19.8. Recently a person with NFC stated he was talking about an ERN of 19-21 when he mentioned MH power. So you can see the difference in interpretation when you don't use objective measures. I think my St Croix SCV70MF is less than 19, and it's called M power.

To have a rod that really doesn't make too many ergonomic compromises AND actually has what most would consider ML power (unless one uses CCS ERN or IP the power is a guessing game, open to interpretation) the rod probably will probably come in at about 3 oz. A 1.2 oz blank of 7 foot length is not going to have real ML power. I believe about 1.5-1.6 is more like it. I won't compromise ergonomics in order to achieve even 3 oz; with full size 17 reel seats I get about 3.6 for 7 foot ML or M power (premium blanks/titanium guides), and they fish comfortably all day long. Not yet mentioned are the guide wraps. They should be no longer than just past the foot of the guide and Permagloss or similar light finish will cut the weight of the wraps. It can be significant to the response of the finished rod.

At the same power level this is definitely true, has to be. Very good description of Xfast, IMHO. At the lower power levels the tip can feel a little sloppy. I really like longer rods in Xfast action. They are very versatile, casting well a larger range of lure weights.

I didn't record anything until about 6-8 years ago, and have recorded significant data from all trips since. I'm really glad I did because it really helps on getting to the right spot on the right date, and knowing what worked. Significant data are all the things I think at the time important: time started , hours fished, spots fished , techniques, lures that worked, water temp, wind, climate conditions, water clarity.

Permaglass cures from water vapor in the air, I believe. I'm not sure how it would do inside a grip. But it really isn't designed to be an adhesive, so it may not even work effectively as one.

For the life of me I cannot see how coating something that is not transparent with something that is transparent makes the whole thing transparent. I think FC coated lines are a worthless gimmick. Sort of like calling a raincoat "titanium." I'm confident I'll get corrected quickly.

Everyone has an opinion, few have data.

Green just seems to be a very effective smallie color-watermelon/red tubes and Ned, watermelon/candy tubes, Ikes Smash DT's, olive wooly buggers, one of the best smallie flies ever, I always find green works well on smallies.

No mention of Ned rig yet, should be part of your arsenal. For LMB I like Junebug, for SMB Canada Craw. For smallies be sure to have some green in everything you buy.

It is my opinion that all FC's stretch a lot more than most fishermen think. Go with the FC that fishes the best. Stretch will take care of itself.

Buy a few Rapala DT's in the depth numbers that match the depths you most likely will be fishing. If there are bluegills in the lake, get that color. The best all around color I've found is the Ike's custom color "Smash," works for everything.

Me too. Never my fault. Always the fault of the fishes. Or the water temp. Or the atmospheric pressure. Or the cloudy water. Or the clear water.

Of course. Which is why I am going to force myself this year, in the middle of a tough day, to stop fishing and think. Think about what I have not tried, what could be effective, where I have not tried, etc etc etc. We have to slow down and do some thinking to be most effective.

My son and I were fishing on a hazy warm afternoon, no sign of any weather problems, when I noticed my line not drooping into the water, but it was going up into the air then entering the water vertically. I raised my graphite rod to try to figure out what was happening, and when I raised it really high we could hear a sizzle. My son raised his and got the same thing. We took off immediately, leaving the water. In a few minutes a thunderstorm struck. We came very close to being struck by lightning. I'm sure you've seen what lightning does to graphite rods.

It's really hard to evaluate what works for others, especially considering that the power and action ratings vary so much, even within one company's product line. But from what I think I know about St Croix, if the rod's lure weight recommendations fit what you plan to cast, it should work OK. But the best thing is to try it. If it works, fine. If it doesn't , use it for another technique that is a better fit.

Keep in mind that the new Shimano reels, as with many other brands , do not have anti reverse switches any more. If you want a switch, look elsewhere.

thanks!

I use 15 or less for braid, (or Hitena 20 which casts like most 10's) 14 pound fly tippet FC for leader. I find anything less than 10# leader to be too fragile. I've not found any techique or water clarity that requires me to go lighter. I'll be looking to make sure I'm not wrong, but so far. . .

Don't go beyond 90 degrees and you won't break anything unless you've whacked it onto the boat or somehow damaged it. I don't flip fish into the boat, so I don't have that risk. Usually the most fragile rods are the highest modulus/most expensive rods. I only own two MH or H power rods and only use them for trying for the rare muskie now and then. I've never broken a rod on a fish, only by stepping on them.

When do you think your soft water season will start? I'm thinking mid April for Sag Bay.

I see you have been robbing banks again, A-Jay.

My son targets largemouth bass on a small man-made MI lake, finds them in the deepest holes, uses jigs, small jigging spoons, can see them approach the lure on the graph, then when the two lines merge you feel a very soft, subtle, bite.

Do you have ANY real information that indicates it's a copy? Suzukis have been equal to or better than the noisy-geared Yamahas for many years. Seeing lots of Suzukis in Key West these days.

I was fooling around with the Albright today, and with the 15 pound Tuff Line braid and 20 pound test FC a 10 wrap Albright slipped. It took 15 wraps to prevent slipping. I just don't trust that knot, and I've had too many "mystery" failures of the FG to trust it, too. I have not had a single unravelling or slip or any other failure with the "improved Alberto." I wrap 7 up and 7 down, then pull tightly, then two overhand knots with the braid tag. Seems to be bullet proof and is as small as anything except the FG. There are so many subtleties with the knot tying processes that we all seem to do something a little different without even knowing it. So the comment about using whatever works for you, whatever you can confidently tie right, is right on target.

Agree with Holetail, go light and layer up in cold weather. Just be sure to get a size that allows a number of layers underneath. I haven't worn my insulated coat in years. Make sure what you get is breathable.