MickD

I really like the black rubber/vinyl checks. They are not critical for size, don't cost a fortune, and if one adds a little excess wrap epoxy onto them, totally encapsulating them, a nice filet is formed over the check and the black line that shows through is very classy/handsome. Give it a try. But I agree with Spoonplugger, if you do the fit job right, you don't really need them. In fact many of the fancy aluminum expensive ones look too gaudy, IMHO.

I think those who think braid brand and design does not affect its performance need to try a new one now and then. A few years ago 4 carriers was all you could get. Now 8 is pretty normal, with Hitena Pureline using 12 above 14 pound test and Silky using 16 above 14 pound test. It's interesting that so many feel that premium flourocarbons make sense but think that premium braids don't. My personal experience is that there is a big difference in how the lines come off the spool. I have far fewer "gobs" of line coming off with Hitena than I do with some other more basic brands. I've had only one with Hitena in many years of fishing it, and that came in almost hurricane conditions. On the other hand. . .

I have only used the Pureline from Hitena and think it is the best braided line I've ever used. I use the ~ 20 pound test version, very small diameter, casts like braids much lower in pound test, lasts a long time, very trouble-free. A little pricey but worth it.

I think this Rev is more what you are looking for. https://getbitoutdoors.com/rainshadow-revip70m-sb I think the MH might be a little too much. My fav is a ML, but I think that is a little light. Rev's are very good blanks for the money.

https://getbitoutdoors.com/rainshadow-revip70mh-sb https://getbitoutdoors.com/rainshadow-immp70mh-tc https://getbitoutdoors.com/liberty-p703-usa Look at the American Tackle Bushido blanks at Lurepartsonline.com, too. Couldn't get good links to their specs. I have built Bushidos, Revelations, and Immortals, not Liberties. A revelation like you are interested in is one of my favs, very versatile.

Your question implies that what you are after is rare or doesn't exist, and that with lighter graphite one cannot get any action/power combination. Spoonplugger is right; they are all over the place. And you can get any action/power combination in graphite that you can get in glass. The difference will be in weight and response time. Tell me the weight of the lures you plan to cast and the length that you prefer and I'll find you a number of blanks. What many fail to realize is that a long X-Fast action rod is actually a short moderate action rod on a rigid stick. Think about it before rejecting the idea. At the same power level an X-Fast action rod will have a softer, less powerful tip, than a fast or moderate action rod.

Select a blank with the length you want that has a lure weight recommendation range that brackets your intended lure weights, line pound test range means nothing of importance. If you match the recommended lure range with your intended lures the rod will cast efficiently/easily since it will be loaded well on the cast. Action can be from moderate-fast to fast and will work well for most techniques.

Great suggestion, tie direct, don't use a snap, and the collection of crap at the jig should be minimized.

Another possibility when the bottom is really messy is to use drop shot. The sinker gets messed up but the lure is up away from that mess.

You can count down and swim jigs as well as dragging/hopping etc from the bottom. If using a finesse approach braid will make a big difference in being able to detect subtle bites. What jigs? Depends on the fish as well as the cover and water, different for LMB and SMB. Sounds like you are into LMB based on the weeds/water comment, so get some darker jigs (Siebert in right margin has great jigs) and trailers and try swimming them if bottom is too messy.

I have built and fished one, the 7-2 Spin M X-F. It is a fine rod, I use it for smallmouth finesse fishing. Yes, thick butt, looks like the proportions of Point Blanks. I recommend really light guides for the tip to keep it fast-guides like the Fuji titaniums. I built mine with titanium KLH 16-8-5.5m then KB/KT 4's to the end. Works fine with 15 pound braid/15 pound leader, improved Alberto knot.

Chris, I'll give you my opinion. They are quite comfortable, but so ugly (yes, I know, subjective) that I don't normally use them. I have one rod that I use that has one that I built up-locking to put the threads down below normal hand contact. I used an EVA part from Mudhole that fits that big opening that is now at the front, and it works quite well. The hand ends up holding the rod by that EVA part, and being a large diameter, it's ergonomically quite good. Mine is a soft touch, and that material didn't last well. I won a new one, very glossy and except for the shape , quite handsome. Mixed feelings about using it.

Let's get down to the nitty gritty. Does the reel work ok now or not? not smoother but it is more glassy. What's the difference?

Rapala DT series cranks, buy at least a few for each depth you think you will be fishing, probably should be using metal leaders with them because pike like them too. I would get the Ike's Custom Ink color Smash if going with only one color. For a second I would get some chartreuse or perch or Helsinki shad.

The length can be whatever you want. Longer usually gives longer casts, but if you fish tip down, length has to be considered relative to your height. You don't want the tip in the water when jerking. The action should most likely be fast, according to most fishermen's preference. The power should be such that it's lure weight recommendation is centered over the most likely weights you'll be casting. This is to get the rod to load properly for easy/effective casts.

If you want a good test for paint durability , bring them to Michigan and drop them into the current of the St. Clair River or the Detroit River. Bring your big ones.

The real challenge is to fish big water that is like a big saucer, with little to no significant depth changes. Think Lake St Clair. Think Saginaw Bay over most of its area. At some times of the year it may be easy, but not for the full open water season.

I think the problem with paint in the eye is that there is a chance that it will crack or fray/disintegrate. A crack could yield a sharp edge, but the disintegration can leave the knot loose and it could unravel. I have no data, just an opinion. I always clean them out if necessary to get a clean loop.

I'm no pro at this, but I use powder paint and finish it with either UV curing thin/hard epoxy or Loon's Hard Head. I don't use an oven at all. According to one expert I've tuned in to the key with powder paint is, as suggested earlier, to get the right temp when dipping into it. Too low and it doesn't come out glossy, but it can be "glossed" by putting it back into the flame a little. Too hot and it smokes when dipped.

Get a moderate ACTION rod of the length you like (I like 7 feet or 7'-3" for cranks) with the POWER lure recommendations for the rod about centered over the most likely lure weight you'll be using. This is to get the rod to load properly for easy casting.

Whom would they be.

Just A-Jay 10 times. The other 9 guys can just stay home.

Toxic finally mentioned weeds as structural elements that are attractive even in deep water, where there are weeds deep. I've usually found smallies out away from the weeds 10-50 yards, but weeds are definitely an attractive deep water structural element for smallies.

For that Curado I suggest a moderate action crank rod, length 7 feet or a little shorter if you prefer, power to be determined by the average weight of the cranks you most likely will be using. Try to get the recommended lure weight range to be centered over your average anticipated lure weight.

I've not fished from a kayak, so have no personal experience. But from the question it seems that the main issue is keeping a tight line when your movement is limited and the kayak itself tends to move. If this is true it would seem to me that a slower action, one that takes the rod into more deflection, (more of the rod length will be deflected making the rod more capable of keeping a tight line when the kayak moves) would be preferable. It might also argue for a longer rod than one might use when boat fishing. I think the power would be determined by the weight of the lures and other factors which don't really change due to kayak fishing. Some builders build with shorter handles/grips for kayaks.